The great crossing: a boat trip to the Breton islands

Discovering the Quiberon peninsula also means hearing the call of the open sea through the sound of waves crashing hard against the cliffs and the cries of seabirds soaring above the horizon. So if you're sensitive to the beckoning murmurs of the Atlantic, why not don your best sailor's foulies and take to the sea yourself?

Off the coast of Quiberon, the islands of Houat and Hoëdic, and the famous Belle-île en mer, praised by Laurent Voulzy, rival each other in beauty. All moorland, beaches (sublime!) and rocks, the Breton islands invite you to escape. Houat, Hoëdic and Belle-île en mer, with their wild aura and Celtic legends, have something magical about them. Whether you're looking for a day trip or a place to spend a few days, they're one of the must-visit destinations in southern Brittany. And like all great journeys, it starts with a crossing. Ready to embark?

Aerial view of Belle-île-en-mer

- © arnaud zamora / Shutterstock

Port de Quiberon

- © Franck Boston / Shutterstock

If you've been dreaming of sailors, adventure and sea travel since childhood, you've come to the right place! Quiberon is one of the main ports serving the islands of Groix, Houat, Hoëdic and Belle-île en mer. The crossing is a magical moment, a real spectacle in itself, which begins as soon as the boat leaves Quiberon, as it heads out against the current of Port Maria, and skirts the coast of Quiberon with a breathtaking view of the emblematic Château Turpault.

You'll continue to marvel as you cruise along the vast expanse of colour-changing water, sniffing the sea spray with the wind in your hair and watching the seabirds swirl through the air and dive for fish. If you're lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of a cetacean - it's not uncommon for schools of dolphins to come and greet the sailors, leaping happily along the boat's hull.

View from Château de Turpault, Quiberon

- © Richard Fink / Shutterstock

A number of shipping companies offer crossings, mainly during the summer months. These include Compagnie Océane, which runs daily round trips (2 to 5 times a day) all year round from Quiberon ferry terminal. The fare is one of the cheapest: €11 for under-18s, €13.50 for 12-25s and €19 for adults. For departures to Belle-île, you can take your car (around a hundred euros) or your bike (9 euros), but you need to book in advance. Journeys take 40 minutes to Hoëdic and Houat, and 1 hour to Belle-île.

Ferry departing from Quiberon

- © NeydtStock / Shutterstock

If you'd like to sail in a different, more environmentally-friendly way, the Iliens company is offering an alternative to motorboats (which are polluting and likely to frighten away marine wildlife), crossings aboard a catamaran from Port-Maria (Quiberon) to Sauzon (Belle-île). It's great to feel the wind blowing across the ocean through the sails, while listening to the crew tell stories and anecdotes about sailing and local maritime history, as well as biodiversity and learning more about cetaceans, birds and the marine ecosystem. A tasting of local products is also offered on board. It's a fascinating, friendly and educational experience that will delight sailors of all ages.

Dolphins near the island of Houat

- © Sophie BENARD / Shutterstock

The crossing lasts 1h30, enough time to experience a real voyage on the water! Ilien operates the Quiberon-Belle-île link from April to September, with three departures a day, 7 days a week in July and August. You can expect to pay 42 euros for a return adult fare and 31 euros for a child fare (fewer crossings in June and September). Booking is compulsory. Note that the crossing may be cancelled in the event of bad weather, in which case your ticket will be refunded in full.

Lighthouse between Houat Island and Quiberon

- © Sophie BENARD / Shutterstock

The islands of Houat and Hoëdic

Island of Houat, Quiberon

- © Sasha64f / Shutterstock

Houat and Hoëdic, names that mean "duck" and "duckling" respectively in Breton, are veritable little pieces of paradise nestling in the Atlantic Ocean. Populated by only a hundred or so inhabitants, they are little parallel worlds that seem to escape the laws of the mainland.

Legend has it that they are crowns belonging to fairies from the forest of Brocéliande, who flew out to sea before being transformed into an island. In Brittany, magic is never far away! The magnificently unspoilt nature of Houat and Hoedic, made up of treeless moors reminiscent of Scottish landscapes and sublime white sandy beaches, is quite simply breathtaking. On foot or by bike, discover these exceptional places, some of the most beautiful in Brittany, and you'll understand why they're so fond of superlatives.

