It may seem surprising in view of the concrete development of some of the Costa Brava's seaside resorts, but there was a time when this coast was literally wild, dotted with small fishing villages with dry-stone houses. It was this setting that many artists fell in love with between the wars, foremost among them the painter Marc Chagall, who established his summer quarters in Tossa de Mar in the 1930s. Other artists, such as the writer Georges Bataille and the surrealist André Masson, would follow, giving this stretch of beach in the shade of the pines a reputation for avant-garde protest on the eve of the Spanish Civil War, which broke out in 1936.
One of the most famous resorts on the Costa Brava, Tossa de Mar is, in many ways, representative of this 'wild coast' of Catalonia.
On one side, the ramparts of the Vila Vella, the old town, enclose a historic centre full of character, from which you can dominate the infinite blue of the Mediterranean: an exceptional setting, the source of Tossa's success with many artists, and through the 7th art. On the other, the lower town with its modern buildings and little charm, archetypal of the tourist development of the Costa Brava in the 70s. Fortunately, the picture is completed by the area around Tossa de Mar, where the original charms of the Costa Brava return to the fore: coves untouched by concrete, mountain folds criss-crossed by footpaths, fragrant forests filled with Mediterranean species... all the ingredients for a very pleasant programme.
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Beach and old town of Tossa de Mar
- © Kite_rin / ShutterstockTossa de Mar, popular with artists
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The fortress of Tossa de Mar, under a blazing sky. Boerescu
- © Boerescu / ShutterstockBut it wasn't long before Tossa de Mar became a household name. In 1950, the old town was the setting for a landmark film: Albert Lewin's Pandora and the Flying Dutchman. This future classic was an immediate success, thanks in particular to the performance of its big star, Ava Gardner. Set in the narrow streets of the Vila Vella, Tossa de Mar's reputation on the international scene was already established.
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Ava Gardner statue in the Old Town
- © engineervoshkin / ShutterstockOld town and lower town, the two faces of Tossa de Mar
Understanding the urban layout of Tossa de Mar is not rocket science: on the heights overlooking the small bay, the Vila Vella, or old town, remains the resort's most endearing district. With its ancient houses, sloping streets, ruined Gothic church, ramparts and 12th-century towers still watching over the beach and the open sea, it's a picture postcard setting in which to savour every moment. If you love beautiful sunsets, this is the place to be!
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Vila Vella from the air
- © Marc Gascons / ShutterstockBelow the Vila Vella, the historic heart of Tossa, is the lower town, with its modern 70s-style architecture: less popular aesthetically speaking, but the focus of all the action in Tossa de Mar, the seaside resort.
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The old ramparts
- © kavalenkava / ShutterstockSnuggled up against the platja Gran, the main beach, which is very lively in season, this is where you'll find most of the restaurants, the nightlife, the shops, the leisure facilities and, of course, the hotels.
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Windsor Hotel
You'll be able to stay in a beautiful establishment full of charm!Dreamy coves and hiking trails: around Tossa de Mar
When it comes down to it, you come to Tossa de Mar partly for the resort itself, but mainly for its immediate surroundings, which are the epitome of what the Costa Brava has to offer. You can already count on the sun and the blue sea: a good start.
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A small cove accessible by sea
- © kavalenkau / ShutterstockThen, you have to leave the resort to find the most beautiful spots: all along the coast, to the north and south, a succession of small sandy inlets and rocky coves delight lovers of crystal-clear waters and peace and quiet (which varies according to the season!). A splendid setting that inspires kayaking, scuba diving and boat trips.
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Quiet beach around Tossa de Mar
- © Manel Pavon - Indiketa / ShutterstockThere are some of the most beautiful beaches and coves around Tossa de Mar to suit everyone, from cala Bona, cala Pola and cala Giverola in the north, to cala Llevado in the south. The less-frequented spots are best reached by kayak!
Back on land: from the shore, the forest dominates the landscape around Tossa de Mar, covering the mountainous slopes of the Costa Brava. Hiking enthusiasts won't want to miss the opportunity to follow the coastal path to the coves, or to spice things up with the Puig de Cadiretes, or the climb to Sant Grau...
Practical information
Having your own car is ideal for exploring the region, but beware of parking problems in summer...
Buses run to Tossa de Mar from Blanes and Girona train stations. There are also links from Barcelona and from/to the nearby resorts of Lloret de Mar and Sant Feliu de Guixols.
When to come to Tossa de Mar
- Tossa de Mar and its beaches are very popular in summer. It's high season, prices are up, and the entertainment is at its peak.
- In spring and autumn, the weather is fine, but less crowded. May and October are two very pleasant months.
- From November to March, you can visit Tossa in the calm of the off-season, with fine days in winter, but many addresses closed.
Activities in Tossa de Mar: address book
- Kayak hire: there are several kayak hire companies in Tossa de Mar, including Kayaks Nicolau.
- Scuba diving: there are several diving clubs in the centre of Tossa de Mar, including Tossasub.
- By boat: several agencies offer excursions between the Costa Brava resorts, such as Defi Jet Boats, or excursions such as Fondo Cristal. Half-day or full-day boat hire is also available.
- Hiking: maps of signposted trails are available from the Tossa de Mar tourist office, av. del Pelegrí, 25 - Edifici La Nau.