The Isle of Skye: a testament to Scotland's enduring beauty

Land of myth and legend, the Isle of Skye stands as the ultimate testament to Scotland’s endless beauty. Celebrated around the world for its magnificence and drama, Scotland’s second-largest island is among the country’s most visited areas. That said, you’re still rather likely to find yourself alone with nature in certain areas. Home to vast landscapes, towering sea cliffs, mighty mountains and dazzling lochs, a visit to the Isle of Skye should be on every person’s bucket list. Its captivating history will have you enthralled and itching to know more.

Dominated by the Cuillin (An Cuiltheann), its iconic range of jagged rocky mountains, the isle is the biggest and northernmost of the islands in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides. The Isle is made up of multiple small towns and villages including Portree, its capital, Kilmur and Dunvegan. 

The golden sunrise of the atmosphere and the misty fog create a colourful landscape of the iconic rock, the Old Man of Storr, on the Isle of Skye in the Scottish Highlands.

- © Stephen Bridger / Shutterstock

The Isle of Skye’s history

The very first written references we have today of the Isle of Skye date all the way back to Ancient Rome. Then known as scitis or scetis, it is thought that this name derived from the Celtic sketis, an ancient word for “winged”, presumably referencing the isle’s mountainous geography that appears to be emanating off mainland Scotland. There is still no agreed upon etymology for the Isle’s name but many have been proposed, including the Norse Skíð perhaps originating from Skuy (the misty isle), and variations of translations from Gaelic for “winged isle” or “notched isle”. 

One of the oldest archeological sites in Scotland, a hunter-gatherer settlement from the Mesolithic era can be found in Staffin, on the northern coast of Skye. Neolithic archeological sites can be found throughout the isle. 

The mythical hero Cú Chulainn is said to have trained on the isle of Skye with the iconic woman warrior Scáthach

The Isle was held by the Norse from the 9th century until the second half of the 11th century. Rule over Skye passed to clan Macdonald after the Norse period and in the centuries following, control over Skye passed between various different clans.

Panoramic view of the Old Man of Storr with noisy clouds drifting over a dramatic landscape. Isle of Skye, Scotland, UK.

- © Daniel_Kay / Shutterstock

Skye has been a source of artistic inspiration for centuries. Notably, Virginia Woolf set her 1927 novel To The Lighthouse on the Isle of Skye, painters such as Sidney Richard Percey and William Turner used the beauty of the isle to influence their art and movies including Stardust (2007), Flash Gordon (1980), Macbeth (2015) and Prometheus (2012) have all used the Isle of Skye as their backdrop. 

The isle was of course immortalised in the now iconic “Skye Boat Song”, written in the late 19th century recalling Bonnie Prince Charlie’s voyage from Benbecula to Skye. The song quickly became popular and is now an essential in the Scottish folk repertoire. The song was reprised by Bear McCreary to serve as the 2014 TV show Outlander’s opening titles. 

Walking around the Isle

There’s no better way to experience the Isle and its majesty than by taking the time to walk or hike through it. It’s nature like you’ve never seen it before. Skye has a reputation for being rather misty, one of its more poetic Gaelic names is Eilean a' Cheò, which translates to "island of the mist". This is part of what makes Skye’s scenery so atmospheric and breathtaking and it’s absolutely worth witnessing it for yourself. We’ve compiled some of our favourite walks and hikes that will allow you to appreciate Skye in all its misty glory

The Quiraing Walk

Undoubtedly the most iconic walkon the Isle of Skye, the Quiraig walk is a must-do when visiting the Isle. The walk is a loop which covers a total distance of about 6.8km and the average time it takes to complete is around 2 hours without taking any breaks. The walk will take you along some of the most epic scenery Scotland has to offer. Part of the stunning Trotternish ridge, the walk takes you along the spectacular high cliffs. That said, because the walk takes you very near to the high cliffs’ edge, make sure you only undertake it on a clear day when you have excellent visibility ahead. Safety always comes first so make sure to save the misty and atmospheric walks for a different place.

