Gothic escapade at Saint-Bénigne Cathedral in Dijon

Dijon has a cathedral that is no less worth seeing than the best-known. The smaller Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne has undergone many changes. Initially, it was a simple crypt, before becoming a church and finally being transformed into a cathedral. A visit to this building will give you the chance to observe its evolution through the ages and admire its architectural prowess. Its impressive exterior and interior are sure to please even the most reluctant visitors. Whether you're travelling as a couple, with friends or with the family, this is a must-do activity in the city. Take the time to contemplate the organ, which has been undergoing restoration since April 2021. Just a stone's throw away, you can also visit Dijon's archaeological museum, which boasts a collection ranging from Antiquity to the Middle Ages. Here, too, you can discover how mankind came to be in Burgundy.

Saint-Bénigne Cathedral, Dijon, France.

- © noriox / Shutterstock
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Saint-Bénigne Cathedral in Dijon, a 13th-century building

Dijon's Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne is a Gothic-style building, the first structures of which date back to the 13th century. Initially, the church was part of the Abbey of Saint-Bénigne, and was not recognised as a cathedral until 1792. Before that, Dijon's Saint-Etienne church was considered the city's cathedral. While the former abbey church was not listed as a historic monument until 1862, its crypt was included as early as 1846.

The crypt was ordered built by a bishop during the reign of Clovis I, in the year 511. The original purpose of the crypt was to house the sarcophagus of Saint Bénigne de Dijon, a Christian martyr from the 2nd century. After this initial construction, a basilica was built over the crypt in 535. This building remained unchanged until 871.

Saint-Bénigne Cathedral, Dijon, France.

- © Leonid Andronov / Shutterstock

In 871, work began on a new abbey, Saint-Bénigne de Dijon. Worshippers began to gather there, while the building's façade fell into disrepair. Between 1280 and 1393, Saint-Bénigne church was rebuilt in the Gothic style on the former site of the abbey, which had collapsed in the meantime.

The interior of Saint-Bénigne Cathedral in Dijon

One of the first striking features of the cathedral's interior is its organ. Built by two brothers between 1740 and 1745, it boasts a 32-foot manual. At the time, it was the largest organ built in the province.

The organ at Saint-Bénigne Cathedral, Dijon

- © John_Silver / Shutterstock

The second detail is the colour of the stone, which differs between the nave and the choir. Some research suggests that, in the Middle Ages, the stone in the choir was more ochre. A number of restorations have been undertaken in an attempt to restore this same colour. Here, you can admire the interior of the building and learn more about its different colours.

Tall columns stand on either side, rising up to the vaulted ceiling. The highest stained glass windows in the choir are separated from the lowest by a wide stone facing, a choice that is unique and specific to the church of Saint-Bénigne. The nave, on the other hand, is decorated in Burgundian Gothic style, notably through the narrow passages located in the cathedral's nave. Thanks to the large windows, it enjoys excellent light. Unlike many churches, the highest stained glass windows in this one are made of white glass, which helps the light to circulate.

Interior of Saint-Bénigne Cathedral, Dijon, France.

- © EBASCOL / Shutterstock

What to do around Saint-Bénigne Cathedral in Dijon

Just a few metres away, you can visit Dijon's archaeological museum. Housed in the former Benedictine abbey of Saint-Bénigne, it boasts a large collection of archaeological objects. This collection began in the 18th century, on the initiative of various scholars. It was not until 1934 that the abbey was chosen as the venue for the exhibition.

Among the objects on display in this archaeological museum, you'll discover the passage of Man in Burgundy, through relics from Prehistory to the Middle Ages. Daily life during the Gallo-Roman period is also highlighted, following excavations at a villa in Selongey. You'll also be able to enjoy a presentation of the Merovingian period, which is often overlooked, through a range of jewellery and weapons.

Testimonial

"Very nice, interesting museum on the archaeology of Dijon and the surrounding area. Interesting building in itself (part of the old abbey). Beautiful and rare sculptures in wood or stone; bronzes; the basement is super interesting as is the large room with its arches. It's free and right next to the cathedral."

When you visit this museum, you'll discover the architecture of this former Saint-Bénigne abbey. All you have to do is look up to admire the interior architecture, but also take advantage of access to other rooms. As well as the area devoted to archaeological objects, you can also visit the chapter house, where the monks met; the scriptorium, where manuscripts were written; the dormitory and various sculptures that are still there.

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🍴 Where to eat?

Head for Foodies, a restaurant in Dijon town centre that offers burgers to die for. The menu features classic recipes, but also signature burgers like the Foodies with its surprising whisky sauce! Specialities not to be missed include croquettes made with epoisse, a delicious cheese that is typically Burgundian but smells very strong...

🍸 Where to have a drink?

An old Dijon house transformed into a bar. Muffled atmosphere, tasteful decor and lounge music... Welcome to Monsieur Moutarde! It's a charming place where it's good to stop. You'll receive a warm welcome from Michel, who looks after the entrance to this splendid establishment. Don't miss their original and delicious cocktails, prepared by an expert in the field. The bar also offers an all-you-can-eat brunch on Sundays!

by Jude JONES
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