Stop off at La Scala, Milan's opera house

A landmark of the city of Lombardy, the Royal Theatre was a veritable meeting place for the socialites of the 18th century. Originally, it was almost impossible to hear the music because the auditorium was so noisy. The artists performed in a general cacophony. Milan's notables of the time frequented the opera house on a daily basis, and it was nothing more than a pretext for getting together, until it was ravaged by a terrible fire in 1776.

The city decided to rebuild a new theatre and took advantage of this opportunity to enlarge the auditoriums and, consequently, change the location. The project took place on the site of the former church of Santa Maria della Scala. It took just two years for the brand new Teatro della Scala to emerge from the ground. It could now accommodate 3,000 spectators. Wealthy owners invested in dressing rooms that were individually decorated (carpets, furniture, fabrics, etc.) and helped to produce the shows. The new address was inaugurated at the end of the 18th century.

The theatre's reputation took off when the Duke of Visconti appointed a new artistic director, Arturo Toscanini, who made a name for himself on the international stage. Thanks to his talent and professionalism, the New York Opera recruited only artists from the Milanese scene. The prestigious theatre underwent a complete overhaul just after the end of the Second World War. The theatre had been damaged by aerial bombardments in 1943. The new version was inaugurated in 1946, much to the excitement of the people of Milan, who were eager to return to this much-loved venue. Since then, the opera house has enjoyed a legendary reputation, delighting audiences with magnificent opera performances such as The Marriage of Figaro and making the entire nation proud.

What does La Scala mean? Why does the opera house bear this name? These are some of the most frequently asked questions when visiting the opera house. La Scala translates as "the staircase" in French, but that's not the real explanation. The stage owes its nobility to its location on the remains of the church of Santa Maria della Scala, which bears the name of its founders, a family of notables of Veronese origin. It's worth noting that their coat of arms features a ladder...

Sober on the outside...

The architecture of the building is relatively simple. This sobriety is explained by its position in the city: when the new theatre was built, it was located in a rather narrow street and lacked outdoor space. Today, this is no longer the case, since the Piazza della Scala is right in front of it, but it was necessary to demolish old residences dating back to the Middle Ages in order to build this esplanade. And in a bid to harmonise the area, the building opposite the theatre has also been given a facelift.

If you take a closer look at the entrance to this prestigious venue, you will see that it is set back. The façade of the opera house is flanked by a large porch that was designed to accommodate carriages. In this way, women could get out of the vehicles while remaining sheltered on rainy evenings. At the top is a triangular pediment in the neoclassical style.

Once you enter the Comédie, the magic happens. This building was designed with lyrical performances in mind, and it shows! The building houses a stage adorned with sumptuous scarlet velvet curtains. The immense red and gold auditorium features a parterre of chic red-tinted furniture, a splendid suspended chandelier and is surrounded by dressing rooms spread over 4 floors. The décor is a testament to the wealth of the venue and the splendour of the era.

In this immensity, it's easy to imagine the conversations intermingling in a general racket. A packed auditorium that must have been like a beehive in celebration. Today, the hall hosts ballets, operas, chamber music concerts... and even creations for younger audiences. In short, there's something for every taste and every budget. La Scala also has temporary exhibitions, a museum and historical archives that help to preserve the heritage of this legendary venue.

What should I wear to La Scala?

There's no dress code, so there's no need to pack anything too fancy. On the other hand, you shouldn't adopt a totally unkempt look (shorts, flip-flops, etc.). A clean, casual outfit will do the trick.

The Opera

📍 Location: the theatre is just 1 minute's walk from the Vittorio Emmanuele II gallery.

🚌 Getting there: accessible by tram, take line 1 and stop at "Teatro Alla Scala".

👛 Price:

Ticket prices vary depending on the performance, but we advise patrons to book well in advance. Some shows can be jam-packed with enthusiasts.

👉 Access rules:

Since summer 2022, it is no longer necessary to wear a sanitary mask inside the theatre.

You can enter the theatre 45 minutes before the start of each performance.

The museum

👛 Price :

• Full price - €12

• Discount - €8 (students, senior citizens aged 65 and over, visitors with a Gallerie d'Italia or Amici di Brera ticket)

• Family - €18 (for 2 adults and 1 or 2 children under 12)

⏰ Opening times :

• Open Monday to Sunday from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm (last admission is at 5 pm).

• 24 and 31 December from 9.30am to 3pm (last admission at 2.30pm)

👉 Exceptional closures:

25 and 26 December, 1 January, Easter, 1 May and 15 August.

Guided tours :

If you want to go further, there is an option to explore the theatre accompanied by a tour guide in English, French or Italian. The price is around €27 with museum admission included.

For full details, click here.

In a retro setting straight out of the 60s, Risoelatte is an address where traditional Italian cuisine is served. Risotto is served in old crockery and tiramisu is served in grandma's coffee cups. Formica furniture and linen are hung in a cosy atmosphere.