The thousand-coloured staircases of Selaron

A real jewel of Rio de Janeiro, the Selaron staircases are a must-see attraction when you visit the "marvellous city". Brightly coloured, with tiles from the four corners of the world and hand-painted mosaics, these staircases represent Rio and Brazilians perfectly: a joyful, welcoming and colourful people!

Brazil's most famous steps are made up of 2000 tiles, laid one by one by hand by the creator of this work of art, Jorge Selaron. If you have a little time, take a closer look at these tiles. Each piece tells its own story. This mythical place is at the heart of Carioca life, linking the bohemian neighbourhoods of Santa Teresa and Lapa.

Selaron stairs

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The history of the Selaron staircase

Renovation of the stairs began in 1994 for the football World Cup, but the project soon became an obsession for Chilean Jorge Selaron. For him, it was an opportunity to pay tribute to the Brazilians, whom he adores. Having settled in the city in the 1980s, this Carioca by adoption went to construction sites to find the tiles that today form the giant mosaic on rue Manuel Carneiro.

He mainly chose the colours blue, green and yellow, a tribute to the colours of the Brazilian flag. The work became a worldwide symbol of the unity of peoples and nations. Jorge continued to collect cobblestones every day, transforming them into tiles for his work of art. He received hundreds of them from numerous travellers. Almost 30 years later, the 215 steps are now covered with souvenirs and finds from over 120 countries.

Selaron saw his masterpiece as the passers-by who climbed up and down his steps: constantly evolving. He therefore declared that "this crazy and unique dream would not end until the day (he) died". In 2013, he was found lifeless on the steps of his beloved staircase. The circumstances of his death remain a mystery... Those close to him say that he was depressed, but an interview with the ceramist in the Brazilian newspaper "O Globo" published on the day of his death casts doubt on the suicide theory. The artist was apparently receiving death threats from a former colleague.

Selaron stairs

- © f11photo / Shutterstock

Jorge took all his secrets with him to the grave. Of the 2,000 tiles, 300 are painted by Selaron. They all depict the same image of a pregnant African woman. The author has never commented on the exact origin of this portrait, but simply says that she was an important person from his past. So it's up to you to find the answer! Linger over the details of the portraits of this anonymous woman, and you might just find the key to this mystery.

And if the crazy story of Jorge Selaron wasn't enough to convince you to come and marvel at the beauty of the thousand-coloured staircase, here are a few amusing anecdotes!

International music stars have filmed their videos on the steps. Snoop Dogg & Pharrell Williams shot the video for their hit "Beautiful" and U2 the video for "Walk On".

The staircase also features in the city's bid video for the 2016 Olympic Games.

In short, the whole world can't get enough of this life-size work of art!

Santa Teresa's little train

- © Mikolaj Niemczewski / Shutterstock

How do I get there?

If you want to go down the stairs without climbing them (after all, there are 215 steps), you can! The little train or "bondinho de Santa Teresa" leaves from the city centre or "centro " and goes up to the top of Santa Teresa hill. Along the way, you'll find plenty of little restaurants to give you ideas for lunch, as well as numerous attractions such as the mountain of the two brothers, the ruins museum and the Lapa arches.

The train departs from 2 Rua Lélio Gama every 20 minutes, and tickets cost 20 reals (€3.50). The journey is free for students and over-65s! There are only 35 seats available on the train, so make sure you're ready when it departs, as it's likely to fill up quickly!

Tickets can be purchased at the station or by calling +(21) 2332-6615.

Lapa's arches

- © lazyllama / Shutterstock

What to do in the area and where to stay

After studying the different designs, motifs and mirrors at length, continue strolling through the "bairros" (neighbourhoods) of Lapa and Santa Teresa.

The Lapa district

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Day or night, these two districts are among the city's most pleasant places to be. Lapa is famous for its nightlife. If you like to dance, there's something for everyone. With its traditional bars, discos, concert halls and open-air samba improvisation sessions, you'll be spoilt for choice. In short, when night falls, become a true Carioca! What's more, locals often meet up on the Selaron stairs to keep the party going.

Don't feel like dancing? The daytime is also very pleasant, with lovers of design and clothing flocking to Lapa to browse the second-hand and antique shops. Do Lavradio and Do Senado streets are particularly well known for these types of shops.

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After a bit of window-shopping and shopping in the shops of Lapa, head back up the street via the Selaron stairs. Try to unravel the secret of the pregnant woman and if you give up, continue your stroll to Santa Teresa. Located at the top of the hill of the same name, this corner of Rio de Janeiro is extremely picturesque. "Santa", as the Cariocas call it, is full of magnificent old mansions, some of which have even been renovated and turned into hotels.

The mansions of Santa Teresa

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The cultural centre of Rio, this veritable village within the city boasts a number of museums, including the Museu da Chácara do Céu, devoted to Brazilian and European art. The collection is housed in an absolutely sumptuous villa overlooking the Bay of Rio.

After dark, it's the perfect opportunity to share a dinner with friends and family. With a breathtaking view over the city, savour traditional Brazilian dishes such as pao de queijo (a delicious cheese puff pastry) or slow-roasted hearts of palm with pesto sauce.

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Selaron stairs

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The Selaron staircase brilliantly bridges the gap between the frenetic pace of Lapa and the tranquillity of Santa Teresa. A must-see, just like this lively city. And if you're lucky enough to be passing through during the carnival period (end of February), we recommend you go dancing in this area. The street parties or "blocos da rua" are the event of the year. Most Brazilians meet up for an afternoon on these stairs, emblematic of a warm and joyful people.

by Lena COLLINS
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