Al-Ula, in the depths of a remarkable oasis

Situated in the heart of the Arabian desert, Al-Ula is a thousand-year-old city that has developed around a formidable oasis. Visit its majestic palm grove to soak up its freshness, but also to understand its hydraulic ingenuity, the result of the ancestral know-how of its inhabitants.

But that's not all. If Al-Ula was historically situated on the incense route traced by the Nabataeans, who traded incense by going up north to sell it around the Mediterranean, today Al-Ula is the ideal place to visit the remarkable archaeological site of Mada'In Saleh, which is known internationally as Hégra. When it's not simply called Al-Ula.

This interest in the site, spearheaded by the French agency AFALULA**, has seen the emergence in recent years of an oasis within an oasis, in other words a range of top-of-the-range hotels that are both rich and particularly suited to the desert, with strong brands such as Banyan Tree and Habitas. The Shaden Resort alone is well worth a visit.

So you won't come here by chance. Especially as the Al-Ula oasis was also the cradle of a particularly advanced society, just like the Pharaonic society that was dying out on the other side of the Red Sea: the kingdom of Lihyan, whose necropolis is full of surprises and can also be visited here.

L’oasis dans toute sa splendeur, vue depuis l'une des tables de grès.

- © aliirsha / Shutterstock

Welcome to Al-Ula

First of all, you should know that Al-Ula has its own airport, Prince Abdul Majeed Bin Abdulaziz International Airport, which opened to international traffic in 2021. Here you will find a useful Information Desk if you have any questions.

If you land here, you'll need to take a taxi the 25 kilometres to your hotel in Al-Ula. Hotel accommodation is fairly scattered around the oasis, and we suggest that you choose your establishment not only for its facilities, but also according to your programme and your priorities as a traveller.

In the streets of Al-Ula

- © Vadim_N / Shutterstock

As well as its hotel facilities, which attract an influx of enthusiastic tourists, Al-Ula is a catalyst for cultural activity in the region. Shows are performed here regularly, and a concert hall called " Maraya " exudes an unusual magic: it is completely covered in mirrors.

La salle de concert Maraya est le plus grand bâtiment avec façades en miroir du monde.

- © CJimenez / Shutterstock

Practical information

The municipality of Al Ula has set up an iOS (Apple) or Android application that you can download here.

As well as providing you with a contact number that will answer any questions you may have about the organisation and highlights of your stay in real time, this app will give you useful information about places to visit and their must-sees, the addresses of restaurants and cafés in Al Ula, with recommendations, cultural events, shows, festivals and concerts.

It's also worth taking a stroll around the Old Town. Here you will find Liyanite and Nabataean inscriptions carved into the rock. These are blocks of stone salvaged at the end of the Middle Ages to build the city. These studies are being carried out through the MuDUD (Multiscalar Documentation for Urban Dynamics) project, managed by France.

The old town of Al-Ula is now abandoned.

- © pixeltaster / Shutterstock

L'Oasis

The natural world

The Al-Ula oasis is a haven of peace and freshness for any desert-loving traveller who has been in the area for a while. The oasis is split in two and is characterised by its remarkable palm grove, sheltered by the tabular rock formations that surround it.

L'oasis s'étend sur plus de 2000 hectares.

- © pixeltaster / Shutterstock

Peacefully enter this forest of palm trees to enjoy its greenery, rare in the desert. These are date palms. You'll also find citrus trees. These sun-drenched, sugar-laden fruits are sure to please.

Date harvesting.

- © alexmak7 / Shutterstock

Remember to keep hydrated at all times. You may come across a hawker in the shade of the palm fronds.

The oasis is long, but it will take you at least half an hour if you try to cross it on foot. It is one of the largest in the country.

© Hyserb / Shutterstock

From the hand of man

If you are interested in this subject, you can ask a guide to accompany you to this very special place. The Al-Ula oasis, which has existed since around 3000 BC, is remarkable for the irrigation system that was installed in its soil, probably in the Middle Ages, in particular its underground galleries (qanats) that drain water from the water table by gravity alone (today, of course, the water is drawn off by modern pumping systems).

© Hyserb / Shutterstock

So you'll understand that an oasis of this size is not the result of a simple combination of water and the magic of vegetation, but that it is truly an anthropic site, in other words one where the hand of man has been decisive.

This is understandable. Since the dawn of time, this oasis has been a place of cultivation where horticultural gardens and market gardening met. Today, archaeobotanists are being called in to understand the extinct workings of this ecosystem, while the crops of the past have given way to date palms and citrus fruits.

Practical information

✈️ Getting to Al-Ula

Al-Ula has its own international airport.

The Visitor Information Centre is located in the Winter Park. This is where expeditions usually depart from.

