Hiking in the Karura urban forest

Nairobi, Kenya's energetic and modern capital, is often the starting point for majestic and iconic East African safaris. However, this metropolis offers more and more attractive activities and attracts more and more tourists for a few days. Restaurants, bars, shopping, nightlife - the city is undoubtedly developing into one of the country's unmissable destinations. Amid this urban cacophony, don't miss the Karura urban forest, a veritable oasis of greenery right in the heart of the city and just 15 minutes from Nairobi's most popular districts. Here you'll find a bamboo jungle, caves and three rivers with waterfalls almost 15 metres high. Families, lovers and friends often come together in this little urban jungle to enjoy beautiful hikes on trails that can cover almost 50 kilometres.

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Karura Forest is a must-see in Kenya. Behind the hustle and bustle of Nairobi's business district lies a haven of peace, the second largest urban forest in the world. A veritable phoenix rising from the ashes, the 565-hectare park was threatened by property developers who wanted to take over the area in response to the city's ever-increasing population. This is a sign of resistance to the land grabbing that is common practice in Kenya. Kenya's forests are cut down by almost 5,000 hectares every year. Karura is thus surviving the massive development of Nairobi and providing a bubble of oxygen for its inhabitants.

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In addition, the park has a sulphurous past and had a bad reputation, a very bad reputation. Indeed, it was not uncommon for many crimes and assaults to take place there. In the past, it was home to more criminals and bandits than walkers in search of fresh air. Urban legends about the park were rife and used to frighten children. However, even the policemen and other rangers dreaded their turn on guard in this urban forest. But today, Karura has risen from the ashes and offers an exceptional, peaceful and extremely safe setting for all its day-trippers.

© Nick Owuor / Shutterstock

The park welcomes almost 30,000 visitors a month, compared with 0 in 2009. In the space of just 10 years, this dangerous criminal territory has become one of the most sought-after places in the Kenyan capital. A veritable Eden in the midst of the thundering din that numbs every capital. To transform this park, the association "Friends of the Forest", which co-manages the park, decided to install an electric fence to turn it into a protected area.

So, slowly but surely, the bandits are leaving the area to make way for walkers, hikers and runners. To achieve this, in 2005, the town allowed poor residents to contribute to the preservation of the park in exchange for money and food. Its metamorphosis has been a real success for the city, even if the threat of property developers is never far away. As a result, native tree species have taken root where trees brought by settlers were introduced.

Where to stay near the park?

The Curve by the Park Nairobi

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What do we do there?

Guards have now been installed around the park to ensure everyone's safety and well-being. In 2011, the forest officially became a leisure and ecotourism area. What's more, a campsite has even been set up there. There are a number of hiking trails, including the famous "Family Trail", a 5-kilometre path leading to magnificent caves that the locals consider sacred.

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A real breath of fresh air in the capital, the forest is home to numerous footpaths and walks. Nearly 50 kilometres of more or less easy walks are available for you to enjoy a day of total relaxation with your family, friends or loved ones. What's more, you'll find some magnificent waterfalls here, where nature is fascinating and truly in the limelight.

Karura Forest also boasts a number of beautiful cycle paths for you to enjoy in complete safety. The park is so large that you'll sometimes feel like you're alone in the world, even though you're in the heart of a sprawling East African city. It has captured the hearts of all Nairobians and is now waiting for you.

© JaiFotomania / Shutterstock

What's more, you'll be able to spot over 350 different species of bird. There are several trails to choose from. According to the locals, the best route is the Sykes Monkey Trail Loop. This trail is 4.8 kilometres long and lasts around 1 hour. This makes the walk accessible to a wide range of day walkers. There are 5 signposted trails, and the longest walk is around 12 kilometres. Allow between 3h and 3h30 for the route.

Practical information

It costs 600 Ksk for tourists (around 6 dollars) to enter the park, which is open from 6 a.m. for the early joggers to 6 p.m. There is a café in the park, Sigiria Coffee, where you can quench your thirst and eat after a nice walk. Make sure you book in advance, though, as it is often full and extremely popular at weekends. If you're going on longer or shorter walks, don't forget to take water and a few snacks with you.

by Lena COLLINS
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