Place Pie, a mix of history, shops and nature

It's hard to imagine that this square was once a stately home. The dean of the University of Avignon, Lord Parpaille, took up residence here. Because of his religious beliefs, his house was destroyed in 1562 and he lost his life in the process. As nature abhors a vacuum, the space vacated was transformed into a pretty square, which was named after the Pope, Pius IV. A few metres further on, you can see a tower with a medieval look that bears witness to the square's heavy past and the passage of time... In a completely different vein, a huge green wall faces the historic tower and houses modern covered markets. A living space that opens its doors at dawn to welcome restaurateurs, locals and tourists in search of the city's best produce. But it's not just a covered market, it also hosts a wide range of cultural events. We take you on a tour of this square of a thousand activities.

Place Pie and Tour Saint-Jean, Avignon, France.

- © ldgfr photos / Shutterstock
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A central and dynamic location

A lively place, the square wakes up at the crack of dawn with the covered market, which opens its doors at 6am to welcome traders, restaurateurs looking to stock up on ingredients for their restaurants or simply early risers in search of flavours.

Situated in the centre of the papal city, just a stone's throw from the shopping area and where pedestrians are king, Place Pie is one of the prettiest squares in the city. The imposing plane trees that tower over the square add to its charm and coolness on hot summer days. Don't panic if little white tiger beetles appear on your clothes, they come from the trees and are completely harmless to humans, but be careful, they can be itchy.

Passers-by on Place Pie, Avignon, France.

- © Baloncici / 123RF

The Tour Saint-Jean, a reminder of times gone by

Amid the bars and restaurants stands the Tour Saint-Jean, a 13th-century Gothic vestige that served as a refuge for the Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem. The district was then known as "Saint-Jean-le-Vieux". It once belonged to a group of buildings that were demolished in 1893 by the current Mayor to extend the Place Pie. The series of battlements and merlons give it the appearance of a fortified castle turret. Although the tower dates back to ancient times, it is still very well preserved.

Tour Saint-Jean on Place Pie, Avignon, France.

- © Anamaria Mejia / Shutterstock

It is located on the Place Saint-Jean, next to the Place Pie. The two areas form a single whole. Every week, markets and second-hand goods stalls are set up in the square to fill the huge area, attracting huge crowds. Locals and tourists like to mix and mingle to create a lively atmosphere.

The Halles market, a temple of flavours

This gigantic market is the gastronomic heart of Avignon. With over 40 traders, it's the temple of taste and fresh produce, showcasing regional products and giving pride of place to our Provence. It's a place for sharing, a buzz of life in a comforting atmosphere with familiar smells and sometimes a little accent singing in the corner of a conversation. Let yourself be guided by the professionals, who are happy to let you taste their products and give you recipe tips.

Basket of several varieties of tomatoes from a local producer, Avignon, France.

- © Ganna Zelinska / Shutterstock

As well as being a landmark for gourmets, it has also become a cultural space. The city's associations and other institutions work with the market to offer a cultural programme of unique events and activities. It's a place that comes alive from morning till night, making it an essential part of Avignon life. Whether you're enjoying an aperitif with friends, an evening out as a couple or a family outing, the aim is to have a good time, and the Halles is the place to do it.

Red wine tasting in the covered market.

- © barmalini / Shutterstock

Les Halles d'Avignon is also home to "La Petite Cuisine" workshops presented by some of the region's top chefs, who will be sharing their secrets and tips on how to improve your recipes. Every Saturday at 11am, meet next to the south entrance to the warehouse to watch the chefs demonstrate their skills in the open kitchen. For the record, the cookers are available to the public for those who want to share a recipe.

A chef prepares a gourmet dish.

- © Roman Chazov / Shutterstock

When nature becomes part of the urban landscape

Outside the Halles is a gigantic green wall on the north facade of the building. As part of an ambitious project, the city of Avignon has redesigned its city centre to make it greener. In 2006, the City of the Popes undertook to install a green wall inside the ramparts. The project was entrusted to Patrick Blanc, a professional botanist who has worked on major projects such as the Musée des Arts Premiers in Paris.

An irrigation system was devised to keep the green wall fresh and its authentic green colour. It's a veritable garden of Eden on the façade of the Halles, which the people of Avignon are sure to admire every time they pass through the district. And there's plenty to be proud of when you see these 600 m² of greenery running along the walls of an artificial structure. It's an architectural feat that reflects the city's efforts to make room for our beautiful natural surroundings.

Where to eat in Place Pie?

Café Saint-Jean is a bistronomic restaurant located right next to the Tower of the same name. Whether you're looking for breakfast, a sweet break or a business lunch, the restaurant caters for all occasions and offers a varied menu in a friendly atmosphere. In summer, you can enjoy your meal on the terrace, with a lovely view of the historic skyscraper and its surroundings.

Where to stay in Avignon?

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by Jude JONES
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