While in Lyon the bouchons are an institution, and in Paris the bouillons are a must, it's the estaminets that have the upper hand in Lille! These little places with their typical Flemish decor welcome locals and tourists with a taste for Nordic specialities. Home of Chips, beer and maroilles, Lille has a wealth of unmissable dishes that keep the body warm! Once a place for men to have a drink after work, these are now the institutions that liven up the streets of the capital of Flanders, with the flavours and smells perfuming the surrounding area. Vintage decor, rustic furniture and unique stories are all part of these historic addresses, each more renowned than the last. Discover the warmth of the north, through the staff, the food and the setting, in the best-known estaminets of Old Lille!
Today's estaminets are renowned for offering typical local dishes in a friendly atmosphere, but their original purpose was very different! Frequented exclusively by men, generally workers, the establishments offered beer, tobacco and games, for a moment of relaxation after work.
Traditionally located in the centre of Walloon and Flemish villages, in old houses, schools, farms or barns, these cafés - restaurants - meeting places have survived the centuries, retaining their essence.
Witnesses of the past, the wooden furniture, rustic kitchen utensils and vintage decor create a unique atmosphere that is as popular with tourists as it is with the locals. Synonymous with conviviality and letting go, speculation about the origin of the term is rife! Between Walloons and Flemish, the rivalry over the birth of the name is eternal, with each side defending its roots. At the time, nearly 300 establishments were opened in the northern regions, some of which even housed grocery shops and farriers.
After a while of only serving drinks, these places have opened up more to gastronomy, starting to serve dishes typical of the region. The secret of the recipes is common: home cooking, where calories don't count! The menu includes welsh, Flemish carbonade, Maroilles cheese and chips, all accompanied by a traditional pint of beer.
A long simmered beef stew, Flemish carbonade is prepared in a casserole dish with plenty of beer and onions. The more traditional cooks add gingerbread and brown sugar, for an unmistakable authenticity. To accompany it all, the inevitable chips, cooked in beef fat, take their place on the plate.
Undoubtedly the most comforting but greasy dish in Lille, welsh is a must-have on any trip to the city. Cooked in a caquelon, it's a mixture of beer, bread, cheddar, mustard and ham that's gratinated before being served with a few chips. The ideal dish before a (very) long walk through the streets of Vieux Lille or the Citadelle!
To be eaten cold, potjevleesch is a combination of rabbit, pork, veal and poultry, traditionally marinated in beer or white wine. In the estaminets, it is once again Chips that accompany this terrine served in jelly.
On the sweet side, the combination of meringue, whipped cream and chocolate shavings creates the succulent recipe for marvellous! To try them, we recommend the flagship store: Aux Merveilleux de Fred, to be found in the historic shop in Vieux-Lille after a light meal... or not, in an estaminet. For a snack between a welsh and a Flemish carbonade, opt for the vanilla waffle from Meert, an institution!
The picturesque setting, authentic atmosphere and intimate terrace make the estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille one of the most emblematic in the capital of Flanders. Nestling on the corner of Place aux Oignons, this address is just as popular with tourists as it is with the locals, and every day it delights taste buds in search of maroilles and hearty dishes.
Would you prefer welsh, Flemish carbonade, potjevleesch or maroilles? If you're still hesitating, head for Les Ptiots, where you can try all the specialities on a single plate!
In the Rue de Gand, the pavement is littered with estaminets, each with its own address. At Chez Raoul, the atmosphere of the north plays with a decor that combines modernity and tradition, in this place dedicated to the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde. As in any good estaminet, Chips, cheese and beer are the order of the day... but don't miss the delicious mussels, for which the place is famous during the Lille braderie!
At La Petite Table, the meal is without fuss, with only a few place settings and a warm welcome - the very essence of an estaminet! Welsh with chorizo or chicken fillet with maroilles go perfectly with a Belgian or French beer, before a delicious Merveilleux de chez Fred for dessert.
