Edinburgh, Scotland's haunting capital

Scotland’s capital has everything you could ever want in a city: endless culture and activities, soaring nature and scenery, warm and welcoming people and a vibrant city life. It’s the real deal. Edinburgh is a completely enchanting place and there’s no denying its spellbinding, regal atmosphere. There’s nothing quite like getting lost and aimlessly wandering around the city’s charming alleyways and hidden passages, discovering its stunning architecture and taking in all of its grand beauty. It’s no surprise that the city has served as a source of literary inspiration for many authors, from Mary Shelley, to Robert Louis Stevenson and of course, Irvine Welsh. Alexander McCall Smith had this to say about the Scottish capital: “This city whispers: come, look at me, listen to the beating of my heart. I am the place you have seen in dreams, I am a stage for you to play upon. I am Edinburgh.” and if that doesn’t sum up the wondrous creative feelings Edinburgh can stir up, I’m not sure what will. Its status as a cultural hub was officially cemented when, in 2004, it became the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature. 

The city has so much to offer, it’s impossible to get bored. Whether you want to go on some awe-inspiring walks, learn about Scotland’s history, go shopping or take on as many pub crawls as you can, Edinburgh has it all. 

Edinburgh Castle and Princes Street at Sunset.

- © cornfield / Shutterstock

A glimpse at Edinburgh’s history

Edinburgh became Scotland’s capital in 1437, when it replaced Scone. A definite settlement on Castle Rock can be traced all the way back to  the early Middle Ages. The city was part of the Kingdom of Northumbria between the 7th and 10th century. It quickly became the principal royal residence of Scottish Kings and around the 12th century, what we now know as the Old Town started to develop around the stronghold. The New Town was added from the late 18th century onwards. 

Today, the city is home to Scotland’s parliament, established in 1999. It is an astonishing place that has been host to religious wars, a myriad of significant scientific discoveries and medical advancements, political turmoil, popular riots, and English invasions and occupations. Since the very start, it has also been a beacon for academics from around the globe. 

Night falls on Edinburgh and its steeples: Blue Hour, Balmoral Clocktower

Night falls on Edinburgh and its steeples: Blue Hour, Balmoral Clocktower

- © Egor Baliasov / Shutterstock

Whether you’re superstitious or not, there’s no avoiding Edinburgh’s haunted history and spooky landmarks. Said to be one of the most haunted cities in the world, it’s hard to ignore the innumerable historical accounts of ghost and apparition sightings, undoubtedly sparked by the city’s more gruesome historical events, including but not limited to homicides, executions, “witch” burnings and mass murders. From Greyfriars Kirkyard, the city’s main graveyard, to the Vaults, an underground network of tunnels that were once used to smuggle bodies for medical dissection, and of course, Edinburgh Castle itself, the city seems marked by this gruesome history. This, combined with its iconic gothic architecture, gives Edinburgh a distinctly macabre charm unlike any other city in the world. 

Touring Edinburgh’s galleries

Edinburgh is spoilt for choice when it comes to art galleries. During your stay, you will want to make time to visit some of the city’s museums. 

The National Museum of Scotland is undeniably a pillar of Scottish cultural life. Meshing together both old and new in the building’s impressive structure, the National Museum is home to a grand collection of eclectic artefacts, where you will find everything from Ancient Egyptian sarcophaguses to 19th century Japanese woodblock prints to old Highland bagpipes. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm and admission is free

If you’re an art lover with a penchant for paintings, then head straight to the Scottish National Gallery. Home to countless masterpieces by Vermeer, Botticelli, El Greco, Raphael, Titian, to name only a few, the beautifully curated collection is well worth a visit. On top of its excellent permanent collection, the Gallery often puts on magnificent exhibitions. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm, admission is free

If you want to organise your visit around one of Edinburgh’s standalone reputation as the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature, head on down to the Writer’s Museum. The museum celebrates Scotland’s literary heritage, focusing on three essential figures: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. Located right off the Royal Mile, the Writer’s Museum is easy to find and is open daily from 10am to 5pm, admission is free

The Museum of Edinburgh is the perfect place to brush up on your knowledge of local history and culture. Located in a suite of beautiful 16th century buildings, the Museum of Edinburgh houses an incredible collection of Scottish artefacts and has a plethora of stories to tell about the city’s mysterious past and folklore. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm; admission is free

The People’s Story Museum looks at the history of the working class people of Edinburgh from the 18th century all the way to the late 20th century. The museum provides an excellent look at the too often overlooked people who truly made Edinburgh what it is today and presents a wonderful collection of objects, tableaux and personal stories

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND - JULY 17, 2016: Grand Gallery of the National Museum of Scotland. It was renovated in 2011.

