Welcome to St Andrews, the home of golf

Though it be but little, St Andrews is an important pillar of Scottish cultural life. Globally known as the “home of golf”, St Andrews is also a place of pilgrimage and Scotland’s oldest university town. This small yet mighty coastal town is packed with vast moody sandy beaches, charming narrow streets and mysterious medieval ruins. It is an absolute gem that is sure to enchant any visitor. 

Located in Fife, about 10 miles southeast of Dundee and 30 miles northeast of Edinburgh, the town, unsurprisingly named after St Andrew, the apostle, is a wonderful destination to include in any visit to Scotland for its beauty, conviviality and quiet magnetism. It also makes for an easy day trip from Edinburgh. 

Ruins of St Andrews Cathedral in St Andrews, Scotland

- © Jule_Berlin / Shutterstock

A glimpse at St Andrews’ history

The town as we know it today was established in 1140 by Bishop Robert with the construction of St Andrews Cathedral. The town, having grown into one of the largest in medieval Scotland, not only became the ecclesial capital of Scotland, but also the country’s most important centre of pilgrimage. It rapidly became recognised worldwide as a religious point of interest, acquiring political, religious and financial importance and influence. The town’s religious significance placed it at the centre of many of the Scottish Reformation’s most crucial moments in 1559. After the Reformation and the subsequent Wars of Three Kingdoms came to an end, the town lost its status as the ecclesial capital of Scotland and fell into disarray. The Cathedral and priory fell into ruins and the university, originally established as multiple colleges (St Mary’s, St Leonard’s and St Salvador’s), were united

In the 18th century however, the town became more and more appreciated amongst golfers who returned for its high quality links. Little by little, the town expanded past its medieval roots, building houses, villas and new streets and re-established itself as one of Scotland’s most important towns.

St Andrew's Cathedral, destroyed Roman Catholic cathedral in St Andrew, Fife, Scotland.

- © essevu / Shutterstock

St Andrews Links: the home of golf

With a history dating all the way back to 1123 when King David I’s charter ratified that the Links was common ground that belonged to the townspeople, St Andrews Links is the undeniable mecca of golf and today’s ultimate authority of the golfing world.  

Throughout the 15th century, golf was being played at St Andrews and in 1552, Archbishop Hamilton cemented the town’s legacy as the home of the sport when he signed an official charter recognising the right of the people of St Andrews to play golf on the Links. Golf was becoming immensely popular throughout Scotland when in 1457, King James II outlawed the game as he deemed that young men were spending too much time golfing and not enough time practising their archery skills. The ban was subsequently lifted in 1502 by James IV, who was himself an avid golfer. 

In 1754, 22 noblemen, landowners and professors came together to found the Society of St Andrews Golfers, the precursor to what we know today as the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews which remains the governing body of golf globally, except for the United States and Mexico. 

The St Andrews Links is made up of seven public golf courses:  the Balgove, Jubilee, New, Eden, Strathtyrum, and of course, the Old Course which are all on the Links, and the Castle Course which is located towards the east of town. All the St Andrews Links courses are run by the St Andrews Links Trust, a charitable organisation.

The Old Course is renowned globally as one of the finest, and undeniably the most iconic and legendary courses in golf. Playing the Old Course at St Andrews is widely regarded as one of the greatest moments in any golfer’s life. The course evolved rather organically over the centuries but in 1865 Tom Morris returned as Keeper of the Greens and is credited with having a major impact on the course, from improving the grasses to shaping the illustrious first and eighteenth greens. 

The Old Course periodically hosts The Open Championship, the oldest golf tournament in the world and among the most prestigious. It is also one of four of men’s major golf tournaments, the others being the PGA Championship, the Masters and the U.S. Open. The Open at St Andrews has served as the backdrop for some of golf’s most legendary moments, from icon Bobby Jones lifting the Silver Jug in 1927, to golfing hero Seve Ballesteros winning in 1984 and later reflecting on his victory saying it was “The happiest moment of my whole sporting life.”, to Tiger Woods achieving a career grand slam after his victory in 2000. The Old Course hosted the Women’s British Open for the first time in 2007 and the tournament was won by Lorena Ochoa. 

All the St Andrews Links courses are public, and therefore, anyone is welcome to play. 

