Sidi Bou Saïd, the blue and white pearl of Tunisia

Nicknamed the "little white and blue paradise", the charming village of Sidi Bou Saïd is one of Tunisia's postcards. Located just 17km from the capital Tunis, it is a splendid site, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the Gulf of Tunis as far as Cap Bon. A splendid view that can be admired over a mint tea at the Café des Délices, popularised by Patrick Bruel's song, but whose real name is Café Sidi Chebaane.

You can also admire the superb panorama from the palace of Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger, the painter and musician who introduced blue and white to Sidi Bou Saïd. This magnificent Andalusian palace, also known as the Ennejma Ezzahra Palace, is home to the Centre for Arab and Mediterranean Music. The other address for tasty oriental pastries is the adorable Café des Nattes, at the top of the main street.

What a pleasure it is to wander through its immaculate streets, contemplating the deep blue of the doors and windows of the dazzling white houses! Its mysterious moucharabiehs, rounded roofs and gentle Mediterranean atmosphere make it a timeless place.

Sidi Bou Saïd, Tunisia.

- © Valery Bareta / Shutterstock

The history of Sidi Bou Saïd

Perched on a cliff 130 metres above sea level overlooking Carthage and the Gulf of Tunis, Sidi Bou Saïd bears the name of a saint: Sidi Bou Saïd. The Punic Carthaginians and then the Romans were already present in this area, which was nicknamed Cap Carthagena (promontory of Carthage) in ancient times. After the Arab conquest in the 7th century and the fall of Carthage, the promontory retained its strategic position, with the construction of watchtowers and a lighthouse to defend the north-eastern coast of Tunisia. This explains the name of the hill on which Sidi Bou Saïd nestles: Djebel El Manar ("Lighthouse Mountain"). As for the name of the village, it's simply Sidi Bou Saïd (1156-1231), who at the end of his life retired to the top of Djebel El Manar, the hill overlooking Cap Carthage, to stand guard and teach Sufism.

From the 17th century onwards, the charm of this village attracted the Tunisian bourgeoisie and the bey's family, who built luxurious Arab-Muslim mansions here.

On 28 August 1915, a decree imposed a blue and white ban on all uncontrolled construction on the promontory, making Sidi Bou Saïd the first listed site in the world.

Until 1825, Sidi Bou Saïd was off-limits to non-Muslims. From then on, the blue and white village attracted many artists, musicians and writers, including Chateaubriand, Gustave Flaubert, Paul Klee, August Macke, Alphonse de Lamartine, Georges Duhamel, André Gide, Colette and Simone de Beauvoir. Michel Foucault wrote L'Archéologie du savoir.

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Sidi Bou Saïd, Tunisia.

- © Lizavetta / Shutterstock

Why visit Sidi Bou Saïd?

Famous cafés

Of course, a stop at the famous Café des Nattes is not to be missed. This charming café at the top of the village's main street has seen many writers and artists (André Gide, Simone de Beauvoir, Montherlant, Klee) pay tribute to it in their works. Another café with a bird's-eye view of the Mediterranean is Le Chebaane, immortalised in Patrick Bruel's song Le Café des Délices, which has pleasant terraces on several levels. Ideal for sipping mint tea accompanied by delicious Tunisian pastries as the sun sets!

A café in Sidi Bou Saïd.

- © Bojan Pavlukovic / Shutterstock
© Patrick Bruel

Ennejma Ezzahra, the palace of Baron d'Erlanger

A magnificent Andalusian residence listed as a historic monument, the palace of Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger, the Franco-British painter and musician, has been open to visitors since 1992. The Baron himself designed the refined interior. He also designed the lush garden inspired by Islamic art, and introduced blue and white to Sidi Bou Saïd. In short, he is a central figure in the history of this village!

Also known as the Ennejma Ezzahra Palace (the Star of Venus), the site is home to the Centre for Arab and Mediterranean Music, which offers concerts, symposia, violin-making workshops and more.) There is a superb panoramic view over the Gulf of Tunis to Cap Bon. Programme and tickets on the official Baron's Palace website.

Ennejma Ezzahra, the palace of Baron d'Erlanger.

- © BTWImages / Shutterstock

The mosque and mausoleum of Sidi Bou Saïd

After the death of the saint Sidi Bou Saïd in the 13th century, a mausoleum was built in his honour on Mount El Manar, in the heart of the village that took his name. The tomb adjoins the mosque. Unfortunately, the mausoleum was completely destroyed in an arson attack on 12 January 2013, set by Salafists. The villagers have since rebuilt it.

The Sidi Bou Saïd mosque.

- © delobol / Shutterstock
© Juan Carlos Munoz / Shutterstock

Practical information for visiting Sidi Bou Saïd

How do I get to Sidi Bou Saïd?

Tunis Carthage airport is 16km south-west of Sidi Bou Saïd, a 30-minute journey (20 minutes when the car is running well, which is rare). It costs no more than 10 Tunisian dinars (less than €4) to get to Sidi Bou Saïd from the airport. From Tunis Marine (at the end of Avenue Bourguiba), you can take the TGM line (short for Tunis-La Goulette-La Marsa), a sort of metro, train and RER that leaves every 15 minutes, taking 36 minutes. It's the cheapest way to travel, costing just 1 euro. The flight from Paris takes 2 hours 25 minutes.

Sidi Bou Saïd is the most popular tourist village in Tunisia, and the country's most visited site. To discover this pearl in the best conditions, it's best to come out of season or early in the morning! In short, don't come during the high season or in the middle of the day - it's too crowded and spoils the charm of this adorable village!

If you're looking for something original and delicious, we recommend a grouper couscous at Dar Zarrouk, the restaurant in the Dar Saïd hotel.

Every year in mid-August, you can attend a mystical festival, the Kharja, which attracts processions of different religious brotherhoods from all over Tunisia. The aim is to pay homage to Sidi Bou Saïd and ask him for baraka, or good fortune.

The good news is that the famous archaeological site of Carthage is only 1.5 km away, a 20-minute walk!

© Lizavetta / Shutterstock

Our favourite hotel in Sidi Bou Saïd

Perched on the heights of the mythical little tourist village of Sidi Bou Saïd, Dar Saïd is a small, charming hotel housed in a former 19th-century bourgeois residence. The 24 rooms, arranged around four patios, are superbly decorated in a spirit that blends 19th-century Italianate western furniture with oriental style.

White and grey marble, patios, fountains, wrought iron and small, fragrant gardens planted with palms, bougainvilleas and other sunny species set the scene. A pleasant little outdoor pool overlooks the white and blue houses of Sidi Bou Saïd, offering a superb panoramic view of the Gulf of Tunis. There is also a small traditional hammam for those who like it. Across the lane, Dar Zarrouk serves exquisite cuisine.

Dar Said Hammamet
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