Marvel at the immensity of Tsavo Park

The tranquillity of the Kenyan landscape is no indication of the turbulent past that the country's natural areas have had to endure. Indeed, geological and volcanic events have turned its history upside down. Magnificent lava flows have left their mark in the park. Tsavo Park is as big as Amboseli is small. Covering an area of almost 20,800 km2 (the size of Slovenia), it is one of the largest and most important national parks in the world. So big, in fact, that it was split into Tsavo East and Tsavo West, separated by a railway road linking Nairobi to the coastal town of Mombassa.

The east of the park is not the most visited part of the country. In fact, it covers such a large area that it is difficult to cover all of it, and few guides know every nook and cranny. It is mainly visited by safari enthusiasts in search of privacy. However, it is possible to observe a large number of animals, and all the African mammals live here. It is even home to the largest herd of elephants in the country.

The park, which is surprisingly vast, was created in 1948 and is managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service. Linked to Tsavo West National Park, it is one of the world's most extensive preserved ecosystems for wildlife watching. Together, the two parks cover almost 4% of Kenya's surface area. Tsavo East is semi-arid and most of the park is flat, but there are also rocky ridges.

The Yatta plateau has a long, flat-topped lava ridge. Below the ridge, the Athi River flows peacefully, much appreciated by the animals for quenching their thirst. It joins the Tsavo River not far from the Lugards Falls, which become the Galana River, ending its course in the Indian Ocean. Most safaris take place along the Galana River. But Tsavo East is best known for its bright red earth.

We venture into Tsavo East Park to meet the large herds of elephants that populate this savannah tinted a fiery red. Indeed, the elephants of Tsavo East are renowned for their ochre colour due to their dust bath. Elephants do this to protect their skin from the sun and regulate their body temperature. Elephants have no sweat glands, so they cannot sweat and cool themselves naturally.

Soil also helps to protect their hides from parasites, which can be very harmful to their survival. They use their trunks to spray dust (or mud), but this can be a lengthy process, so some prefer to roll directly on the ground. Note that elephants are not the only ones to use this technique, and the animals of Tsavo East proudly sport a more pinkish coat than the others.

Like its twin to the east, Tsavo West is so vast that wildlife spotting is more difficult than in the country's other parks. However, if you take your time and arm yourself with a little patience, you'll be able to spot a good number of wild animals. What's more, nowhere else will you have the feeling of being alone in the world in a wildlife reserve that is as flamboyant as it is wild.

As in Amboseli National Park, Tsavo West is a veritable oasis. Sail along the river in search of buffalo straight out of a mud bath. And don't miss the chance to meet the adorable diks-diks, dwarf antelopes barely 45 centimetres high at the withers. Very shy, they scurry away in a matter of seconds, as soon as you take your camera out.

Giant saplings, doum trees and other palm trees mingle with the crystal-clear pools of Mzima Springs. Here, hippopotamuses crowd together for refreshing swims in these exceptional bodies of water. They are unique in that they are fed directly by the melting glaciers of the majestic Kilimanjaro.

The permanent presence of water feeds this oasis of greenery, in stark contrast to the more arid savannah environment that surrounds it. The site also boasts a small underwater observatory, allowing you to get up close and personal with the river's crocodiles and hippos. Note that it is very rare to be able to observe these animals in such clear water.