Exploring Glen Coe

On February 13th 1692, Glen Coe became the sight of a famous massacre, today known as the Massacre of Glencoe. After King James II was replaced on the English and Scottish thrones by William III in 1689, the government issued an order that Scottish clan leaders needed to swear allegiance to the new King by January 1, 1692. However, Alexander MacDonald submitted his oath on December 31, 1691 meaning that it did not reach a magistrate until January 6th, as none had been set up at Fort William. By that point, Sir John Dalrymple, King William’s state secretary for Scotland had issued an order that clan MacDonald of Glen Coe be militarily punished. The MacDonalds were suddenly and violently attacked and their chief, McIan, along with 33 of his fellow clansmen, 2 clanswomen and 2 children were massacred. The clan’s neighbour, John Campbell was widely suspected of being involved in planning the attack, due to the two clan’s enduring rivalry. 

The event became popular amongst 19th century poets, and was notably the subject of Sir Walter Scott’s poem “Massacre of Glencoe”. A Song of Ice and Fire author George R.R. Martin also cites the event as an important historical source of inspiration for the infamous “Red Wedding” moment in his 2000 book A Storm of Swords. 

The Massacre of Glencoe memorial monument was erected in 1883 by Alexander MacDonald and Co of Aberdeen. The monument is situated a little off the beaten path, and may take a bit of searching to find. The easiest way of going about it is once you find yourself in the village, follow the road sign to Upper Carnoch, you will find the monument a couple of hundred metres down the road.

Hiking is of course the main event when visiting Glen Coe. It’s glorious and inevitable, and definitely should be something to add to your bucket list. Even if you aren’t an experienced hiker or maybe you’ve never been hiking at all, if there ever was a place to start, this is it. 

You cannot miss a hike through the Three Sisters, Glen Coe’s most iconic and most photographed landmark, to fully appreciate the site’s majesty. The Three sisters are, as the name suggests, made up of three peaks: Aonach Dubh, Beinn Fhada and Gearr Aonach. There are many different trails visitors can choose to take on, the most stunning would have to be the Bidean Nam Bian trail, which loops beautifully through the Three Sisters and offers breathtaking views of Lochaber. The Pap of Glencoe (Sgorr na Ciche) trail is an excellent middle range walk, offering a showstopping 360° view over all of Glen Coe. The trail presents a moderate challenge, perfect for newcomers who want to push themselves, and is about 7km. It will take approximately 4 hours in total. If you’re in the mood for something a little less intensive, right outside of Glencoe village, you will find Glencoe Lochan, a stunning lochan surrounded by large woods and a mountainous backdrop. The various trails wind through the landscape and make for beginner-friendly but stunning hikes. If you’re after a longer and more challenging hike, The Great Glen Way, one of Scotland’s Great Trails starts at Fort William and takes you on an adventure all the way to Inverness and takes approximately 5 to 7 days to complete. 

Hiking may be the star of the show here, but Glencoe has so much more to offer. To discover the area’s Lochs, why not take a boat cruise to enjoy the scenery. Cruise Loch Linnhe offer a variety of boat cruises and isa wonderful way to discover Glen Coe from a different angle and see some of the local wildlife (come on, who doesn’t want to meet some adorable Scottish seals?). 

If you want to try a little bit of everything, Woodlands Glencoe offer a wide selection of adventures you can go on, from electric bike tours of the Glen to archery and shooting lessons and even Whiskey tastings. 

If you want to expand your knowledge of Glen Coe’s history, make sure you pay the Glencoe Folk Museum a visit. Housed in a suite of traditional heather-thatched cottages, the museum displays a collection of historic objects, celebrates local heritage and provides a glimpse into Glencoe’s rich and fascinating history. 

Once all your adventures have made you hungry for some Scottish delicacies, head on down to the Clachaig Inn, located in the heart of Glencoe, this place is a pillar of local life. Rumoured to have been around for over 300 years, you’ll find a welcoming Inn and hearty local meals, such as haggis and even a veggie version of the ultimate Scottish dish and will be invited to enjoy a pint with a view. They also offer an epic selection of Scottish whiskies and gins. 

If you’re in the mood for some fantastic fresh seafood, head to the Ballachulish Hotel’s Fish Restaurant, located only a stone's throw from the stunning Loch Linnhe.The Lochleven Seafood Cafe is also an excellent choice when it comes to seafood and is located in Fort William. The Crafts and Things café is the perfect spot to enjoy a comforting cup of coffee or hot chocolate and some delightful baked goods. The family-run business is located in a charming cottage and is also home to a craft shop. 

Most people suggest visiting Glen Coe between May and September, to make the most of the extra sunlight and slightly warmer weather. July and August are by far the busiest times to visit and the crowds tend to be on the larger side as this is a popular destination. If you want to avoid the crowds and get a more moody experience of the Glen, September to October is also a lovely time to go and you’ll have the advantage of witnessing nature’s beautiful display of early Autumn colours. Winter in the Glen can be beautiful in its own way, but rough weather can make it tricky to drive around and hike safely. 

Exploring the area can take as long as you want it to. Typically, people tend to stay two days and then move on to their next destination, but you could easily spend more time here if you’re looking to head to the Highlands and disconnect for a bit. 

By car: 

• From the North: take the A82 or A830 to Fort William and then it’s only a 20 minute journey to get to the Loch Leven area. 
• From the South: take the A82 from Glasgow and it is a pretty scenic and straightforward journey from then on; the A828 via Oban; A84 from Stirling/Callander. 

By bus: 

• The CityLink from Glasgow takes you all the way to Glencoe in about 2 hours. You can also use this bus when travelling from Skye. 
• From Inverness, you can take a local bus service which takes you to Glencoe. 

By train: 

• From Glasgow, you can catch the Glasgow Queen Street for a scenic ride all the way to Fort William. A local train service runs from Mallaig to Fort William, or you could also catch the iconic Jacobite steam train during peak season. 

There is a regular bus service, number 44, between Kinlochleven and Fort William, which stops in Glencoe, Ballachulish and other settlements en-route. The bus service is run by a local operator and also goes to Kentallen and Duror.

The local train stop is Fort William. 

Parking is widely available throughout the Glen and there are two petrol stations, one in North Ballachulish and the other in Glencoe village.