Turin, capital of chocolate

The arrival of cocoa beans in Turin dates back to the second half of the 16th century. Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy is said to have introduced it in the form of a hot drink: the famous hot chocolate. This luxurious drink was reserved for the royal family and the nobility. It was considered both a delicacy and a remedy. Italian chocolatiers became virtuosos in the art of preparing it and exported their creations to all the great courts of Europe (France, Germany, etc.).

Later, chocolate consumption became more democratic with the invention of chewy chocolate, which was easier to transport and more affordable. Over time, Turin saw the birth of some of the greatest names in chocolate-making, including Michele Prochet, Ernesto Alberto Caffarel, Guido Gobino and Guido Castagna. Pastry chef Pietro Ferrero also deserves a mention. It was in Turin that he came up with the idea of making gianduja chocolate for children, along with his famous Nutella and various chocolate bars.

At the end of the 19th century, following the blockade ordered by Napoleon, a shortage of chocolate prevented the Turin chocolate factories from being supplied. A Turin chocolatier had the bright idea of filling the chocolate gap with roasted hazelnuts, a fruit that grows abundantly in Piedmont (it now has a PDO). Gianduja or gianduia (pronounced "djann-dou-ya") was born and would become the essential ingredient in many of Turin's specialities.

Five centuries later, chocolate is still as much a part of the city as ever. Just look at the number of shops selling it. In Rue Carlo Alberto, you'll find the Caffarel boutique, a master chocolatier since 1826, which has since been taken over by Lindt & Sprüngli.

A little further on, in via Lagrange, you'll find the world-famous Guido Gobino, then in piazza San Carlo 191: Stratta.

The Baratti&Milano shop is also well worth a visit.

There are also a number of small artisan chocolatiers throughout the city.

Today, most of Turin's cafés have preserved this chocolate-making tradition and serve exceptional hot chocolates that have nothing to do with those usually drunk in cafés. For a feast for the eyes and a trip back in time, there's Caffè Fiorio, in via Po, under the arcades not far from the royal palace. Other historic places to enjoy a good hot chocolate served in the Piedmontese tradition in piazza Castello are Mulassano, at no. 15, and Baratti & Milano at no. 27.

Turin's signature chocolate is Gianduiotto. Invented in 1865 by Caffarel, this little chocolate wrapped in gold paper resembles the roof of a house or the hat of the local puppet (more plausible!). It is made from milk chocolate and hazelnut paste (the famous gianduja, widely copied later). But not just any hazelnut, just the Tonda Gentile variety produced in Piedmont.

There are other chocolates that are less emblematic but just as delicious: cremino (cremini in the plural) or Turinois (a mixture of hazelnut chocolate and gianduja cream), alpino (with liqueur) or flavoured diablottini (chocolate pastilles). Of course, many Turin pastries also contain chocolate, such as baci di dama, often served with hot chocolate.

Another of Turin's must-try chocolate specialities: the Bicerin. Its name refers to the handleless glass in which it is served. This subtle drink, invented in the 18th century, is made up of successive layers of hot chocolate, espresso and cold cream of milk. In the past, these ingredients were served separately, and each person measured them out to taste. Today, it is eaten as it is, without mixing it (which is frowned upon). You go from hot to cold, and the flavours mingle in your mouth - it's divine!