Medieval getaway Vannes

It all begins at the impressive former main entrance to the Old Town, the Prison Gate, which acts as a time machine for visitors. Once you've passed through this time-space portal, you're sure to be immersed in medieval times, as this is the starting point for discovering the overall structure of the city's defensive walls. Proof of the strategic importance of Vannes' location at the bottom of the Gulf of Morbihan, the remains of the Gallo-Roman wall also bear witness to its centuries-old past.

As if created for a course in the evolution of military architecture, this wall also features a succession of fortified gates and defensive towers dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, including the Tour du Connétable, a true symbol of the town.

Before leaving the fortifications, a glance over the stonework gives you a bird's eye view of the 600 metres or so of formal gardens that run alongside them, making the town famous and a pleasure to stroll through.

Once you enter the old town, the journey through time continues. You'll never tire of wandering through the narrow streets, marvelling at the superb half-timbered houses, the oldest of which date back to the 15th century. Wander from square to square, imagining the tournaments of chivalry that took place here in the Middle Ages. If you can't take part in a joust, you can always enjoy a drink on the terrace of Place Henri IV, while taking in the remarkable details carved into some of the town's finest medieval buildings.

To take this historical plunge to the next level, visit Château Gaillard, a magnificent 15th-century town house that houses the Vannes Museum of History and Archaeology. Unfortunately, the museum is closed for works until further notice, but you can still admire the splendour of the building as you stroll around.

Nestling on the heights of the city between the Porte Saint-Vincent and Saint-Pierre Cathedral, the Faubourg Saint-Patern is the city's oldest district. It is located on the site of the city founded by the Romans in the 1st century BC. Nicknamed the Montmartre of Vannes, this delightful district is full of colourful medieval houses and charming cafés and boutiques, making it a great place to stroll around. Here you can admireSaint-Patern church, whose superb Baroque bell tower dominates the surrounding area. Its interior is also well worth a visit to admire the paintings and elegant stained glass windows that bathe the building in a beautiful coloured light.

The profusion of bars and restaurants that flourish in the steep alleyways make Saint-Patern a very lively district, especially in the evenings. When it comes to eating, our hearts go out to the Cinque 5se, a very friendly establishment located very close to the church, serving tasty and original cuisine based on fresh, organic and local produce. The speciality of the house: a brioche flavoured with Sapont (aniseed liqueur with fir buds), made into toast according to the mood of the day. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 12 noon to 2pm and 7pm to 9.30pm, and Sunday lunchtime to 2pm.

In a more traditional vein, you can also enjoy Breton crêpes and galettes at the Dan Ewen crêperie. With its delightful blue and white timber-framed façade and stone walls, it's hard to eat a full galette in a more picturesque setting. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11:45 to 14:00 and from 18:45 to 21:30. Tel: (33) 2 97 42 44 34

In Saint-Patern, window-shoppers have come to the right place. Delicatessens, bookshops and craft shops abound. Particularly popular is the "Pleins les mirettes" boutique and workshop, offering superb earthenware and handmade ceramics. Address: 4, rue du Maréchal Leclerc in Saint-Patern. Open Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 12pm and 2.30pm to 7pm.

One of the highlights of the old town is, of course, the imposing cathedral of Saint-Pierre, a veritable jewel of Gothic architecture whose long and epic construction period stretched from the 15th to the 19th century. Built on the site of the former Romanesque cathedral, it comprises a nave and around ten side chapels. Vannes Cathedral is open every day from 8.30am to 7pm without interruption.

Built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the Cohue was the courtroom where the Estates of Brittany met until 1485, when Peter II installed the Parliament of Brittany here. During the Middle Ages, it served as both a covered market on the ground floor and a courtroom on the first floor. Today, La Cohue houses the Musée des Beaux-arts, with its rich collection of contemporary works and 19th-century paintings. These include the famous Christ on the Cross by Eugène Delacroix, as well as a number of romantic paintings of Breton panoramas.