Amman, a capital that is both modern and traditional

With its wide boulevards lined with luxurious stone houses, its top-of-the-range cars, its interchanges and its Downtown (lower town) borrowed from American cities, the capital of the Hashemite kingdom, resolutely westernised, is surprising. Only the souk reminds you that you are in the Orient. One in three Jordanians live in this sprawling city, which has also taken in many Palestinian refugees. The atmosphere here is a perfect blend of tradition and modernity. Ancient Philadelphia has preserved a number of monuments from the Roman era, including the famous Jabal al-Qal'a citadel, which offers a fine panoramic view of the whole city from its hill. Although Amman is above all the starting point for exploring the surrounding area (Jerash, the desert castles and the Dead Sea are less than two hours away), taking the time to visit the city is sure to hold a few surprises in store!

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What to do in Amman

Amman, the capital of Jordan, is a cosmopolitan city with something for everyone. History buffs will marvel at the ruins of the Jabal al-Qal'a citadel and the city's museums. Fashionistas are sure to find what they are looking for in the department stores or in the souk. Party-goers can dance the night away in the city's bars and nightclubs.

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The Jabal al-Qal'a citadel

Built on a rocky spur overlooking the lower town, the Jabal al-Qal'a citadel, often simply referred to as the "citadel of Amman", offers a magnificent view of the Jordanian capital and the nineteen hills that surround it. All that remains of the citadel is a few vestiges of the Roman wall. See also the enormous podium of the Temple of Hercules, which was the most important monument on the acropolis.

The Temple of Hercules at Amman Citadel.

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El Qasr Palace is a monumental cruciform hall with elaborate floral and geometric decoration that remains from the late Umayyad palace complex of the 8th century.

The lower town

The lower town lies at the foot of Amman's citadel hill. The very well restored Roman theatre dates from the 2nd century. Set against the hill, it could seat around six thousand spectators. Here you are on the ancient forum, a vast public square lined with galleries, where the small hemicycle of the odeon can still be seen. This is where you'll find the souk district, around the King Hussein Mosque. Here you can buy spices and gold at good prices if you know how to haggle.

Le théâtre romain et la ville basse d’Amman.

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For meals, sit down at a table in one of the many small street restaurants and enjoy mezze, falafel and kefta. Don't hesitate to stop off at a café in Rainbow Street, one of Amman's liveliest streets, for a mint tea or Turkish coffee while smoking a hookah.

The modern city

In the modern city, don't miss the New King Abdullah Mosque, recognisable by its blue dome, built in the 1980s: a fine example of contemporary Islamic art. Visits are also open to non-practising visitors. The imposing tower of the ancient Ammonite kingdom dates back to... the Second Iron Age! Don't hesitate to wander around the city and visit the markets, just to feast your eyes and noses.

The modern city of Amman.

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Fashionistas will love a trip to the Al-Abdali district to explore the huge Abdali Mall shopping centre. In the evening, wander the streets of Amman to find a bar to your taste and experience the picturesque atmosphere of this Middle Eastern city.

Museums in Amman

The interior of the Jordan Archaeological Museum in Amman.

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In Amman, three museums are well worth a visit: the very rich Archaeological Museum of Jordan, which covers the country's history from prehistoric times to Roman antiquity; the Museum of Jordanian Folklore, with its interesting collection devoted to the life of the nomads of the Jordanian desert; and the Museum of Popular Traditions, which retraces the daily life of the ancient Bedouins and exhibits Byzantine mosaics, mainly from Madaba.

Our favourite hotel in Amman

Hotel Philosophy 3* - Amman Jordan
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Hotel Philosophy 3* - Amman

This 3-star hotel-restaurant with its quirky decor is the ideal base for visiting Amman!
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Practical information for Amman

Amman is a cosmopolitan capital with an old town with an interesting past, many vestiges to see and typical little cafés and restaurants. You'll enjoy strolling through its markets and haggling in its souks. In one day, you'll already have a good overview of Amman, but we recommendstaying for two days to discover the city in depth and soak up the atmosphere here.

🚗 How do I get to Amman?

Queen Alia International Airport, the country's main airport, is just 35 kilometres from the city centre, which will cost you around 20 JOD by taxi. A bus also links the airport and Amman for 3 JOD. From the rest of the country, routes 15, 30, 35 and 40 serve Amman.

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Qusayr Amra in the desert.

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🗓️ When to go to Amman?

Average temperatures fluctuate from 12°C in January to 33°C in August. The summer season is particularly arid, which makes stays in the heart of large cities such as Amman less pleasant. We recommend that you stay in the Jordanian capital from March to May or from September to December.

A few tips for your visit

  • As in many capitals around the world, the cost of living here is generally higher than in the rest of the country. Amman is no exception to the rule.
  • The city is sprawling, and it can be difficult to get around without a car because of the lack of public transport. What's more, traffic can be difficult at times.
  • Avoid clothing that shows a lot of skin (shorts, short skirts or tank tops)...
by Jude JONES
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