🌴🌴 Visiting the oasis

To book a tour of the oasis, click here.

💰 Prices

From 35 SAR / person, or 8, 71 €.

⏳ Duration

2 hours

🚙 Getting to Dadan by 4x4

To book a 4x4 with driver, it's here.

🗿 Visit the archaeological site of Dadan

To book a tour to Dadan, it's here.

💰 Prices

From 60 SAR / person, or 15, 00 €.

⏳ Duration

2 hours

🚙 Going to the Hegra / Mada'In Saleh site

To book a half day at Hegra (Mada'In Saleh), it's here.

💰 Prices

From 95 SAR / person, or 23.63 €.

Closed shoes are recommended.

The Dadan archaeological site

Another of the oasis' main attractions is its archaeological site. From your hotel, hop in a taxi or on a bicycle and discover it, accompanied by a guide.

© Hyserb / Shutterstock

First of all, we know that the oasis was once fortified, a sign of a wealthy city that could be coveted. It collected taxes on the transport of the tree species from southern Arabia that were used to make incense. Its proximity to the ancient incense route, which ran from present-day Yemen to the Mediterranean, explains its liveliness and the flow of people and goods.

Tombs from the Lihyanite period.

- © aliirsha / Shutterstock

From a historical point of view, we are interested in understanding how this civilisation functioned, which probably made this city the capital of the Kingdom of Arabia a millennium before our era. What we already know is that this civilisation was remarkable for its mastery of art (stone statuettes of perfect proportions bear witness to this), its sense of commerce, its advances in the sciences and the particular attention paid to burials, reminiscent of the Pharaonic civilisations that we know they had to trade with (not surprisingly, Egypt is just across the Red Sea).

Les deux lions sculptés au-dessus d'un « tombeaux aux lions » de Dadan, Al-Ula.

- © RCU2019 / Shutterstock

Another sign of its indisputable progress was the invention of a language and script, "dadanitic", which existed only in this valley, as did, by a play of causality it seems, its deities. Its inhabitants worshipped Ha-Kutbay, the goddess of writing.

An example of a Dadan rock engraving.

- © RCU2019 / Shutterstock

Dadanite rock art produced numerous inscriptions, including hunting scenes with camels and ostriches, in which humans were symbolised. And, of course, hieroglyphics.

Good to know

The French are now involved in archaeological work on the site in the Al-Ula region. A ten-year partnership with the Royal Commission for Al-Ula (RCU) has led to the creation of AFALULA, the French Agency for the Development of Al-Ula, which is working to enhance and preserve the site.

Where to take a lunch break?

Unsurprisingly, the main culinary offerings are to be found in the city's hotel restaurants. Entrecôte Café de Paris serves Parisian-inspired cuisine. Banyan Tree' s Harrat serves local and international cuisine, while Suhail Old Town specialises in traditional Arabian cuisine. Banyan Tree 's Saffron offers Thai cuisine in a stylish Asian decor.

Of course, you can easily find other addresses. In addition, foodtrucks are planned, notably on the outskirts of the oasis.

Where to eat?

🍴 Entrecôte Café de Paris

This restaurant will serve you a delicious entrecôte steak and chips with its remarkable butter sauce. Reservations are recommended.

📍 address

The Old Town, AlUla 43562

📞 phone number

966 9200 18998

🍴 Le Harrat (Banyan Tree)

This restaurant located in the Banyan Tree will serve you a choice of Middle Eastern or Western cuisine.

📍 address

3896 Abdulrahman Al Ghafiqi Street, 43562 Al-Ula

⏰ Opening times

  • Breakfast is served in the morning, from 7am to 11am.
  • Lunch is served from midday to 4pm.
  • Dinner is served from 6pm to midnight.

En route to Hegra (Madahin-Saleh)

Once you've discovered Al-Ula, you can plan an expedition, or even several, to the Madahin-Saleh site, which is the size of Belgium! Such an escapade is not to be planned lightly, especially as the region is mostly deserted. You'll find the must-see sites such as Al Diwan, the tombs of Al Sanea and Lihyan (Qasr al Farid), and the 18 tombs of Jabal Al Ahmar, but the necropolis as a whole contains around a hundred tombs, some of which are still being cleared or even discovered today. We recommend that you read our article on the necropolis to get the full picture of this vast universe.

© pixeltaster / Shutterstock

Some exceptional tombs are only accessible by 4x4, which will give you the feeling of being privileged - which you will be! This will give you the feeling of being privileged - which you will be! - away from the tourists who have planned their visits by bus. Be aware, however, that your driver will need to be a member of an organisation authorised to visit a particular tomb.

On the site of Mada'In Saleh, one of the necropolises buried under the sand.

- © Hanohiki / 123RF
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