Inside the ramparts of Hammamet

Hammamet is one of the symbols of seaside tourism in Tunisia, a kingdom of all-inclusive clubs, party-goers, golfers and thalassotherapy enthusiasts.

But it's also an old medina with superb blue or yellow Arab doors, home to the splendid Great Mosque, offering a lovely contrast between the white dome and the ramparts, the beach and its colourful fishing boats at the foot of the fort (or kasbah). Its cultural centre hosts an international festival every summer.

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© Romas_Photo / Shutterstock

The history of Hammamet

Situated on a small cape at the southern tip of Cap Bon, 60km from Tunis, Hammamet is attached to the administrative capital of the Nabeul governorate. One of Tunisia's leading seaside resorts, Hammamet's long beaches stretch for some twenty kilometres along the eponymous gulf. Where does the name Hammamet come from? Quite simply, it's the plural of Hammam. As is often the case in Tunisia, the Romans passed through here and left many thermal baths, the tradition of which has been carried on by the inhabitants to this day. In ancient times, the city was called Pupput. Unfortunately, not much remains of the ancient ruins of Hammamet's ancestor, near Jinène Hammamet (between the medina and Yasmine Hammamet). Unfortunately, Africa's largest Roman necropolis lies under the foundations of the large resorts that have invaded the coast.

In the 19th century, the town began to attract artists such as Gustave Flaubert, Guy de Maupassant and Oscar Wilde. Then in the 20th century, the great German painter Paul Klee was seduced by its light, as were the Frenchmen André Gide and Jean Cocteau, followed by the British Winston Churchill and Kings Edward VIII and George VI. So many celebrities who have succumbed to the charm of Hammamet.

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Why visit Hammamet?

Hammamet's kasbah overlooks the medina (a small area measuring 200 metres by 200 metres) and the sea. Admission costs 8 dinars (around €2.5). There isn't much to see, but from the top of the citadel you can enjoy a fine view of the ramparts, the souks, the beach with its colourful fishing boats, the beautiful Arab doors in the typical Tunisian blue, and the sea promenade.

There is also a strange monument that looks like the Eiffel Tower! This white tower, reminiscent of the famous Parisian monument, stands beside the ramparts in the northern part of the medina, on the Place des Martyrs. You can also lose yourself in the souks and bargain for a few souvenirs, without forgetting to take off your hotel bracelet of course!

© Charged One / Shutterstock
© Charged One / Shutterstock

Practical information for visiting Hammamet

How do I get to Hammamet?

The bad news is that there is no airport in Hammamet. The good news is that you have a choice of two airports! Tunis to the north and Monastir to the south, or even three if you include Enfidha, which is closer (57km to the south, or 40 minutes) but not much used. It is mainly used by charter flights, mainly English and German, and unfortunately very few French airlines or airlines departing from France.

Whichever airport you arrive at, allow 2 hours 40 minutes for the flight from Paris. Tunis airport is 70km to the north-west, a 1-hour journey. Monastir airport is 115 km further south, so you'll need to allow more time: around 1? hours for transfers. Most hotels have their own shuttle service.

Many hotels offer excellent homemade lemonades, the local speciality, so remember this when you're asked what you want to drink! Linger in one of the Moorish cafés in the medina for a delicious mint tea (for the equivalent of less than 50 euro cents) while smoking a shisha on a terrace at the foot of the ramparts facing the sea, to the sound of the muezzin's call to prayer: a change of scenery guaranteed! The contrast between the white of the dome, the blue of the sea and the ochre of the ramparts is splendid! The best views have to be earned: you have to climb to the top of Hammamet's kasbah (citadel) (there's a charge: 8 dinars, or around €2.50) but it's worth it!

Every summer, the sumptuous gardens and 1,000-seat open-air amphitheatre overlooking the sea of the Hammamet Cultural Centre host the Hammamet International Festival: the programme includes theatrical performances, dance, ballets and concerts. For the programme, click here. Built in the 1920s by George Sebastian, an American billionaire of Romanian origin, the antique-style villa is set in a lush garden that is a delight to stroll through.

Out of season, the charm of the maze of narrow streets in the old medina protected by ramparts, the colourful fishermen's boats, the view from its 15th-century fort and the beauty of its Great Mosque, the low prices of the stays and the many leisure and relaxation options are all much appreciated.

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Our favourite hotel in Hammamet

The TUI Blue Oceana Suites is located 7 km south of Hammamet on one of the region's most beautiful beaches. This adults-only establishment stands out for its superb balneotherapy centre, its spacious, charming rooms with every comfort, the quality of its cuisine, its four swimming pools and its large green garden planted with 500 palm trees and surrounded by ancient eucalyptus trees. All set in seven hectares (70,000 m²) with plenty of lawn.

TUI Blue Oceana Suites "Focussed Adults Hammamet
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TUI Blue Oceana Suites "Focussed Adults

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by Jude JONES
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