A couple of days away celebrating the summer solstice in Cornwall

There’s a warmth that emanates from celebrating the summer solstice. Often overlooked, the annual promise of sunny weather, hot nights, gentle mornings and dazzling sunsets is worthy of celebration. The solstice, or midsummer, usually occurs on June 20th or 21st and marks the longest day of the year, when one of the Earth’s poles is the most tilted towards the sun.

In Cornish tradition, the ancient celebrations of the summer solstice are called Golowan, the Cornish word for Midsummer. Widespread throughout the region for centuries before the 19th century, Golowan is a pagan celebration of the summer solstice in which fireworks, bonfires and other associated rituals take place. Revived in the 20th century by the Old Cornwall Society, Golowan is now a festival event that attracts thousands of visitors each year and which culminates in Mazey Day. The cultural and artistic core of the festival takes place in Penzance, but other celebrations and bonfires take place throughout Cornwall for the occasion.

Midsummer bonfire on the beach.

- © gadag / Shutterstock

Day 1: Head to Penzance

It’s the end of June and you’ve decided to head down to Cornwall just in time for Golowan. Your first stop needs to be Penzance. Get there nice and early to make the most of your day and make your way to the city centre.  Street parking is available and easier to access the earlier you get there. Drop your bags off at the hotel and head back out for a Midsummer adventure. 

In the last hours of the morning, head to the Tremenheere sculpture gardens and bask in the beauty of these endlessly surprising gardens. Golowan is all about celebrating nature and what it’s given us so the stunning sculpture gardens are the perfect place to reflect on this and take a moment to feel the summer solstice’s impact. 

Head back into town for lunch and treat yourself to The Shore on Alverton Street. This small sophisticated spot offers a daily menu with various dishes based on fresh and local seafood. The dishes are inventive and make for an exciting one-of-a-kind culinary experience.

Once you’ve finished your meal, take the afternoon to take in the town’s Golowan celebrations and explore the little quirks and peculiarities of this time of year. Wander around the narrow streets of the town centre and watch the many parades or make your way to the Quay front where a fair is organised, featuring musical entertainment and various stalls. St John’s Hall also hosts wicker and paper mache creation stations, a great option if you’re weekending with children.  

In the evening, head to the Mexico Inn, a charming and cosy restaurant that serves colourful, comforting dishes that are sure to satisfy even the pickiest eaters. Make sure you book your table in advance as it can get busy during Golowan celebrations. Head toward the seafront after your meal to see the sun set on the longest day of the year and perhaps catch a bonfire or two after dark. We also love to watch the sunset at Lanyon Quoit, a dolmen located near Madron which is just outside of Penzance city centre. The historical landmark with the setting sun in its rear really adds to the Midsummer feel. 

Sunset over Lanyon Quoit.

- © Helen Hotson / Shutterstock

Where are you checking into?

The Artist Residence is a stunning 17th century space that has been updated to fit modern standards, while managing to retain its personality and original spirit. The rooms are unique and spacious, with excellent amenities. The hotel is in a great location, a five minute walk to the seafront and the Railway station is also nearby. The overall feel is very welcoming and warm and makes for the perfect stay during Golowan. Be sure to book far in advance as rooms get booked up way in advance, especially at this time of year.

Artist Residence Cornwall Cornwall

Artist Residence Cornwall

Each room at the 17th-century Artist Residence is uniquely designed in an eclectic, rustic style, featuring a curated collection of limited edition artworks, with free WiFi for guests.
From
£433 /night
Book!

Day 2: Explore Newlyn

The next morning, head to the Front Room on Market Jew Street for some delicious breakfast. We cannot recommend the American Style Pancakes enough. The ambiance is cosy and the food is always excellent, making for a highly satisfying breakfast experience. 

Head out to explore Newlyn, a small harbour town a short drive from Penzance. The small seaside town is full of quaint narrow streets and really comes alive during the Golowan season when it puts on its own festivities, much like Penzance. 

Sunrise at Newly harbour

- © Scott Garfitt / Shutterstock

From the harbour, you can also get wonderful views of St Michael’s Mount, the ancient isle and its imposing castle so be sure to take the time to head down towards the water and go for a quiet walk around. 

Before it’s time to head back home, grab lunch at argoe, a delightful restaurant that specialises in seafood dishes made with fresh local ingredients and curated with the utmost care and attention to detail. Overlooking Newlyn port, you get a real sense of local Newly fishing life and how locals produce such high quality food. 

by Val HANCOCK
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