From Kalami to Kassiopi: Corfu's north-east coast

To the north of Corfu town lies one of the busiest areas on the island. Gouvia, Limni, Dassia, Ipsos... the seaside resorts are all modelled on an identical layout, designed to appeal to a predominantly British and Scandinavian clientele, but they hardly make you want to linger around.

You'll have to push a little further towards the slopes of Mount Pantokrator, on this rugged coastline along which a winding road winds, to reach Kalami, a former fishing village converted to tourism. It was here, from 1935, that Lawrence Durrell and his family rented a pretty white house on the water's edge, known today in Kalami as the "White House" (now a restaurant).

A travel writer and great admirer of the Greek islands, Corfu in particular, Durrell had a fine nose for detail: at the end of a calm bay lined with cypress and olive trees, it's easy to be seduced by this small resort that hasn't let itself be overtaken by the excesses of tourism. The nearby port of Kouloura, with its quayside fishermen's boats, confirms this impression!

Around Kalami, there are plenty of small Corfu-style beaches with white pebbles and turquoise water. The bay of Agni and its tavernas with their feet in the water, a local speciality, come to mind, as does the very pretty beach of Gialiskari. In the surrounding area, hotels and various types of accommodation are perfect for unpacking your bags for a few days and taking in the scenery.

A 15-minute drive further north, Kassiopi is the next stop on Corfu's north-east coast. Its origins go back further than Kalami, and its history dates back to Greek antiquity: in the 3rd century BC, Pyrrhus, a specialist in snatch-and-grab victories, founded a port here to halt the Roman expansion, which was becoming an ever-greater threat to Greece. This did not prevent it from being the first Roman conquest of Greece, in 229 BC!

The old ruined castle, from which you can enjoy a lovely view of Kassiopi, still bears witness to the port's strategic importance over the centuries. Today, the invaders have changed their origin, and are mostly British. Around the harbour, Kassiopi offers a lively seaside resort atmosphere, with its tavernas and its seafront where you can parade in the evening.

Kassiopi is best known for the beauty of its beaches, which are scattered around the area: the small beaches of Pipito, Kanoni and Bataria on the northern tip, and especially Avlaki, further west.

This pretty bay forms the junction with the Emiritis nature reserve, a protected coastal area stretching as far as Agios Stefanos. A signposted path leads you from small beaches to rocky coves, in a setting entirely free of buildings: we're not going to deny ourselves the pleasure, as this is a first since Corfu town!