Spending the night in a refuge

If you are trekking for several days, you can bivouac in a tent or under the stars if you are brave, or spend the night in a refuge.

Spending the night in a refuge is also an experience you can enjoy without having to spend a week hiking. Spending a night in a refuge is a moment of simplicity in a rather basic place, without all the comforts of your chalet in the resort or your hotel club, a little sobriety in a world of opulence. The refuges around Les Arcs are manned in summer, so you can sleep in beds with sheets and blankets, have an evening meal and breakfast, while in winter you can still take shelter and even sleep there, but there will be no heating, electricity or water.

Un refuge en pleine montagne

- © HUANG Zheng / Shutterstock

What is a mountain refuge?

A refuge is a fairly isolated type of high altitude accommodation. It is generally only accessible on foot (or by vehicle for the warden during part of the year, which allows him to stock up on supplies).

A refuge is a place where hikers and mountain enthusiasts can live and meet, offering a convivial experience of living in a community for a night.

Refuges can be either manned or unmanned. In general, they are manned in spring and summer and unmanned the rest of the year.

The wardens are in charge of running the refuge and very often prepare the meals. They are also there to teach you about the values of the mountains and to make you aware of the need to keep the area as unspoilt as possible.

Why sleep in a mountain refuge?

If you're hiking in the mountains and really want to enjoy nature over longer distances, it's not always possible to loop back to the resort in the evening. A night in the mountains is essential, and you have two options: bivouac or a night in a refuge.

These are completely different experiences, both with their advantages and disadvantages.

Bivouacking means sleeping as close to nature as possible, because you'll be sleeping in a tent and waking up to a breathtaking view when you unzip in the early hours of the morning.

But bivouacking also means carrying a tent and everything you need to sleep (sleeping bag, mattress, etc.) for the duration of the hike, as well as all the equipment you need to feed yourself and cook your food.

Sleeping in a refuge means sleeping as close to nature as possible, keeping warm, avoiding the rain and carrying a much lighter rucksack. There's nothing to stop you getting out very early and sitting on the grass to admire the sunrise. Breakfast will be waiting for you shortly afterwards, and you won't need to fold up your tent before setting off again.

How does a mountain refuge work?

Some refuges are never manned and will just provide you with a roof over your head and no other services. However, most refuges are manned for part of the year.

When refuges are manned during the summer months, it is highly advisable to book before you set off on your hike. A refuge will rarely turn you away, but you should be aware that it is possible, and if it is full, you will have a small place to sleep, sheltered on the ground, but not much more comfort.

If you arrive late in the evening or cancel, it is very important to inform the warden.

All refuges are pretty much the same. They have a living room where you can have a warm meal in the evening, dormitories with beds and an outdoor area with tables and chairs that you can even use if you're just passing through for a picnic.

The refuges have toilets, often dry, and some have showers (sometimes hot).

Some refuges offer half-board with a single menu. There are also picnic rooms where you can eat what you have brought yourself.

In general, you'll have to take your own rubbish back to the station, so be sure to pack it in.

Electricity is often supplied by solar panels, and is therefore limited. So it's not always possible to recharge your phone. It's best to bring a back-up battery.

Three refuges around Les Arcs

Le Refuge Robert Blanc

- © HUANG Zheng / Shutterstock

The refuge is named after the co-founder of Les Arcs who always wanted to build one at the foot of the Aiguille des Glaciers. Sadly, Robert Blanc was swept away by an avalanche before it could be opened.

To get there, start from Les Lanchettes (access by car or, even better, by shuttle bus). You can already see the refuge from the car park, but it will still take you 2hrs 15mins and 780m of ascent to reach it. This hike is best suited to experienced hikers.

Map with directions to the refuge.

Practical information

Opening dates :

Late May to early September

Booking is compulsory.

👛 Prices:

Half-board:

  • Adults €50
  • Under 18s: €45
  • Under 12s: €40

Single night: €25

Bed linen hire required: €3

Tourist tax: €0.88 per person per day.

Payment only in cash.

There is no drinking water, and bottled water is sold for €4.70 per 1.5 litres.

Refuge website: https://refugerobertblanc.fr/

The Mont-Pourri Refuge at 2374m

© Refuge du Mont Pourri / Youtube

The refuge belongs to the Club Alpin Français de Chambéry and is right in the heart of the Vanoise massif. Ideal for families, you can discover a wealth of flora and fauna.

You can get there from Les Lanches (Peisey-Nancroix) in 2 or 3 hours' walk, depending on the route, or from Les Arcs 2000 (via the ski lifts) in 1 to 2 and a half hours' walk.

Practical information

Opening dates :

From mid-June to mid-September.

Booking is compulsory.

👛 Prices:

Half-board:

  • Adults €49.40
  • Under 18s: €42, €37 if accompanied by an adult
  • Under 8s: €21

Overnight stay only: free for under-8s, €11 for under-18s accompanied by an adult, €16 for under-18s alone and €20.90 for adults.

Gas charge: €2

Payment in cash, cheques and holiday vouchers

Refuge website: http://www.refuge-mont-pourri.fr/fr/

The Refuge de Rosuel at 1547m

The big advantage of the Refuge de Rosuel is undoubtedly its accessibility, as you can reach it by car. It's the ideal refuge to try out a night in a hut without hiking for hours beforehand. It's also perfect for a break during a day's hiking.

Practical information

Opening dates :

June to September

👛 Prices:

Half-board:

  • Adults €47.50
  • Under 18s: €38
  • Under 8s: €22

Overnight stay only: €8 for under-8s, €9 for under-18s and €18.50 for adults.

Sheet, bag and towel hire: €2

Payment in cash, cheques and holiday vouchers

Refuge website: https://refuge-rosuel.vanoise.com/

by Jude JONES
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