A change of scene in the Basque Country

Basque holidays start with some well-deserved time to relax and unwind in the charming seaside resort of Hendaye. With its 3 kilometres of fine sandy beach offering superb views of the emblematic rocks of the 2 twins. It's the ideal place for non-experienced surfers who want to learn or perfect the art of surfing. Here, except on bad weather days when access to the water is forbidden, the waves are accessible and much less frightening than in other places on the Aquitaine coast. To learn to surf in complete safety, head to the Surf Division school, which offers surf lessons at €40 for adults and €30 for children in a relaxed, family atmosphere. You can also simply let yourself go and enjoy the pleasures of swimming before going to enjoy a sorbet or an ice cream in a traditional cone at Walter Glacier. But there's more to Hendaye than its (very beautiful) beach and seafront lined with elegant neo-Basque villas. It is also home to one of the most beautiful stretches of coastal path, the Corniche Basque, a superb protected natural area stretching for 10 kilometres. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, a grandiose route of steep cliffs and wild moors sculpted by the winds awaits you. For those who appreciate moments of meditation in complete tranquillity as they watch the waves roll in, there are some delightful secluded coves along the way. The Château d'Abbadia, a veritable jewel on the coast, with its spectacular ocean views, is another must-see in Hendaye. This marvel of neo-Gothic architecture, built in the 19th century for the illustrious ethnologist Antoine d'Abbadie, will delight heritage enthusiasts and dreamers who imagine for a moment that they have been transported to a fairytale world.

We venture a little further inland to discover one of the region's most famous peaks, the Massif de la Rhune, located on the edge of the Spanish border. From the top of its 905 m, it offers a 360° panorama of the Basque Country, the Landes and the Atlantic Ocean. You'll come across pottoks (sturdy little Basque ponies) and black-headed or red Manech ewes, whose milk is used to make the famous Ossau Iraty. It's also not unusual to see flights of griffon vultures soaring over the summit in search of prey. An unforgettable sight! To reach this little mountain paradise, board the Train de la Rhune, a picturesque cogwheel train dating from 1924 that will take you to the summit in 35 minutes. During the slow ascent, you can take in the fabulous panoramic views of the mountain and the ocean stretching as far as the eye can see. For a change of pace, you can choose to walk back down the mountain to soak up the invigorating scenery for longer. If the mountain air has made you hungry, just a stone's throw from the Rhune train station you'll find the fantastic Restaurant des chasseurs, a renowned establishment in the heart of a superb Basque house, whose terrace offers a breathtaking view of the Rhune massif. It serves subtle, creative cuisine that sublimates the flavours of the Basque Country to perfection, using local produce from both land and sea. It's definitely one of our favourites! Expect to pay €27 for a starter, main course and dessert. Open in summer every day except Wednesday from 12 noon to 2pm and from 7pm to 9.30pm. Out of season, the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Another walk in the area is well worth a visit. The Blue Pottoks trail links the French villages of Sare and Ainhoa with the border villages ofUrdax and Zugarramurdi, providing a short incursion into Spanish territory. The walk, marked out by a blue horse painted on the rocks, is accessible to families (allow 4 hours round trip) and passes through bucolic landscapes, between meadows, forests and green hills. It passes through the prehistoric site of the Grottes de Sare, an impressive cavity in the bowels of the Atxuria mountain where our ancestors once lived. During a 45-minute tour accompanied by a guide, you can wander through vast rooms of dizzying dimensions, learn more about how our ancestors lived and shiver as you watch the bats that have made the cave their home. It's a walk that's as instructive as it is moving.

The Blue Pottoks walk also takes in the small Spanish village of Zugarramurdi, known in the Basque Country as the "Village of the Witches". This sobriquet is due to the tragic story of 40 women who were tried for witchcraft in 1610 during the Inquisition after being denounced by their neighbours. 11 of them were sent to the stake. Zugarramurdi is still very much marked by this terrible story and today is a living witness to the ravages of the Witch Hunt in the Middle Ages.

Sorcerer's apprentices and those with a thirst for mystery will not want to miss a visit to the Grotto of Zugarramurdi, where legend has it that witches used to gather to celebrate the akelarres (or Sabbath). Nestling in the forest, this impressively high cave is still shrouded in a halo of magic and superstition. It's easy to imagine pagan rites being performed here around a bonfire. In fact, on Halloween evenings, concerts are held here, and the evenings can be described as... wild! At the entrance to the cave, the names of the 11 women who fell victim to Inquisitorial madness are inscribed. To find out more about this fascinating piece of medieval history and local mythology, visit the formidable Musée des Sorcières, which retraces the course of this extraordinary trial and pays tribute to the women persecuted by the Inquisitors. To return to the French side of the border, you can hop on your flying broom, or simply take the blue Pottoks trail!

An emblematic place in the Basque Country, world-famous for growing its famous red chilli pepper, the small village of Espelette is entirely pedestrianised and invites you to take a stroll and enjoy the good life. Here, in the heart of the Basque countryside, you can take your time wandering from shop to shop between the charming Basque houses whose facades are covered in garlands of chilli peppers drying in the sun, and relaxing in the sun on the café terraces. The Espelette chilli pepper that is the pride of the town was brought over from Mexico around 1950 and quickly replaced pepper, a very expensive commodity. To find out more about the history and know-how surrounding this spice, take a tour of the Centre d'interpétation du piment d'Espelette. Open Monday to Friday, 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. Admission is free.

If you'd like to take some of this 'red gold' home with you to liven up your everyday dishes, Ttipia, a superb delicatessen, is the place to go. You can buy chilli in all its forms, whole, powdered, fresh or dried, as well as a host of delicious Basque products from foie gras to wine, chocolate and cakes. For delicious contemporary Basque cuisine, check out the excellent restaurant Choko Ona ('good corner' in Basque). It's the perfect place to enjoy a delicious and visually stunning meal. No wonder the restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star!

Nature lovers, welcome! The Kakuetta Gorges, located in Haute Soule near the mountain village of Saint-Engrâce, are without doubt one of the most fabulous places in the Basque Country. This magnificent canyon, with its luxuriant vegetation and vertiginous rock faces pierced by waterfalls, between which a fiery torrent meanders, gives the impression of having swung from the south of France to the Amazon rainforest. Embark on a fantastic 4-kilometre journey with your family or friends. The walk begins at the "La Cascade" bar, where a path leads to a small lake with an almost supernatural emerald colour, and to the entrance to the gorge. As you plunge through the passageway leading to the canyon (nicknamed the "Grand Étroit"), you imagine yourself in the shoes of a daring explorer in search of a lost city. You then enter a magical world, filled with the scent of plants and the hypnotic song of waterfalls. Follow the footbridges along the river and let yourself be enchanted by this unspoilt wilderness. At the end of the canyon, the highlight is a 20-metre waterfall that you can walk behind. Beware of splashing! The hike ends in a vast cave where you can admire some superb stalactites and stalagmites.

There is a charge for access to the gorge: €6 for adults and €4.50 for under-16s. Tickets can be bought at the "La Cascade" bar. The entrance opens at 8am every morning from mid-March to mid-November and closes at dusk. The walk is not overly strenuous and is perfectly suitable for children, but don't forget to bring good shoes to avoid slipping on the wet rocks.

Our advice for enjoying this magical place in peace and quiet is to avoid peak times and come as soon as it opens.