L'Escala: beach, nature and archaeology on the Costa Brava

Like many other seaside resorts on the Costa Brava, L'Escala is also an old fishing village. Its great speciality is a testament to its past: anchovies, which are omnipresent here, are reputed to be the best in the region and have a protected designation of origin - and even a museum! Today, L'Escala has completed its metamorphosis. Its architecture has changed, and so has its atmosphere: lively and family-friendly, L'Escala lives on the time of the Costa Brava, which is very busy in summer and very quiet in winter. Sun, beach, sea outings, kayaking - the great classics of the region are all here. However, it would be a mistake to limit L'Escala's activities to its seafront. Around the resort, the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà nature park invites hiking, mountain biking and birdwatching enthusiasts to get out in the fresh air, while lovers of old buildings can visit the nearby ruins of Empuries, dating back to the Greco-Roman period...

L'Escala and Cala Montgo

- © Altitude Drone / Shutterstock

L'Escala, a charming Costa Brava resort

If there's one family-friendly resort on the Costa Brava, it's L'Escala. A small town with a year-round population of 10,000, it has everything you need for a basic holiday, as well as pretty beaches that are easy for youngsters to swim in.

L’Escala

- © Gordon Bell / Shutterstock

Just think of the charming Cala Montgo, or further afield, the beach at Moll Grec, on the way to Sant Marti d'Empuries, with its calm, shallow waters. Looking for a sense of adventure? Boat or kayak trips are available to discover the beautiful rocky coastline between the cliffs of L'Escala and L'Estartit, further south.

Cala Montgo

- © Ivan Marc / Shutterstock

Another must-see in L'Escala is the anchovy factory, a local speciality since ancient times! Salted and carefully prepared, they are quite simply the best on the Costa Brava. To find out everything you need to know about fishing and salting these little fish, visit the Anchovy and Salt Museum.

Practical information

🚌 How do I get there?

Bus links from Figueres, Girona or Barcelona. By car, for total freedom of movement.

Visit the Anchovy and Salt Museum:

  • Address: Museu de l'Anxova i de la Sal, Av. Francesc Macià, 1
  • Opening times: 15 March to 15 October, Tuesdays to Sundays 10am-1pm, 5pm-8pm (closed Sunday afternoon) - 16 October to 14 March, Tuesdays to Sundays 10am-1pm, and Fridays and Saturdays 5pm-8pm
  • Admission: €3, concessions 1.5€

👛 Where can you buy L'Escala anchovies?

Factory visits by prior arrangement. Five factories in total, including:

  • Carrol Serrats
  • Anxoves de l'Escala
Hostalillo Hotel Costa Brava
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Empúries, a journey back in time

Just outside L'Escala, one of the Costa Brava's major archaeological sites faces the sea: the ancient port of Empúries is thought to have been founded in the 6th century BC by Phocaean sailors, the Greeks who also founded Massilia (Marseilles)!

Empúries

- © puyalroyo / Shutterstock

On the shores of the Bay of Roses, the Greek colony thrived for a long time on trade (Empúries comes from the word market), before the Romans took over in the 3rd century BC. The current site, unearthed in 1908, is splendid: not only for the ruins, which hint at the scale of its ancient development, but also (and above all) for its location on the Mediterranean coast, with the beach just a stone's throw away to round off the visit. It would be a shame to miss out!

Tour of the seaside site

- © Quintanilla / Shutterstock

Empúries site

📍Address:

Puig i Cadafalch s/n, 17130 L'Escala

🚌How do I get there?

On foot along the coastal path, by bike or by car.

⏰Hours:

  • June-September: daily, 10am to 8pm
  • October-November and February-May: daily, 10am-6pm
  • November-February: daily, 10am-5pm

👛Prices:

  • Full price: €6
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Aiguamolls de l'Empordà Natural Park, a breath of fresh air

The Aiguamolls de l'Empordà Nature Park lies at the head of the Bay of Roses, north of L'Escala. This wetland area, with its mix of meadows, marshes and ponds, is completely inaccessible to cars, making it a bird paradise where birdwatchers can enjoy beautiful walks.

Aiguamolls Natural Park landscape

- © Wirestock Creators / Shutterstock

There are several ways to explore the Aiguamolls Nature Park: on foot, following the reserve's signposted paths dotted with birdwatching posts, or by mountain bike, which is great for covering longer distances. The information centre is located in El Cortalet, halfway between Sant Pere Pescador and Castelló d'Empúries, and even offers guided outings.

Sant Martí d'Empúries beach

- © Scp photography / Shutterstock

Finally, the whole of the bay from Roses to L'Escala forms an immense sandy beach, where you can always find a quiet or even wild spot, or one that is more popular, like Sant Martí d'Empúries.

📍Access:

Via the El Cortalet information centre on the Castello d'Empuries road. Maps available.

⏰Hours:

  • March-October: daily, 9am-6.30pm.
  • November-December: daily, 9am-5.30pm
  • January-February: daily, 9am-4pm

When is the best time to watch migratory birds?

  • March to May
  • August to October
by Jude JONES
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