The Balgove Course is a nice-hole course which doesn’t require booking online in advance. You can easily book a Tee Time for the New, Castle, Jubilee, Eden and Strathtyrum Courses here

Booking a spot to play the Old Course isn’t as straightforward, as it is in high demand. To secure a Tee Time, you must enter the Ballot which is then drawn 48 hours later. You must be a group of at least two players, who can present a valid handicap card or certificate. The maximum handicap is 36 for both men and women

If you’re not a golfer, don’t worry, you can still enjoy golf’s promised land. The course is open to all on Sundays and free for anyone to wander around and take in the history of the place. 

The Old Course, Swilcan Bridge, St Andrews.

- © Julietphotography / Shutterstock

Tour the University and Ancient Monuments

The University of St Andrews is the beating heart of the town. Displaying ancient sprawling architecture, it is worth walking around the many beautiful buildings that make up the university campus. Established in 1413 under papal bull, it is the third oldest university in the English-speaking world, after Oxford and Cambridge and is made up of three colleges, United College, St Mary’s College and St Leonard’s College. Notable alumni include King James II, pioneer of the smallpox vaccine Edward Jenner, and of course, the current Prince and Princess of Wales, William and Catherine who famously met during their time studying Geography at St Andrews. If you’re in the mood to walk in the footsteps of the future King and Queen of England, then make sure you drop by Northpoint Cafe, where the pair met up for coffee, for a snack break while you tour the university. 

Next stop: exploring the ruins of St Andrews Castle and St Andrews Cathedral. These sights have a way of transporting visitors back in time. Overwhelmed by a commanding sense of calm and history, visiting the Castle on a stormy day adds a pinch of oddly atmospheric gloom to any visit to St Andrews. The castle served as the home of Scotland’s archbishop during the Middle Ages and was the site of many violent and important events of the Reformation, after which it fell into ruins. Today, the castle, perched on its cliffside, is open to the public and visitors can explore its bottle dungeon and see the beautiful Hamilton façade. 

Practical Information

  • The Castle is open daily from 1 April to 30 September: from 9.30am to 5.30pm and from 1 October to 31 March: from 10am to 4pm
  • A standard adult ticket costs £9.50. Concession tickets for seniors, and unemployed folks cost £7.50. Tickets for children aged 5 to 15 cost £5.50. All tickets can be booked online in advance

A visit to St Andrews Cathedral is not just complementary but also just as impressive. What was once Scotland’s largest and most majestic cathedral also fell into ruins after the Reformation. The cathedral, which took over a century to build, was consecrated in 1318 in the presence of Robert the Bruce, the Scottish King at the time, and became the headquarters of the Scottish Church. Today, you can wander around the site and visit the east gable of the presbytery, which once housed the relics of St Andrew, the west front and the south wall of the nave. 

Practical Information

  • The Castle is open daily from 1 April to 30 September: from 10am to 5.30pm and from 1 October to 31 March: from Friday to Sunday from 10am to 4pm, and from Monday to Thursday, from 11am to 3pm. 
  • Admission ticket prices vary based on when you plan your visit, you can find out more information about specific prices here. All tickets can be booked online in advance.

St Andrews University in St Andrews, Scotland.

- © Jiri Vondrous / Shutterstock

Browse local bookstores

It would be a shame to miss out on one of St Andrews’ greatest offerings, local and independent bookstores. In a town that exudes academia, it is only natural to spend some time browsing the shelves of bookstores and engage in intellectual discussions with strangers. 

Toppings & Co is the first and most obvious destination on any St Andrews list of must-visit bookstores. Founded in 2014 by two alumni of the university of St Andrews, the store offers a large and diverse collection of books and staff are always helpful, kind and can be trusted to give fantastic recommendations. The rustic decor of the store makes for a warm and atmospheric shopping experience. Staff often hand out tea to visitors which only enhances the overall experience. The store is located on Greyfriars Garden and is open everyday from 9am until 8:30pm

Barnando’s is a fantastic charity bookstore which allows visitors to browse for affordable second-hand books, textbooks and rare editions. The store is perfect for anyone looking to dig a little to find some literary treasures. The store is located on Bell Street and is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 until 5pm and from 11am to 4pm on Sundays

Bouquiniste specialises in antiquarian, second-hand books and Scottish and art objects.  Visitors can find almost anything in the store which makes for a fascinating visit. Open for over 40 years, Bouquiniste is a staple of St Andrews literary life and warrants a visit from anyone passing through town, if not to purchase anything then at least to enjoy the store’s whimsical atmosphere. Bouquiniste is located on the narrow Market Street and is open from Monday to Saturday from 11am to 5pm and from 1pm to 4pm on Sundays