- © Anton_Ivanov / Shutterstock

Palaces, castles and monuments, Oh My!

No visit to Edinburgh would be complete without discovering some of its most iconic monuments, palaces and castles

The unmissable Edinburgh Castle not only dominates the city’s skyline, but also happens to be one of Europe’s most impressive historic sites. Historically, the castle, sat upon the rock, has served as an obviously militarily advantageous stronghold. Throughout the centuries, it became the site of many sieges, various battles and uprisings and was turned into a royal residence in the 11th century. The castle also houses the Honours of Scotland, the oldest Crown jewels in Britain. Between April and September, the castle is open daily from 9:30am until 6pm and from 9:30am until 5pm from October to March. You should set aside about 2 hours to visit the castle. Be sure to book tickets in advance as they can sell out quite quickly, regular admission tickets cost between 18 and 20£, family tickets are available

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the King’s official residence in Scotland. Visiting the palace allows you to get a glimpse into the lives of some of Scotland’s most famous historical figures, from Mary, Queen of Scots to Bonnie Prince Charlie. The palace is bursting with lavish rooms that visitors are free to wander around before making their way to Holyrood Abbey and the Palace Gardens. The palace is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, except from July to September when it is open 7 days a week from 9:30am. Regular admission tickets cost between 18 and 20£, concessions are available. 

The Scott Monument is one of Edinburgh's most iconic landmarks. Dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, it is one of the largest monuments dedicated to a writer in the world. Majestically looming over Princes Street, the monument’s gothic architecture and intricate sculpted detail is nothing short of breathtaking. You can easily appreciate the monument from the Gardens or the Street but guided tours are available 7 days a week, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk on-sight and cost 8£ for adults and 6£ for children/concessions. 

Craigmillar Castle is a stunningly haunting medieval castle that was famously used as a safe haven by Mary, Queen of Scots in 1566. Wander around the ruins, picture yourself transported back to medieval Scotland and don’t be afraid of getting lost in the castle’s nooks and crannies. The castle is open daily, from 9:30am until 5:30pm between April and September, and from 10am until 4pm from October to March. Regular admission costs 7£, concessions and family tickets are available. 

Calton Hill is famous for its impressive collection of monuments. Often referred to as “Edinburgh’s Acropolis”, the Hill features the striking National Monument, which was directly inspired by Athens’ Parthenon;  the Nelson Monument; the Robert Burns Monument; the Dugald Stewart Monument; the Political Martyrs Monument; and the City Observatory. In addition, Carlton Hill is an excellent spot to get a stunning view of the city

Edinburgh Castle, Scotland, from Princes Street Gardens, with Ross Fountain in the foreground

- © godrick / Shutterstock

Walking around the city

If you’re looking to aimlessly meander around the streets of a charming, yet hauntingly beautiful city, then wandering around Edinburgh is the activity for you. Robert Louis Stevenson said that  “There are no stars as lovely as Edinburgh street-lamps.” and what better way to set the tone for exploring the city. 

Of course, there are so many ways to go about this, but these are our favourite areas to hit up by foot. First, the Old Town, home to the city’s most iconic historical landmarks, is absolutely perfect for meandering. Walking up or down the Royal Mile, starting at or finishing at Edinburgh Castle, is a quintessential part of any visit to Edinburgh done right. It is very easy to get around and is a perfect way to get immersed in historic Edinburgh. 

Leith is a fantastic neighbourhood to explore for a completely different experience of Edinburgh. Located in the northern part of the city, this iconic area and its port have served as a historic entry point to the city for centuries and the original harbour dates back to the 14th century. Today, it is a dynamic part of the city that is popular amongst locals for its diverse set of cafés, restaurants and cute boutiques

Arthur’s Seat is the ultimate Edinburgh walk, although it’s much more of a hike. The ascent is particularly rocky and steep, and while it is well worth it, make sure you wear appropriate attire when attempting it. The grassy peak covers the remains of an extinct volcano and is situated in Holyrood Park, at the end of the Royal Mile. Its name has sparked rumours about Edinburgh’s connection to the mythical King Arthur.ome even say that Arthur’s Seat could have been the location of the legendary Camelot. Walking the Salisbury Crags is the most obvious and well-rounded route, the views you will get to see on this trail will leave you breathless. Alternatively, there’s an easier path from Queen’s Drive to Dunsapie Loch and then straight ahead from there which will also guarantee a fun walking experience. Find out more about hiking Arthur’s Seat here.

