Carcassonne in a weekend: our best itinerary!

Carcassonne is a world unto itself.

Vast but criss-crossed by streets and alleyways, protective but open-air, imposing but teeming like Occitania, the medieval city is like a maelstrom that takes you everywhere. As you wish, of course. Seen from above, its map resembles the board of a board game, with its monuments, stages and compulsory passages.

If you want to sample all the attractions, which is probably the case given that you've come a long way, you'll ideally need several days. Especially if you're a fan of good food and good wine, where time stands still while you chat with the angels, the motivation that brought so many of them here in the first place. And to come back.

Of course, if you're only here for a weekend, it's a different story. That said, to get the gist of it all, 2 days will suffice, as long as you've prepared well for your short stay and don't stay too long at the table!

The beautiful ramparts of the medieval city

- © Jaysi / 123RF

DAY 1 - The Hôtel de la Cité, the walled town, the Château Comtal, cassoulet and the Cavayère lake

If you've followed our advice, you'll have spent at least one night in a hotel in the medieval city, so you'll be in the swing of things as soon as you arrive, or even as soon as you wake up if you were too tired the night before.

© Accor - Hôtel de la Cité

We highly recommend the Hôtel De La Cité & Spa MGallery, which will plunge you right into the heart of the medieval city and offer you a unique view of Carcassonne extra muros, the Aude river running through it, the Bastide Saint-Louis and the ramparts of the castle. You'll be amazed!

Hôtel de la Cité & Spa MGallery Carcassonne
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Hôtel de la Cité & Spa MGallery

A choice address in the medieval city of Carcassonne itself
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£264 / night
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From midnight onwards, take a stroll around the old walled town of the medieval Cité, in the shelter of its walls, before it gets too lively.

Shopkeepers in the compound in the morning.

- © Dudlajzov / 123RF

It's a great opportunity to spot the old stone houses, take some quiet photographs and stroll around, while waiting for the Château Comtal to open, which will also give you access to the ramparts (otherwise you won't be able to visit them).

The Hôtel de la Cité's perfect continental breakfast, a nice reward after a morning stroll.

- © Hôtel de la Cité / Booking

That's when it's time for breakfast, which you can grab at your hotel. Just a few steps and you're there.

The Comtal castle

© 123RF

The château Comtal is defended by a deep moat, often decorated with flowers, and six towers pierced by loopholes with stirrups, covered with slate roofs inherited from the remarkable improvements by Viollet-Le-Duc; corbelled roof timbers (hourds) seem to enhance them. It's a thing of beauty. The west facade of the palace leans against the ramparts, which you can walk along like archers in the service of the King. If you can't shoot arrows, you can admire the Tour Pinte and the landscape below.

© dudlajzov / 123RF

The ramparts

Don't miss out on all the fun, take advantage of this access to the ramparts. You'll have an uninterrupted view of the lower town and the labyrinth of streets in the medieval walled city. As you emerge from the château comtal, you'll come face to face with its semi-circular barbican, the very place where you'd most likely have bought your ticket if you didn't have a pass.

It's time to start looking for a restaurant, and you'll be spoilt for choice in the fortified enclosure of the medieval city, with around thirty addresses to choose from. If you've been promising yourself a cassoulet, you've come to the right place.

At midday, it's off to the cassoulet

© bonchan / Shutterstock

It's hard to pick one restaurant over another. In the area you'll be visiting, La Maison du Cassoulet, Comte Roger and l'Auberge des Lices are all good places to go, serving authentic cassoulet in traditional Castelnaudary terracotta casseroles. But the most important thing is the wine you drink with it. A red with character, of course.

The Cavayère lake

The Aquaviva park on Lac de la Cavayère.

- © Vincent photographie / Office municipal de Tourisme de Carcassonne

After your meal, you'll feel like you've been taken by the hand by the imposing citadel, so you may feel like you've already seen a lot. Then head north for a refreshing dip in Lac de la Cavayère, where you can relax on the grass, sip a coffee in the refreshment room, watch your children run wild in the Aquaviva park with its giant slides (if you're there in summer) or go tree climbing.

In the evening, back at your hotel, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing that once again a top-quality restaurant awaits you, the Barbacane at the Hôtel de la Cité. Star-rated seasonal cuisine will be served in an exceptional neo-Gothic setting.

© Hôtel de la Cité / Booking

Day 2 - The Basilica of Saint-Nazaire, the ramparts and lices, and the Mémoires du Moyen-Âge museum

Early in the morning, after an invigorating breakfast, we suggest you take a closer look at the site to find out more about its secrets. Before going through one of the gates, head first for the Basilica of Saint-Nazaire, just a stone's throw from your hotel. Take in the sights, listen to the silence and take time to reflect. Admire the iridescent glass rose window overhanging the altar and the stained glass windows of the Tree of Life, displaying translucent paintings of the life of Jesus. You couldn't come to Carcassonne without making this visit.

The basilica's rose window, a must-see in the medieval city!

- © Boris Breytman / 123RF

The ramparts and the lices

Now plan a horse-drawn carriage ride outside the ramparts... well, not quite. Remember, Carcassonne stands out from other fortified towns because of its double walls, built by Louis IX following the Albigensian revolt. Between the two ramparts runs a wide cobbled road that starts behind the château Comtal, runs north and then runs along the entire eastern part to the south. These are the lices. Here, Les Calèches de la Cité organises horse-drawn carriage rides with commentary.

© Nicola Colombo / 123RF

Practical info

The Calèches de la Cité welcome you, without booking, 7 days a week, from 1st July to 31st August.

⏰ Opening times :

10am-12.30pm and 2pm-6pm

🕑 Duration: 20 min.

12 places per carriage.

💰 Prices:

  • 9 € from 11 years old.
  • Children aged 2 to 10: €5.50

👉 Free for newborns up to 2 years old.

The Memories of the Middle Ages Museum

You can then exit through the Porte Narbonnaise and head for the Mémoires du Moyen-Âge museum, just a few minutes to the south. Here you can find out, among other things, what daily life was like for soldiers in those days. You'll also discover three large scale models of the present-day Cité, animated with sound and light to help you distinguish between the three eras: the Gallo-Roman period, the Cité and the lower town in the Middle Ages, and the siege of the town in 1240.

by Faustine PEREZ
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