Tossa de Mar, two sides of the Costa Brava

It may seem surprising in view of the concrete development of some of the Costa Brava's seaside resorts, but there was a time when this coast was literally wild, dotted with small fishing villages with dry-stone houses. It was this setting that many artists fell in love with between the wars, foremost among them the painter Marc Chagall, who established his summer quarters in Tossa de Mar in the 1930s. Other artists, such as the writer Georges Bataille and the surrealist André Masson, would follow, giving this stretch of beach in the shade of the pines a reputation for avant-garde protest on the eve of the Spanish Civil War, which broke out in 1936.

But it wasn't long before Tossa de Mar became a household name. In 1950, the old town was the setting for a landmark film: Albert Lewin's Pandora and the Flying Dutchman. This future classic was an immediate success, thanks in particular to the performance of its big star, Ava Gardner. Set in the narrow streets of the Vila Vella, Tossa de Mar's reputation on the international scene was already established.

Understanding the urban layout of Tossa de Mar is not rocket science: on the heights overlooking the small bay, the Vila Vella, or old town, remains the resort's most endearing district. With its ancient houses, sloping streets, ruined Gothic church, ramparts and 12th-century towers still watching over the beach and the open sea, it's a picture postcard setting in which to savour every moment. If you love beautiful sunsets, this is the place to be!

Below the Vila Vella, the historic heart of Tossa, is the lower town, with its modern 70s-style architecture: less popular aesthetically speaking, but the focus of all the action in Tossa de Mar, the seaside resort.

Snuggled up against the platja Gran, the main beach, which is very lively in season, this is where you'll find most of the restaurants, the nightlife, the shops, the leisure facilities and, of course, the hotels.

When it comes down to it, you come to Tossa de Mar partly for the resort itself, but mainly for its immediate surroundings, which are the epitome of what the Costa Brava has to offer. You can already count on the sun and the blue sea: a good start.

Then, you have to leave the resort to find the most beautiful spots: all along the coast, to the north and south, a succession of small sandy inlets and rocky coves delight lovers of crystal-clear waters and peace and quiet (which varies according to the season!). A splendid setting that inspires kayaking, scuba diving and boat trips.

There are some of the most beautiful beaches and coves around Tossa de Mar to suit everyone, from cala Bona, cala Pola and cala Giverola in the north, to cala Llevado in the south. The less-frequented spots are best reached by kayak!

Back on land: from the shore, the forest dominates the landscape around Tossa de Mar, covering the mountainous slopes of the Costa Brava. Hiking enthusiasts won't want to miss the opportunity to follow the coastal path to the coves, or to spice things up with the Puig de Cadiretes, or the climb to Sant Grau...