The Basilica of Saint Ambrose in Milan, Lombard tradition written in stone

This building is one of the oldest in Milan. Located in Piazza San Ambrose, it represents the legacy of the early Christian and Romanesque eras. It is considered to be the second most important religious monument after the Duomo cathedral. Consecrated by Saint Ambrose, its purpose was to house the bodies of Christian martyrs. Destroyed and rebuilt, the building went through a number of ups and downs during its lifetime. Today, virtually nothing remains of the original construction, although it has preserved the style of Lombard architecture.

The exterior does not follow traditional architectural codes, with two towers framing the building. Another special feature is a loggia decorated with several semi-circular arcades supported by columns topped with capitals. The two outer turrets are not the same size. The larger one, known as the canons' campanile, dates from the twelfth century, while the smaller one, the monks' campanile, was built in the ninth century. The atmosphere outside contrasts shar ply between the darkness of the loggia and the brightness reflected on the façade of the basilica. A great photo opportunity!

The architectural complex comprises a monastery, a presbytery, a church and a basilica, and adopts a longitudinal form, a characteristic that characterises early Christian monuments and Romanesque art. To the right of the entrance is the monastery, with a cloister designed by the architect Bramante. The facade of the basilica adopts a double-sloped Italianate shape. The walls are wide and have no particular relief. It consists of two loggias, a lower level framing an atrium. A bronze sculpture of a snake can be seen on one of the columns. This is believed to be Moses' serpent, which, according to Milanese legend, heralds the end of the world.

Inside, there are 3 naves and 3 apses with several chapels. The most important are undoubtedly the Sacello di San Vittore, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, the Chapel of Saints Bartolomeo and Satiro, the Chapel of the Deposition and the Chapel of Saint George. The huge choir is topped by a dome. Beneath the pulpit is the sarcophagus of Stilicho, whose bas-reliefs depict biblical scenes. In the crypt, you can find the remains of saints such as the skeletons of Saint-Ambroise, Saint-Gervais and Saint-Protais.

The Devil's Column

This Cipollino marble column is located to the left of the basilica. Its origins remain obscure, and visitors are left wondering about its distinctive style compared to neighbouring buildings. According to legend, Saint Ambrose stumbled upon the devil during a morning walk. He tried to corrupt her, and a fierce battle ensued between the two protagonists. The saint violently drove the satanic force into the stone marked by the two horns, still visible to this day. Sensitive souls please!

The Temple of Victory

Also known as the Monument to the Fallen, this is a memorial dedicated to the Milanese who fell in the war, right next to the church. It is octagonal in shape and made of white marble. The sides of the mausoleum face in the direction of the various city gates, in memory of the soldiers who left the city for the battlefields.

For meat lovers, we recommend Osteria la Carbonaia, a typical tavern founded by Enrico Giuntoni, whose speciality is T-bone meat presented in a variety of forms and cooked to perfection. Other specialities, such as pasta alla carbonaia (the house's signature recipe) and homemade macaroni, are also on the menu of this delicious restaurant.