The Ria d'Etel, between land and sea

First things first. At the entrance to the Ria d'Etel is the famous Barre d'Etel, feared by generations of sailors. The Barre d'Etel is a submarine sandbank that forms at high or low tide and moves with the winds and currents. The sea breaking over its entire length creates a striking natural spectacle, but sometimes makes the bar impassable for boats. A real nightmare for sailors, the area is rich in tales of dramatic shipwrecks, such as that of Alain Bompard's dinghy in 1958, in which 5 people perished.

The deadly Barre d'Etel still strikes fear and fascination into the hearts of visitors and old sea wolves alike. To watch the choreography of the waves colliding with the sandbar, there's no better place than the Plouhinec semaphore, which helps boats through the perilous passage and offers a breathtaking view of the immensity of the ocean. To complete the strange magic of the place, there's a long wild beach with dishevelled dunes and an old ship's graveyard nearby, which also conjures up an imaginary world full of maritime ghosts.

With a lovely terrace facing the port of Etel, the BAR TAL ER MOR restaurant serves delicious bistro-style cuisine, with no fuss and using fresh local produce. The atmosphere is friendly and the sunsets divine. This is a very popular address, so book several days in advance. Open every day except Wednesday, from 9am to 8.30pm.

With its narrow streets, colourful houses and typical fishing village atmosphere, the little town of Etel is simply delightful. Now a peaceful marina, Etel was, until the 1960s, a centre for tuna fishing and the valiant sailors who went out to sea on board the dundees, the famous sailing tuna boats, and brought back large cargoes that supplied many of the region's canning factories. This glorious past and the epic tales that accompany it still hold a special place in the hearts of the locals. If you happen to be in Etel on 31 July, don't miss the Tuna Festival, a celebration of Etel's fishing industry, accompanied by bagpipes. On the programme: entertainment, concerts and, of course, tuna in all its forms.

To find out more about the great adventure of the people of the sea, visit the wonderful Musée des thoniers. Authentic and very well documented, the exhibitions immerse you in the harsh history of the fishermen, made up of drama and grandeur, a fascinating and very moving maritime epic. The museum is open all year round from 2pm to 6pm and from 10am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm in July and August. 6 euros full price, 3.50 euros for 8-12 year olds and free for under-8s.

From Etel, you'll find a number of starting points for walks to discover the magnificent surrounding countryside. For more information, contact the Etel Tourist Office.

It's hard to miss the Bistrot à thon and its flashy yellow and green façade, a veritable institution in Etel. Whether tartar or stewed, it's no surprise that tuna is served here in a variety of sauces, all in a very pleasant "back from the sea" atmosphere.

One of Etel's best addresses is the friendly MAURICETTE crêperie/tea room, which also serves as a boutique for lovers of beautiful objects. You can enjoy quality crêpes in a delightful flower-filled courtyard. Open Thursday to Tuesday from 12pm to 10pm.

Le BB - Bistrot Breton, with its lovely shaded terrace, serves delicious fish dishes and excellent homemade pastries, all in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. And, of course, the à la carte menu includes...tuna! Open Thursday to Monday, 12 noon to 2pm and 7pm to 9pm in low season, every day in high season.

The Ria d'Etel is one of the most beautiful sites in the region. Why not discover the treasures of this inland sea by water? Departing from the Etel pier, the Navix company offers 1h30 cruises to explore its labyrinth of islands (and the most famous of them, the picturesque islet of Saint-Cado), and observe the many oyster beds for which the area is famous. The changing light and the colourful boats sailing peacefully by only add to the charm of the scenery. This sea trip is also an opportunity to appreciate the rich biodiversity of the Ria d'Etel, a sanctuary for many species of birds. The site is also a protected area classified as a Natura 2000 zone.

Prices start at €17 for those aged 13 and over. Book in advance to ensure a place on board, as cruises are very popular in summer. Tickets and information: Tourist Office at the port (Tel: 02 97 55 23 80).

This is the undisputed jewel of the Ria d'Etel. Populated by charming stone fishermen's cottages and a superb Romanesque chapel, the hamlet of Saint-Cado, built on an island in the heart of the river, is linked to the mainland by a narrow bridge. Legend has it that this bridge was built by the devil himself, who demanded in return the soul of the first creature to cross it. The inhabitants of Saint-Cado are said to have tricked him into letting a cat cross in front of them.

Near Saint-Cado you can admire the subject of every postcard in the area, the emblematic islet of Nichtarguer, a tiny rock topped by a little house with blue shutters, the future star of your holiday photos. The place is particularly magical at sunset, when the Ria lights up in a thousand and one colours.

The islet of Saint-Cado is attached to the commune of Belz, where you'll find plenty of footpaths for walking in the surrounding area. If you'd rather row than walk, kayak or stand-up paddle outings are available at Saint-Cado to help you discover the Etel salt river in a different way.

It would be a shame to leave the Ria d'Etel without tasting the famous oysters for which it is famous. The waters of the river give them an inimitable flavour. Just outside Belz, you can buy oysters direct from the oyster producer Pen Mané Bras (from €5 a dozen). There's also a delicatessen where you can stock up on fish soups, seaweed tartars and other delicious seafood. It's a great way to get a real taste of Breton gastronomy.