The island of Groix

Discovering Morbihan also means visiting one of its marvellous islands, little jewels of unspoilt nature in the middle of the ocean. Belle-île-en-mer, the absolute island star of southern Brittany, is often in the spotlight, but our hearts go out to the captivating island of Groix, which is wilder and more authentic than its sister island, retaining a unique identity in perfect harmony with nature. Situated off the coast of Lorient, its originality stems first and foremost from several geological curiosities: the Sables Blancs beach, which beyond its idyllic appearance is the only convex beach in Europe, and the Trou de l'Enfer, an impressive fault between the cliffs where the elements are unleashed, the scene of many legends.

Thanks to its privileged position on the sea routes, the area nicknamed "the pebble of Brittany" is also rich in history, as witnessed by the many megalithic monuments that remain, not forgetting the famous Viking burial site, a unique find in France. As well as the sublime landscapes and picturesque fishing villages you'll discover by bike, the island of Groix, with its lively port and annual film festival, will win you over with its simplicity and friendliness.

Sunset at Pointe des chats, island of Groix

- © Francois Hurtaud / Shutterstock

A geological mystery

Rocky coast, island of Groix

- © Pascale Gueret / Shutterstock

Part of Europe's Natura 2000 network of protected natural areas, the island of Groix is a special research area for geologists. Indeed, its appearance on the ocean is in itself a mystery, since the very rare rock that makes it up is absent from the mainland. It is a mixture of red garnet and blue glaucophane, a stone found only... in Greenland. This curiosity, which fascinates scientists, has yet to be explained. Calling all budding geologists!

Getting to the island of Groix

The crossing to Garnet Island starts from Lorient harbour. From Port-Louis or Lorient La Base, the shipping company Escal'Ouest offers return crossings from April to September at €30 for the full adult fare, €18 for the teen fare (12-18 years) and €15 for the child fare. The crossing takes around 40 minutes. Bicycles are not allowed on board. However, pets are allowed.

Port Tudy, Groix Island

- © Gregory Valle / Shutterstock

Compagnie Océane also serves Port Tudy in Groix. The adult single fare is €17.50 and the child fare is €11. Please note that prices may vary from low to high season.

The journey begins as soon as you cross! Take advantage of this cruise in Lorient's harbour to admire the incessant ballet of boats, the imposing silhouette of the former submarine base and the majestic citadel of Port-Louis.

Getting around the island of Groix

Forget the car. On the island of Groix, the bicycle is king! So much so, in fact, that you won't find a single traffic light around. Hiring a bike is cheap and environmentally friendly, and the best way to enjoy all the beauty of the island while breathing in the sea air. Whether it's a mountain bike for sporty types, a tandem bike for lovers or an electric bike for those who want to make the least effort, you're sure to find the perfect vehicle at one of the island's hire services. In Port-Tudy, you'll find Bikini Bike and Coconuts Location, both open all year round.

Flowery beach on the island of Groix

- © JEAN DEFRANCE / Shutterstock

There are 40km of authorised footpaths for you to explore at your own pace, although please note that the coastal paths are for pedestrians only.

The other star activity on the island of Groix is, of course, hiking. The island is criss-crossed by 3 signposted walking trails, each between 10 and 14 km long, so you can discover all the most beautiful natural and heritage sites on Groix at your leisure.

Port Tudy

Port-Tudy, isla de Groix

- © Pascale Gueret / Shutterstock

A must for visitors and a vital link with the mainland, Port Tudy is the beating heart of the island of Groix. With the comings and goings of boats and musicians playing on café terraces in summer, this charming little marina is home to almost all the island's shops. It's the ideal place to stop off for a drink before exploring the countryside around Groisillon.

If you're looking for a drink, you've come to the right place. Head to Ti Beudeff, a legendary bistro frequented by sailors who meet there to share their sea stories over a glass of rum. Here, people talk loudly, sing sea shanties and tap their feet to Celtic music, the only music allowed in the establishment. Beware of those who dare beg for the latest Beyonce. Ti Beudeff also houses the La Morgann restaurant in its attic, serving traditional and little-known Breton dishes (starter-main course or main course-dessert for €22).

