Nabeul, capital of pottery

Less well known than its neighbour Hammamet, 10km further south, Nabeul, capital of Cap Bon, is a charming seaside resort on Tunisia's north-east coast. You won't be partying till dawn here, but you will appreciate the friendly atmosphere, the family-friendly clubs on a human scale, the traditional houses - known here as dars - in the authentic medina where it's good to get lost, and the uncrowded beaches. A plunge into traditional Tunisia, the cradle of pottery and ceramics.

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© TunisiaTourismTV

The history of Nabeul

Bordering the Gulf of Hammamet to the south of the Cap Bon peninsula, some sixty kilometres south-east of Tunis, Nabeul is the administrative capital of the eponymous governorate. Nabeul is a very old town, mentioned as far back as the 5th century BC by the Greek historian Thucydides as a trading post.

Thucydides as a Carthaginian trading post. Ironically, this ancient city, founded 2,400 years ago, was called Neapolis by the Greeks, literally the new city, which became Nabeul when the Arabs built the Great Mosque there in the 9th century. Note that its Italian counterpart on the other side of the Tyrrhenian Sea became Naples. Today, Nabeul is the region's second most popular tourist destination, after Hammamet.

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Why visit Nabeul?

Less well-known than its neighbour Hammamet, 10km further south-west, the medina of Nabeul is less touristy and more authentic! It is also better preserved and larger. Nabeul is Tunisia's pottery capital and its historic birthplace. It's a delight to stroll through Nabeul's well-preserved medina! The best thing to do is to lose yourself in the narrow streets, haggle in the souk shops, have a mint tea for a ridiculously low price on a terrace with the locals, visit a barber or even go through the door of the mosque and admire the impressive minaret. You can also lose yourself in the souks and bargain for a few souvenirs, without forgetting to take off your hotel bracelet of course!

You can visit the centre of Nabeul in a horse-drawn carriage or on foot, walking along streets pleasantly decorated with houses with studded wooden doors. The many stalls, whose contents spill over the pavement, are full of brightly painted ceramic dishes. This is one of Nabeul's specialities. You'll find a remarkable choice.

Located along Avenue Habib Bourguiba in the town centre, the Musée Archéologique de Nabeul houses a historical map of the town, as well as some very fine Punic and Roman artefacts, mainly from the ancient site of Neapolis, 2km from the centre, but also from other sites on Cap Bon. The collections include pottery, mosaics, oil lamps, jewellery, coins, vases and amphorae. The oldest objects date back to the 7th century BC, and illustrate the city's Punic period. The others date back to the 3rd century AD.

© Carlos Rodrigues / Easyvoyage
©Carlos Rodrigues / Easyvoyage

Practical information for visiting Nabeul

How do I get to Nabeul?

The bad news is that there is no airport in Nabeul. The good news is that you have a choice of two airports! Tunis to the north and Monastir to the south, or even three if you include Enfidha, which is closer (68 km to the south, i.e. a 1-hour drive) but not much used. It is mainly used by charter flights, mainly English and German, and unfortunately very few French airlines or airlines departing from France.

Whichever airport you arrive at, allow 2 hours 40 minutes for the flight from Paris. Tunis airport is 63km to the north-west, a 1-hour journey. Monastir airport is 124 km further south, so you'll need to allow more time: around 1 hour 50 minutes for transfers. Most hotels have their own shuttle service.

Friday morning is market day in the medina of Nabeul, a not-to-be-missed event attracting tourists and Cap Bon locals alike. Located in the Place du Marché aux Chameaux, this agricultural and craft fair attracts a large proportion of the local population. The Nabeul medina is full of souks where you can bargain for spices, handicrafts and pastries. It's a great opportunity to pick up some bargains! Take your time haggling. Not only will you benefit from a much more attractive price, but you'll also enjoy chatting with the seller. Don't forget to take off your club bracelet... Nabeul's crafts are not limited to pottery, but also include floral waters, embroidered blouses and decorative objects in wrought iron.

Looking for an original souvenir to pack in your suitcase? Nabeul is the only place in Tunisia where you can find sugar figurines, made from a mould and then painted with natural dyes. Don't hesitate to take a look in the courtyard to admire the splendid minaret! The minaret of the Nabeul mosque is a useful landmark for finding your way around the medina! One last tip: hire a car to explore Cap Bon! This unspoilt agricultural region, renowned for its essences that attract some of the biggest names in perfume, such as Guerlain, is bordered by superb beaches that have not yet been taken over by hotels.

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Our favourite hotel in Nabeul

Situated 2 km from the Nabeul medina, right on the beach, the Khayam Garden offers a 24-hour all-inclusive package and high-quality entertainment. A well-equipped establishment on a human scale, with a balneotherapy centre and three swimming pools, one of which is indoor and the other houses four high-speed waterslides that provide the thrills of a real water park! From the top of the slides, you can see the minaret of the Nabeul mosque and a beautiful view of the sea.

© Khayam Garden Beach Resort & Spa/ Booking.com
Khayam Garden Beach Resort & Spa Hammamet
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Khayam Garden Beach Resort & Spa

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by Jude JONES
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