J\&G Innes Ltd is a family-run institution passed down for over four generations. The store’s building is stunning and the sprawling oak façade itself is worth a visit. You’ll find books, stationary, art supplies, gifts of all kinds and cards. Located on South Street, in the very heart of town, the store is very easily accessible. J\&G Innes Ltd is open Monday to Saturday from 8:45am to 5:15pm and from 12:30 to 4:30pm on Sundays

Eating in St Andrews

With all that golfing and exploring, there’s no doubt you’ll have built up a healthy appetite. We’ve compiled a list of our favourite spots to eat in town. 

If you want to keep the golf theme going, you can dine on the Links. The Tom Morris Bar offers an excellent selection of traditional Scottish dishes and is perfect for a lunchtime treat. The Rock & Spindle offers breathtaking views of the Castle Course and the rough Fife coastline and is the perfect spot to enjoy Scottish gastropub classics in a modern clubhouse setting. Cafe Spike, located in the Eden clubhouse, offers simple but delicious clubhouse classics and is a perfect casual spot for a post-golf meal or snack* 

Forgan’s is the perfect place to wine and dine with friends and family. The gorgeous farmhouse-like setting is enchanting and it is a pleasure to enjoy the restaurant’s wonderful selection of dishes using local Scottish produce. Forgan’s is located on Market Street, in the heart of town. 

For an incomparable seafood dinner experience, The Seafood Ristorante is the place to be. Offering spectacular coastal views, the restaurant uses fresh, sustainable and locally sourced produce to create some of the most exquisite seafood dishes. If you’re looking for a way to treat yourself while visiting St Andrews, we can’t recommend this place enough. 

Rufflets specialise in harvesting produce from their very own garden to create dishes unlike any other. All their meals are bursting with colour and freshness and the overall dining experience feels luxurious and intimate. Rufflets is located West of the St Andrews Town Centre, approximately 5 minutes driving. 

The Adamson is a fantastic spot for getting drinks or dinner. You’ll be treated to a varied drinks menu and some excellent classic dishes. The atmosphere is lively and makes for a perfect social spot to go with friends. 

For an authentic Scottish pub experience, head to The Jigger Inn. This pub not only serves some excellent pub classics but also offers stunning views of the Old Course’s iconic nineteenth hole. 

Practical information about your visit

Not only will you be in Scotland, but you’ll be in coastal Scotland, which means you need to be prepared for the weather to be even more capricious than usual. The weather in St Andrews can turn in a heartbeat so make sure you bring all the appropriate clothes. And do not, under any circumstance, forget your umbrella! 

Depending on the activities you want to do when in town, you’ll either want to stay no more than a couple days or a little longer if you want to play multiple golf courses for example.

Our favourite hotel in St Andrews

Rusacks St Andrews Scotland
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Rusacks St Andrews

A lovely mansion house hotel located by the Old Course in St Andrews centre, Scotland.
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£267 /night
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How to get to St Andrews?

By car: 

  • Driving to St Andrews is relatively straightforward, the town is heavily signposted within Fife. This is the easiest way to get to St Andrews. 
  • From Edinburgh, the drive is roughly an hour and 20 minutes
  • From Dundee, expect a quick half-hour car journey
  • From Glasgow, the drive takes around 1 hour and 45 minutes
  • Parking is available but limited as St Andrews is a small town. 

By bus: 

  • The Stagecoach Fife 99 runs from Dundee all the way to St Andrews and is a good way to get around. 

By train: 

  • The nearest train station to the town is Leuchars, which is about 6 miles away from the town centre. From the station, visitors can easily drive or get a taxi or a bus (Fife 99) to St Andrews centre. 

Getting around St Andrews

St Andrews is a small town so you can comfortably get around it by foot, and what better way to experience the town than by walking?

Some things to keep in mind for your visit

  • For a shot at seeing a single ray of sunshine, visiting during the Summer is your best bet. But St Andrews is a wonderful place to explore year-round
  • English pound notes are accepted, like everywhere else in Scotland but card and contactless payments are preferred
  • If you’re going golfing, decide in advance whether you want to bring your own clubs or rent them out on sight
by Val HANCOCK
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