To the north of Corfu town lies one of the busiest areas on the island. Gouvia, Limni, Dassia, Ipsos... the seaside resorts are all modelled on an identical layout, designed to appeal to a predominantly British and Scandinavian clientele, but they hardly make you want to linger around.
The rugged north-east coast of Corfu is marked by the relief of Mount Pantokrator, which juts out into the sea, and is dotted with dozens and dozens of small white pebble beaches and rocky coves, with the Albanian coast and the mainland just a stone's throw away.
This coastline, with its beautiful seascapes from Kalami to Kassiopi, attracted the writer Lawrence Durrell, an unconditional lover of the Greek islands, whose family stayed here regularly between 1935 and 1939. Since then, many others have followed in his footsteps, and the scenery is changing!
As Corfu's tourist industry continues to develop, the old harbours and fishing villages are being revamped to become a popular holiday destination. From Kalami to Kassiopi, the north-east coast of Corfu offers a good compromise between a comfortable stay and authenticity, without falling into the caricature of certain large Corfu resorts.
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The coast around Kalami
- © leoks / ShutterstockKalami, the Durrell village
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Kalami
- © Pani Garmyder / ShutterstockYou'll have to push a little further towards the slopes of Mount Pantokrator, on this rugged coastline along which a winding road winds, to reach Kalami, a former fishing village converted to tourism. It was here, from 1935, that Lawrence Durrell and his family rented a pretty white house on the water's edge, known today in Kalami as the "White House" (now a restaurant).
A travel writer and great admirer of the Greek islands, Corfu in particular, Durrell had a fine nose for detail: at the end of a calm bay lined with cypress and olive trees, it's easy to be seduced by this small resort that hasn't let itself be overtaken by the excesses of tourism. The nearby port of Kouloura, with its quayside fishermen's boats, confirms this impression!
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The little port of Kouloura
- © Calin Stan / ShutterstockAround Kalami, there are plenty of small Corfu-style beaches with white pebbles and turquoise water. The bay of Agni and its tavernas with their feet in the water, a local speciality, come to mind, as does the very pretty beach of Gialiskari. In the surrounding area, hotels and various types of accommodation are perfect for unpacking your bags for a few days and taking in the scenery.
Villa Rita & Helena
6 km from KassiopiKassiopi and its beautiful beaches
A 15-minute drive further north, Kassiopi is the next stop on Corfu's north-east coast. Its origins go back further than Kalami, and its history dates back to Greek antiquity: in the 3rd century BC, Pyrrhus, a specialist in snatch-and-grab victories, founded a port here to halt the Roman expansion, which was becoming an ever-greater threat to Greece. This did not prevent it from being the first Roman conquest of Greece, in 229 BC!
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Cassiopeia
- © Pani Garmyder / ShutterstockThe old ruined castle, from which you can enjoy a lovely view of Kassiopi, still bears witness to the port's strategic importance over the centuries. Today, the invaders have changed their origin, and are mostly British. Around the harbour, Kassiopi offers a lively seaside resort atmosphere, with its tavernas and its seafront where you can parade in the evening.
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Around Kassiopi
- © lukaszimilena / ShutterstockKassiopi is best known for the beauty of its beaches, which are scattered around the area: the small beaches of Pipito, Kanoni and Bataria on the northern tip, and especially Avlaki, further west.
This pretty bay forms the junction with the Emiritis nature reserve, a protected coastal area stretching as far as Agios Stefanos. A signposted path leads you from small beaches to rocky coves, in a setting entirely free of buildings: we're not going to deny ourselves the pleasure, as this is a first since Corfu town!
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Fatiras Studios
Located 150 metres from Kassiopi beach👉 Kalami, Kassiopi and the north-east coast of Corfu, practical information
How do I get to Corfu's north-east coast?
- By car, it's a 50-minute drive from Corfu town to Kalami. From there, it's just a 15-minute drive to Kassiopi.
- By bus, there are several daily services from Corfu town during the high season, with the green buses.
When should you stay on Corfu's north-east coast?
Kalami and especially Kassiopi are lively resorts in high season, with plenty of visitors: this is the time to enjoy the entertainment at its best. The smaller beaches, on the other hand, fill up quickly... That's why the spring and autumn seasons are ideal for staying here: everything is less crowded, so you can enjoy the surroundings to the full.
Can you visit the Durrell house in Kalami?
The White House, impossible to miss on Kalami's seafront, has now been converted into a restaurant. From the terrace on the water's edge, it's easy to see why the place caught the eye of Lawrence Durrell at the time!
Discover the Emiritis reserve at Kassiopi
A not-to-be-missed walk in the area, whether you're staying in Kalami or Kassiopi. An easy, signposted hiking trail crosses the entire reserve, providing access to a number of small beaches where you can take a dip along the way. Access is from Avlaki beach in Kassiopi, or from the small port of Agios Stefanos (3.8km of main path for a 1h30 walk).