A taste of the city

While visiting Edinburgh, you’ll surely want to taste some of the excellent local cuisine. Experience some of the newer and more up-and-coming restaurants and do not miss out on some excellent Scottish baked goods. 

For some delicious fresh seafood and small produced wines, head to LeftField in Bruntsfield Links. This neighbourhood bistro is cosy, warm and the food is always so beautiful and flavourful. For all our vegetarian and vegan readers, Henderson’s is your go to restaurant. Located on Hanover street, they offer an incredible range of veggie and vegan meals, including our favourite: the Henderson Haggis. 

The Bon Vivant, located in the heart of New Town offers a mouth-watering modern twist on crowd-pleasing classics. The food here is a sure bet and has never disappointed. 

TheSheep Heid Inn is a beautifully restored pub located near Arthur’s Seat and is a solid favourite amongst hikers and local students alike. You will find all your favourite pub meals executed beautifully, but the show-stopper is, beyond the shadow of a doubt, their Sunday roast. 

For some wonderful baked goods and delicious teas and coffees, head to Archipelago Bakery in New Town. Make sure to taste their unparalleled sourdough bread. 

You can’t visit Edinburgh without feasting on some local freshly made shortbread and Shortbread House, down the end of Leith Walk, is the perfect place to do just that. 

Whiskey, as we know, is what Scotland’s really all about. To get the full experience, head to Johnnie Walker Princes Street where they offer many different tours to get to know more about the history of Whiskey, the process of making it and of course, a tasting. Tours range from 18£ to 95£ per adult. 

When you’re ready to hit the bars and continue your Whiskey-tasting experience, we love Panda & Sons on Queen Street, The Last Word Saloon in Stockbridge, cocktails at the Gleneagles Townhouse’s rooftop bar: Lamplighters and and the Di-Vin in the West End. 

Edinburgh, Scotland 14th July 2018 - Edinburghs Old Town is the site of many bars and restaurants frequented by locals and tourists alike during the busy summer months in Edinburgh

- © Derek Skinner / Shutterstock

Practical Information

Like the rest of Scotland, the weather in Edinburgh is nothing if not capricious. Make sure you pack the right clothes for your trip and an umbrella, just in case.
We recommend staying in Edinburgh at least three days, considering how much the city has to offer. That said, you can easily stay for a week and never get bored.

Our favourite hotel in Edinburgh

Gleneagles Townhouse Scotland
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Gleneagles Townhouse

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How to get to Edinburgh?

By car: 

  • Edinburgh is easily accessible by car. Parking is readily available within the city, although we do not recommend driving in the city centre as public transport is easier to use

By Plane: 

  • Edinburgh Airport is located about 8 km to the west of Edinburgh and is the third biggest city in the UK in terms of airport passenger numbers, after London and Manchester.  Visitors can get to and from the airport by bus, car and taxi. The journey there can take approximately 25 minutes. A regular airport bus is operated by Airlink 100 and runs every 10 minutes, 24 hours a day departing from Waverley Bridge.

By bus: 

  • Buses to Edinburgh come into Edinburgh Bus Station on St Andrew’s Square, in the city centre. Visit the TravelLine website to plan your bus journey. 

By train: 

  • Most services going to Edinburgh come in at Edinburgh Waverley Station, in the heart of the city. Visit the ScotRail website to find out more about trains to Edinburgh from other Scottish cities or towns.
  • From London, the train is a great alternative to get to Scotland and enjoy the scenic ride up north. Trains regularly run from King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley on the LNER service. This service also runs from Aberdeen, York, Newcastle and Leeds. The Caledonian Sleeper is also a popular overnight service operating between Edinburgh and London Euston. 

Getting around Edinburgh

Lothian buses operate all throughout Edinburgh and tickets are purchased in the bus, via your contactless credit or debit card. You can check the timetables via the Transport for Edinburgh app. 

The trams are also a handy way of getting around the city if you have a stop near you and you can see their timetables on the Transport for Edinburgh app

The city is also very bicycle-friendly, having many easily accessible cyclepaths. Regular and electric bikes are readily available for hire

Some things to keep in mind for your visit

  • For a better chance of seeing any sunshine at all, the summer months are your best bet. Although it must be said that there is an obvious charm about a cold, gloomy and foggy day in Edinburgh
  • Scotland does have its own banknotes but English pounds are accepted everywhere around the country (a kindness which is not reciprocated in England). That said, card and contactless payments are much more widespread nowadays. 
  • Citymapper is an excellent app to help you navigate your way around the city. 
  • Tipping is sometimes expected with table service, although a 12% service charge is typically already automatically added to your bill.
by Val HANCOCK
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