Walking in the footsteps of the Washoes Indians

From time immemorial, time has woven a web of trails around Lake Tahoe. The Washoes Indians used them to hunt and now thousands of walkers follow them in all directions, all year round. If you want to get away from the lake, there's only the mountain. And so it is with the Sierra Nevada.

The Tahoe Rim Trail, one of the most beautiful loops on the West Coast.

- © Kit Leong / 123RF

As you will have realised, this is not a lakeside walk, but a mountain hike. So here, hiking means going up and down. Which means you need to be in good physical shape, and be an experienced hiker. This adventure will require proper preparation, at least a reference map, following the signs and keeping in visual contact with the lake, the best way to never get lost. And if you've opted for a route that requires more than a day in the wilderness, hiking will also mean camping.

The Tahoe Rim Trail runs all around the lake for 265 km. It's quite a hike, so you can choose to do part of it or all of it. Either way, you'll need to prepare seriously first.

The key word: preparation

You can choose to do the whole Tahoe Rim Trail or at least a dozen other smaller loops around the lake.

You can also choose to do only the part of the Tahoe Rim Trail that coincides with the Pacific Crest Trail, the famous trail that runs from Mexico to Canada. 4,240 km! The 1st is included in the 2nd, west of the lake.

In addition, there are two golden rules that should always be followed to the letter: always hike in pairs, and always tell someone you're going hiking, stating where you'll be going and how long you plan to be away.

Walk the Tahoe Rim Trail on the heights of the lake

- © Haveseen / 123RF

If you have the level of the TRT (as the Tahoe Rim Trail is known), then you're in for 10 to 15 days of hiking! As far as preparation is concerned, take the time to define with your fellow hikers your starting point (which will often depend on the ability to park your car while you're away), the stages you'll allow yourself (often depending on the level of the group). And food and water refreshment points. We're not joking about these important matters. Obviously, you'll need to be well equipped for walking and camping.

There's also the question of bears to consider, for yourself and for your parked car (if you're not leaving from your hotel). We strongly advise you not to leave anything edible in your car, or even products that bears might interpret as such: no cosmetic creams, suntan lotion, toothpaste, etc. For your hike, you can buy a bear box and put your food in it, but this equipment is a bit heavy. This is why most hikers only carry one on the sections where it is compulsory. Find out more.

Practical info

Bear Vault sells 2 models of bear box:

  • the BV500 with a capacity of 11.5 l (700ci) for a weight > 1 kg.
  • the BV450 with a capacity of 7.2 l (440ci) for a weight < 1 kg.

Useful if you want to sleep soundly!

© KPIX CBS SF Bay Area

The famous Tahoe Rim Trail marker, on posts, ravines and trees.

- © GirlOnTheRun / Shutterstock

That said, the question of foodstuffs is now dealt with by many in a modern way, with handy hermetically-sealed bags sold in shops, if your route doesn't allow you to buy supplies in the shops.

In this chapter of preparation, there is also the administrative issue of permits, because the American state has its own rules (different from French rules), and is very particular. The rangers are on the lookout.

You will also need a permit to access the national parks if you are crossing one. You should also be aware that you won't be able to build a fire, or even light a small gas stove, without a fire permit, which you can apply for online here.

Practical information

To sum up, you'll need

  • a thru-hiking permit

  • a permit to camp in the Desolation Wilderness.

  • a fire permit to be requested from https://permit.preventwildfiresca.org/

The Desolation Wilderness area, where you'll need a camping permit.

- © Madhug36 / 123RF

The Tahoe Rim Trail

If you've opted for this hike in its entirety, it's because you're a regular hiker, you're both fit and hardy, and climbing isn't a problem for you. But it's probably at the campsite that you'll need to pay particular attention, first to the weather and then to provisioning.

We recommend that you leave in fine weather, between 15 June and the end of September. Otherwise, you run the risk of finding snow in the heights. You are, of course, in a mountainous area, above 1900 m, and even in summer, the temperature rarely exceeds 15°C in the morning. Be aware that the weather can change easily and that there is a risk of storms. Nights can be chilly, or even downright cold, which you should be prepared for by bringing warm clothes to sleep in and appropriate blankets and/or sleeping bags. Finally, violent winds are commonplace in both summer and winter. It's best to be well covered up, as this will hamper your ability to carry less useful equipment.

The Tahoe Rim Trail promises sport.

- © wirestock / 123RF

If you follow the loop itself, you won't find any accommodation, so you'll have to camp. If you stray from the loop, you will find places to get supplies, but it's better to take water and food with you for several days, to avoid making things harder for yourself.

Practical info

For further information: https://tahoerimtrail.org/

The Tahoe Rim Trail generally starts at Tahoe City, Incline, South Lake Tahoe, Echo Lake or Kingsbury Grade.

If you're leaving from Tahoe City, we recommend that you finish this 1st stage at Watson Lake Campground, which has a legal and free reception area for you and your equipment. Fires are only permitted in metalrings, which you should be able to find on site. Bear boxes are compulsory.

Generally speaking, you can punctuate your stages with campgrounds, which is undeniably more pleasant and practical: Mount Rose campground, Marlette Peak campground, Luther Pass campground, etc.

Finally, you should be aware that you will often find yourself on the side of a gully with no protection whatsoever.

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© Fabio Formaggio / 123RF
by Jude JONES
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