Island of Houat, Quiberon

- © Sophie BENARD / Shutterstock

When you arrive in Houat's little port, Port Saint-Gildas, you'll be greeted by a myriad of brightly-coloured fishing boats, reminders of this ancestral activity which was for a long time the island's only source of income. Take a stroll through the charming little village, where you can visit the little church of Saint-Gildas, a pretty white building that is typically Breton, with its sky-blue shutters and slate roof. Still in the regional spirit, you can eat at CHEZ LOULOU, one of the best restaurants on the island, where you can sample some excellent traditional galettes and crêpes. The splendid terrace overlooks the ocean.

The Little Mermaid Quiberon

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Now it's time to explore Houat's magnificent natural beauty on foot or by bike, using the 14.5km of easily accessible footpaths that take you around the island in just 4 hours. Discover the beaches of Treac'h ar-Salus and Treac'h ar-Goured, set against the same peninsula, whose golden sands lapped by turquoise water give the impression of having landed in the Caribbean (although the water temperature is considerably cooler). Along the coastal path, you can admire the rocky islets ringed by gulls and battered by the waves, as well as the long wild dunes that are covered in multicoloured flowers in spring. It's as if the fairies were still with us...

Pointe du Vieux Château, Ile d’Hoedic

- © Sasha64f / Shutterstock

With fewer than 100 inhabitants, you couldn't ask for a more tranquil place than the small island of Hoëdic.

Although its beaches are very beautiful, they are not as heavenly as those on the island of Houat. On the other hand, it has an incredibly abundant flora, with no fewer than 455 species of plant on its territory, enough to delight budding botanists (and more experienced ones!). It's hard to get lost on the island, which can be circumnavigated in 2 hours as you search for the menhirs that sit enthroned in the tall grass.

Hoedic's must-sees include the impressive Fort Vauban, named after its famous architect, and the superb coastline of the Pointe du Vieux Châteaux, with its majestic rocks plunging into translucent water. For a short break, head to the pretty Café du repos, which serves excellent French cuisine that's simple and friendly. Decorated in wood and dried flowers, with a delightful terrace under the trees that lights up in the evening, it's a haven of tranquillity.

Belle-île at sea

Aiguilles de Port-coton, Belle île en mer

- © Pavel Ilyukhin / Shutterstock

The aptly-named Belle-île, Brittany's largest island, needs no introduction. At 20 kilometres long, it boasts a variety of landscapes, each more spectacular than the last. Rolling countryside, secluded coves, rolling dunes, long idyllic beaches and a rugged coastline of steep cliffs - there's something for everyone, from zealous cyclists to contemplative walkers and lovers of lounging on the fine sand. With 84 kilometres of well-marked trails, hiking and cycling enthusiasts will be in heaven. Warm up your ankles, though, as the coastal path is far from flat. Bellil's highlights include the charming town of Le Palais, where you can stroll along the ramparts of the Vauban Citadel, the sublime sandy beach of Bordardoué or the Crique du Gros Rocher, a little jewel box of raw beauty, especially when the cliffs are covered in little purple flowers, making the place even more enchanting.

Belle île en mer harbour

- © art_of_sun / Shutterstock

Discover Belle-île's ocean front too, with its rugged landscapes of violent majesty, between bubbling foamy water and sheer cliffs. The panorama at Pointe du Poulain in particular is breathtaking. For a bite to eat, treat yourself to a galette at the Crêperie chez Renée or have a drink at the delightful Liber & Co café and bookshop.

To make the most of Belle-île and discover all its facets, from the wildest to the most seaside, the ideal is to stay several days and let yourself be won over by its inimitable iodine charm.

Le Grand Large, Belle-Ile-En-Mer Belle-Ile-en-Mer

Le Grand Large, Belle-Ile-En-Mer

Featuring an outdoor swimming pool, this seaside hotel is located in the Belle-Île-en-Mer region.
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The islands of Houat, Hoëdic and Belle-île en mer, like Brittany, are enchanting bastions of a natural magic that is still very much alive, whether they came into being through the magic of fairies or the movements of the ocean.

by Faustine PEREZ
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