Cap Corse: Erbalonga and the Douaniers trail

It's hard not to fall in love with this place. So calm and so beautiful at the same time... Welcome to Erbalonga, this small Corsican hamlet belonging to the commune of Brando, 9 km from Bastia. With its 16th-century Genoese tower jutting out into the sea, the marine (Corsican for fishing port) of Erbalonga has always been a source of inspiration for photographers and painters.

Postcard-perfect landscapes are what you can expect when you discover Erbalonga. The church of St Erasmus, with its sublime yellow Baroque façade, is another highlight.

And what makes Erbalonga so picturesque is its succession of old houses stuck together. Built on rocky outcrops, some seem to float on the water. The little harbour square, lined with cafés and restaurants, is also a very pleasant place to take a break overlooking the clear waters of the Mediterranean.

A summer of piano music

Every summer, Erbalonga lives to the rhythm of music during the "Piano Nights", a festival that brings together great international artists and music lovers for a few days at the end of July/beginning of August. These big-name performers bring the house down at the Théâtre de Verdure d'Erbalonga, which can seat up to 1,400 people.

Surrounded by cork oaks, the Théâtre de Verdure d'Erbalonga hosts concerts and shows all year round in an unspoilt natural setting. Julien Doré and Zazie have already performed here, as have a number of comedians at the Cap sur le rire festival.

With its rooms and suites set in an authentic 19th-century manor house, its two swimming pools, its sublime shaded courtyard, its restaurant serving Corsican cuisine and, of course, its spa, the 4-star Castel Brando offers a remarkable setting in which to discover Erbalonga and Cap Corse.

The Douaniers trail is THE walk not to be missed when exploring Cap Corse. At the northern tip of the island, the path follows the coastline of the Cap Corse for 25 km, offering a succession of wild landscapes. With its fine sandy coves on the edge of turquoise waters, sheer rocky outcrops and exceptional flora and fauna, it's sure to be a sight to behold!

As well as its natural beauty, this is a region steeped in history. Along the sentier des Douaniers, you can still see ancient lime kilns, archaeological sites, windmills, a Romanesque chapel and some coastal towers from the Genoese era.

This superb hiking trail begins at the port of Macinaggio and ends at the port of Centuri. It takes around 8 hours to walk the entire trail. You can, of course, follow the path in any direction. You can also divide the walk into two stages and walk only part of it: stage 1: Macinaggio - Barcaggio (3-hour walk), characterised by dunes and beautiful beaches; stage 2: Barcaggio - Tollare - Centuri (5-hour walk), which is wilder.

The first section between Macinaggio and Barcaggio is the busiest. Even though it's a coastal path, you should be aware that there are quite a few ascents and descents. This stage is the most accessible, as the San Paulu shuttle bus makes the round trip. During the summer season, you can return to the starting point by boat.

The second section between Barcaggio and Centuri is impressive, as the coastline is even wilder! Generally speaking, the Douaniers trail is very well signposted and not particularly difficult. However, you will need to be in good physical condition, as the route is quite steep and there is very little shade.