The Old Man of Storr

One of the busiest walks on the Isle, the Old Man of Storr is a unique and peculiar set of rock formations that have become an emblematic landmark of the Isle of Skye and are without a doubt worth a visit. Also part of the Trotternish ridge, the pinnacle of rock was formed after an ancient landslide and is one of the most photographed sights on the isle today. The path to the Old Man of Storr is the same going both ways, covering a distance of about 3.8km, taking about 1hr 15 mins to get back to the carpark.  

The Fairy Glen

Disappointingly, the Fairy Glen has no actual history associated with fairy legends or tales but gets its name from its unusualness. The roads slither through this set of grassy-topped hills with small lochans dispersed throughout, giving the location its undeniable ethereal feel. To make the whole thing even more whimsical, one of the hills is topped by what looks like a ruin, which has garnered the name Castle Ewan, although there is no explanation as to this choice of name. You can also find a small cave in the low cliff behind Castle Ewan that is said to bring good luck to anyone who presses coins into cracks in the rock. It is recommended that visitors park in Uig and then walk about 30 minutes up to the Glen. 

Kylerhea Otter Hide

The walk to the Otter Hide is a stunning forest path along Kylerhea’s shore. The walk is short, covering around 2 km and taking about 30 minutes to complete and is a perfect easy walk for anyone, even kids, to undertake. The highlight of this walk? Arriving at the wooden hide and getting to watch some adorable otters in their natural habitat

"Ewan Castle” in Fairy Glen, Isle of Skye

- © Joe Gough / Shutterstock

Dunvegan castle & gardens

One of the most resplendent sights in Scotland, Dunvegan Castle (Caisteal Dhùn Bheagain) stands majestically over the shimmering waters of Loch Dunvegan. The castle was built in the 13th century as the seat of MacLeod of MacLeod, the chief of clan MacLeod, a function it still holds today. The castle was remodelled in the 19th century to emanate a medieval style and is located 1.6km to the north of Dunvegan. The castle is home to an impressive art collection, some of clan MacLeod’s most prized possessions such as the Fairy Flag (Am Bratach Sith) or Sir Rory Mor’s (the 15th chief) ceremonial drinking gourd and horn, and of course, the many stories, myths and legends that make up clan MacLeod’s history and which have cemented their place as a major player in Skye’s history. The castle also has 5 acres of gorgeous luscious formal gardens attached to it that were added in the 18th century. 

A proper visit to the castle takes at least around 3 hours, but planning a day trip around this visit makes perfect sense. The castle is open daily from April 1 until October 15 from 10am to 5:30pm. Parking is available and free for visitors. Guided tours are available from 10:30 am until 4:15pm. Dogs are welcome in the castle gardens

Ticket prices for visiting the castle and the gardens (booking online in advance is recommended but not mandatory): 

Adult: £16.00

Child (5-15yrs): £11.00

Students/Seniors (65yrs+): £13.00

Groups (min. 10): £13.00

Family ticket (2 adults, 4 children): £37.00

Concessions are available for Friends of Dunvegan, RHS Partner Gardens, Historic Houses Friends, BBC Gardeners World 2 for 1 and Blue Peter Badge holders. 

Dunvegan castle, on the isle of Skye, Scotland.

- © mamboo / Shutterstock

Portree

When you’re not hiking around magical landscapes or wandering through an ancient castle, take some time to discover Portree, one of the Isle’s villages.

Located on the east side of the Isle, the capital of Skye was created as a fishing village 200 years ago. It is a charming little village, perfect to get a sense of local life on the Isle. If you’re around in August, don’t miss the Highland Games the village hosts each year. 

Take some time to discover the harbour to get a sense of what makes this village so enchanting and to see the beautiful landscape it exists inside of. 

