Canyon de Chelly, a national monument since 1931

In the vast red desert landscape of Arizona, in the same state as the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley, there is an unknown canyon comparable to these two famous national parks, both in terms of beauty and splendour. Canyon De Chelly National Monument, a protected natural area in Apache County, was established as a national monument in 1931. This natural gem is undoubtedly a majestic place, with its two sandstone walls (Muerto Canyon and Monument Canyon) forming imposing cliffs. As well as its scenery, the canyon is home to ancient buildings, ruins of the Navajo people and preserves a piece of ancient history. Canyon de Chelly is owned and operated by the Navajo Nation and the indigenous people who live there. So, before a visit, planning is necessary to respect the rules and get the most out of the breathtaking scenery.

Canyon de Chelly is located in northern Arizona.

- © Paul Brady Photography / Shutterstock

History of canyon de Chelly

The etymology of the name Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "shay") is derived from the Navajo word tseg, which means "rocky canyon" or "in a canyon". Spanish explorers and government officials began using the word "Chelly" to reproduce the Navajo word in the early 1800s.

This site splits into two canyons that join to form a "Y".

- © Jacopo Batisti / Shutterstock

What is Canyon de Chelly, often overlooked by the Grand Canyon or Monument Valley? This human-sized site is divided into two canyons that meet to form a "Y". At the intersection, you'll find the Visitor Centre, where you can join either North Rim Drive or South Rim Drive.

As soon as you enter the heart of this canyon, you are amazed by its singular beauty and the calm that reigns there. Set in an infinite desert, Navajo farmers still occupy these valleys and its oasis carved out of the river.

Light shines on the cliffs of Canyon de Chelly.

- © Dennis Swena / Shutterstock

The people of the Canyon

In the past, this area was inhabited by the Anasazi until 1300, then by the Navajo from 1700. The people took advantage of the rich soil to grow crops and herd cattle. Today, the cliffs have preserved traces of their culture, notably pictograms and petroglyphs.

To preserve its archaeological heritage, Canyon de Chelly became a national monument in 1931. Although administered by the US National Park Service, the canyon belongs to the Navajos and is under the jurisdiction of the Bureau of Indian Affairs.

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This natural wonder is protected by the Navajo, who do not allow excursions inside the canyon except on a guided tour (strictly organised by them). The only exception is the White House Ruins Trail, which leads to the only Anasazi ruins that can be visited for free. It is also the only point where you can access the bottom of the canyon. It takes around 40 minutes to descend and a good hour to climb up. The steep path is magnificent, and at the end there is a view of the ruins.

Le parc national du Canyon de Chelly en Arizona en automne

- © Steve Byland / Shutterstock

You can also explore along the rim of the canyon, where there are a series of spectacular views stretching along South Rim Drive and North Rim Drive. The other option is to book tours with Navajo guides who will accompany you into the depths of the canyon. Tours are available by car, on horseback or on foot.

Several viewpoints are scattered throughout the canyon and are a real treat for travellers and photographers alike. On the North Rim road, the first few hours are ideal for taking photos, particularly at Antelope House Overlook. In the south, seven observation points offer sumptuous photos in soft, colourful light.

The ancient dwellings of canyon de Chelly

- © Philip Bird LRPS CPAGB / Shutterstock

The monolithic Spider Rock is the icing on the cake. It rises 244 metres above the canyon floor. From the car park, a short path leads to beautiful views of rock formations.

Here are a few sites not to be missed:

  • The junction above the 2 main canyons.

  • View of the White House, which offers a good view of other Anasazi ruins.

  • Spider Rock Overlook: a phenomenal view of twin pinnacles.

  • Cave Massacre Overlook: in 1895, around a hundred Navajo were massacred by a Spanish expedition.

  • Mummy Cave Overlook: other incredible, well-preserved Anasazi ruins.

  • Antelope House View: magnificent panoramic views.

Only one trail can be visited without the permission of a Navajo guide. This is the White House Trail, a 4km circuit on the south bank. This hiking trail leads to the remains of cliff dwellings dating back to the 1200s.

Spider Rock at Canyon de Chelly

- © jejim / Shutterstock

Did you know that? In 1969, Canyon de Chelly became the setting for the film The Mackenna Gold directed by John Lee Thompson. It starred Omar Sharif, Gregory Peck and Telly Savalas. The film tells the story of a gang of hoodlums in search of a mysterious gold mine, with a fine soundtrack by Quincy Jones. It features the wild landscapes of the American West.

Free horses in canyon de Chelly.

- © Malachi Jacobs / Shutterstock

Practical information

👛 There is no charge to enter Canyon de Chelly National Monument. The Visitor Center is open daily from 8am to 5pm (except December 25). A museum also displays specimens of rock art and tools that were used by vanished civilisations.

👉Finally, it's not uncommon to come across Indian stalls on the various viewpoints. They sell handicrafts such as jewellery, traditional pottery...

by Jude JONES
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