The dynamic town of Tabarka

Ask a diver or golfer you know if they've ever heard of Tabarka. Several hours later, you'll still hear them talking... A coastal town in north-west Tunisia, not far from the Algerian border, Tabarka is the little-known Tunisia, situated on the Coral Coast and renowned for its unspoilt beaches. The town is overlooked by a rock on which is built a Genoese fort, the symbol of Tabarka.

A spot off the beaten track of mass tourism, it also attracts wellness enthusiasts thanks to its thalassotherapy centres, and even music lovers in summer at the famous jazz festival!

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The history of Tabarka

Situated in north-west Tunisia, Tabarka is in the Jendouba governorate. We're in the Kroumirie, a mountainous region covered with pine and cork oak forests, stretching right up to the Algerian border. The first thing you need to know is that until the 1950s, Tabarka was an island! Founded more than 2,800 years ago by the Phoenicians, Thabraca (its ancient name) saw Carthaginians, Byzantines and Arabs come and go. The Genoese, present on the island of Tabarka until the 18th century, left their mark, starting with the Genoese fort, the symbol of the town.

In 1952, the nationalist leader Habib Bourguiba, who presided over Tunisia between 1957 and 1987, was exiled to Tabarka and then to the island of La Galite by the French colonial authorities. An island cut off from the rest of the world, off the coast of Tabarka, difficult to access - in short, a sort of Saint Helena! Nowadays, Tabarka attracts golfers, divers and thalassotherapy enthusiasts.

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Why visit Tabarka?

Tabarka attracts golfers from all over the world with its golf course set between the sea and the pine forest, a technical and picturesque 18-hole course on a 110-hectare estate designed by the famous American architect Ronald Fream. Swing lovers will be delighted!

Tabarka is also a unique place for diving, on a par with Malta or Corsica, with the seabed visible at depths of 15 metres. There are around twenty diving sites off Tabarka, along the Coral Coast and near the Galite archipelago. This archipelago, situated 64 km off Tabarka, 4 hours by boat, is a protected nature reserve.

If you're not a diver or golfer, you can still enjoy a very pleasant holiday in Tabarka: especially if you like the landscapes that you might find in Greece or the Balearics! The pine and cork oak forests are ideal for superb walks, in unsuspected natural settings, far from the postcard image of Tunisia...

In Tabarka itself, you can admire the Genoese Fort (which cannot be visited), dominating the sea from its rocky spur, the old port and the Aiguilles, astonishing rock formations sculpted by the sea at the foot of Tabarka, at the end of the eponymous cove.

Finally, wellness enthusiasts can choose from several hotels with thalassotherapy centres, including the luxurious La Cigale palace, next to the golf course, 2 km from Tabarka.

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Practical information for visiting Tabarka

How do I get to Tabarka?

It's a 2-hour 40-minute flight from Paris to Tunis airport. Tabarka is just under 200km from Tunis-Carthage international airport. Annaba-Rabah Bitat international airport, in Algeria, is closer (100 km and 2 hours' drive). It's because Tabarka is so isolated that it's not much of a tourist destination! Fortunately, there are occasional flights to the airport, but no regular flights from France. The best option is simply to make a stopover in Tunis, Monastir or Djerba. Tabarka-Ain Drahem International Airport is 17km to the east of the town, so allow 25 minutes for transfers.

Go and drink a mint tea with pine nuts at the Café de France, known as the Café des Andalous, the equivalent of the famous Café des Nattes in Sidi Bou Saïd. This is Tabarka's best-known café, located on Avenue Habib-Bourguiba. The decor is top-notch, with its earthenware tiles and heavy wooden doors, not forgetting the puppets hanging from the ceiling. You can also do as the locals do, smoking chicha and playing cards.

Tabarka has a touch of Brittany about it, with its wild, rocky coastline and thalassotherapy centres. What's more, you can eat lobsters, slipper lobsters and sea cicadas, caught off the coast and in the Galite archipelago.

One of Tabarka's specialities is the red coral that comes from formations off this coastline, aptly nicknamed the Coral Coast. You can take home jewellery, rings, pendants and bracelets, provided you don't overdo it, as the natural coral reefs are getting smaller every year.

After Brittany, the Alsatian side of the region comes from the storks that spend the winter here. This is an opportunity to bring back another typical souvenir: a stork figurine planted in a piece of cork oak, which can be bought at the craft market on the Promenade des Aiguilles, opposite the Genoese Fort.

In July and August, save an evening for the famous Tabarka Jazz Festival! It takes place in the superb setting of the Basilica of Sainte-Maxime in Tabarka, built during the French protectorate in an old Roman cistern. The slogan: "Don't sunbathe like an idiot!

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Our favourite hotel in Tabarka

The hotel trade is fairly limited in Tabarka, with just fifteen or so hotels compared with other tourist areas in Tunisia, but there are nevertheless some good addresses, notably luxury hotels (La Cigale in particular), golf hotels and thalassotherapy centres. Our top tip? The Marina Prestige Tabarka, a very reasonably priced 4-star hotel (from €56 a night) with an excellent restaurant. Located opposite Tabarka marina and not far from the beach, it also offers free Wi-Fi throughout.

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Marina Prestige Tabarka

Hotel located 300 metres from the beach
6.9 Pleasant
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by Jude JONES
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