Portree also has many wonderful restaurants any foodie will be delighted to discover, such as the Scorrybreac, a tiny Michelin star restaurant that serves the most exceptional fresh food on the Isle, the Rosedale, a fantastic restaurant that serves all your favourite classic Scottish dishes, and Cafe Arriba, which is perfect for a coffee and a sweet treat with an epic view of the harbour

Talisker distillery

The Talisker Distillery is, in our humble opinion, the best Whisky experience in Scotland. Looking over the incredible scenery of the Cuillin Hills and comfortably nestled on the shores of Loch Harport in Carbost, Talisker produces some of the world’s most celebrated single malt Whisky. Established in 1830 by Hugh and Kennet McAskill, it is the oldest working distillery on the Isle. The distillery started producing and distributing special bottlings of their Whisky, producing a 20 year and a 25 year bottling. 

Touring the distillery gives you a fascinating glimpse into the Whiskey making and tasting process, and the epic setting only serves to enhance the experience. 

They offer three different tours: the Talisker Discovery Tour which gives you an excellent overview of the Whisky making process and covers the distillery’s history and includes 3 dram tastings and lasts about an hour. Tickets for this tour are 20£ per adult. The Made by the Sea Tasting Experience which, as the name suggests, is purely a guided tasting session, giving guests the opportunity to taste 3 Talisker expressions and lasts about 30 minutes. Tickets cost 15£ per adult. Finally, the Cask Draw and Tasting Experience offers guests a chance to draw Talisker whisky straight from the cask and hear the stories about the craft, passion and history that make Talisker so unique. This experience lasts an hour and a half and is available on a few select days, enquiries must be made directly in order to book. Be sure to check their website to see when you can book a tour and make sure to book in advance as tickets tend to sell out rather fast. 

Carbost, Isle of Skye, UK – May 12 2019: Aerial view of the Talisker Distillery, a single malt Scotch whisky distillery, on the west coast of Skye on the shores of Loch Harport in Carbost on the Isle

- © Will Dale / Shutterstock

Practical information about your visit

The weather in the Isle of Skye can be particularly fickle. Make sure you pack the appropriate clothes for your trip and to always keep an eye on the weather, as it can turn in the blink of an eye. 

We recommend visiting the Isle for at least two or three days, but it really depends on the activities you intend on doing during your stay. 

Our favourite hotel on the Isle of Skye

Kinloch Lodge Hotel and Restaurant Scotland
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Kinloch Lodge Hotel and Restaurant

A lovely Lodge Hotel on the South shore of Skye, Scotland.
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£420 /night
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How to get to the Isle of Skye?

By car: 

  • Driving from Glasgow takes on average 5 to 6 hours, with a total distance of 216 miles from Glasgow to Portree. The roads in the summertime tend to be busier and the drive can therefore take a little longer. Stopping in Fort William is a great way to break up the journey. 
  • The drive to Portree from Inverness is about 112 miles or 2.5 hours when the roads are quiet. 

By Plane: 

  • The nearest international airport you could fly into to get to Skye is Glasgow and the nearest local airport is Inverness

By bus: 

  • The CityLink buses offer services from both Glasgow and Inverness to Skye. Timetables are available on their website and it’s worth booking your trip in advance to ensure you get a seat on the bus that works best for your trip. 

By train: 

  • Skye doesn’t have a railway system. The closest train stations are on the mainland and are Mallaig when travelling from Glasgow and then get the ferry over to Skye, and Kyle when travelling from Inverness and then hop on a bus to the Isle. 

Getting around Skye

There is a local bus network that operates throughout the isle. The buses go village to village and are operated by Stagecoach. The timetables are available on their website

That said, driving is the preferred method of transportation on the Isle as there are some harder to reach areas. 

Some things to keep in mind for your visit

  • It is recommended to visit Skye during the summertime as the weather is more accommodating and enjoyable. 
  • Make sure to look out for local wildlife and make sure you are being safe around them and being respectful of their environment. 
  • Make sure you bring appropriate clothes, especially if you plan on hiking. 
by Val HANCOCK
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