Streets of Port-Tudy, Island of Groix

- © Pascale Gueret / Shutterstock

For a good, inexpensive and authentic crêperie, go to Chez Sandrine. On the menu: original sardine-based galettes, salted butter caramel to die for, in a cosy fisherman's cottage. It's the essence of Brittany!

As you wander through the hilly, flower-filled streets, you can admire the superb shipowners' houses with their colourful facades and the amazing metal tuna that has replaced the traditional cockerel on the church tower. This emblem is a reminder of Groix's past, which in the 19th century owed its prosperity to tuna fishing.

One of the highlights of Port Tudy is its cinema, whose old-fashioned charm and high-quality family programme make it a delight to watch on rainy afternoons. Every year at the end of August, it plays host to the Festival International du Film Insulaire de Groix (FIFIG), a unique cultural event that showcases island lifestyles from around the world in a joyous and infectious atmosphere, with a host of musicians and visual artists taking over the town of Saint-Tudy. A cinematic Odyssey not to be missed!

Must-sees on the island of Groix :

Vista aérea de Plage des Grands sables, Ile de Groix

- © Pascale Gueret / Shutterstock

Under the pebbles, the beach! And what a beach it is! To the west of Port Tudy, you'll find the marvellous cove of de Poulziorec, nicknamed 'Plage de Tahiti'. The water may not be as warm as in Polynesia, but its transparent blue colour is a perfect illusion.

And the exotic adventure doesn't stop there. The stretch of convex white sand (a unique phenomenon in Europe!) against a backdrop of translucent water that forms the Grands Sables beach, conjures up a Caribbean imagination on the Breton island. It's as if the rum-laden cargo ships had brought a piece of Martinique back with them. This air of paradise is reinforced by the geographical position of the site, sheltered from the winds, which in summer makes swimming simply idyllic. Plage des grands sables is a 15-minute cycle ride from Port-Tudy.

Vista aérea de Plage des Grands sables, Ile de Groix

- © Francois Hurtaud / Shutterstock

Not far from the great sands, the red sandy beach, named after the garnet that colours the rocks of Groix, is also an idyllic little cove, sheltered from the wind and a great place to cool off in summer.

The island of Groix abounds with secluded coves nestling between cliffs and small inlets of breathtaking beauty. Let yourself be carried away by the chance paths to discover these little corners of paradise.

Wild cove on the island of Groix

- © Pierre-Alexandre Saumon / Shutterstock

An old fishing village in the south of the island, the village of Locmaria charms us with its flower-covered cottages in spring, its long beach and the lovely paradise-like coves in the surrounding area. The Stank cove is particularly pretty, with its immaculate sand contrasting with the colours of the heather. Nearby is the famous tomb of a Viking chieftain who was buried there with his drakkar in the year 900. Unfortunately, the grave goods have been placed in the Museum of National Antiquities and all that remains is a large hole overgrown with weeds. The beauty of the landscape is a great consolation.

Sunset on the beach of Locmaria, island of Groix

- © Francois Hurtaud / Shutterstock

Still on the south coast, you'll find one of Groix's most impressive natural phenomena: the Hole of Hell. This gigantic fault in the rock, which gives the impression that the cliff has been split open with an axe, is surrounded by a menacing aura. It's hard not to feel dizzy as you watch the boiling waves crashing in. Legend has it that during the winter months, a man-headed sea monster resides in the devil's hole. A local bogeyman who has frightened generations of Groisillon children, he is said to have caused several shipwrecks by imitating the voices of the captains to hurry the crews to their doom. It's enough to give you the shivers!

Le Trou de l'enfer, isla de Groix

- © CELINE NAEGELEN / Shutterstock

At the western end of Groix, the Pointe de Pen Men and its emblematic lighthouse stand bravely facing the ocean. Battered by the winds in the middle of the heather, they offer one of the most sumptuous views of the island. With a range of 54km and a height of 27m, the Pen Men lighthouse is the most powerful in the whole of Morbihan. It's a particularly grandiose place to take a walk. You'll be captivated by the sight of the jagged, lichen-covered cliffs plunging into the ocean under a sky of shifting light. It's Breton beauty in its raw state.

Pointe de Pen Men, isla de Groix

- © Volker Rauch / Shutterstock
by Faustine PEREZ
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