Itinerary for a 5-day tour of the Tunisian Sahel

Tunisia's Sahel region covers the governorates of Sousse, Monastir and Mahdia. It is one of Tunisia's major seaside spots and a kingdom of thalassotherapy. Those lucky enough to stay on this coastline, which boasts numerous hotels from Mahdia to Port El Kantaoui, have the chance to visit two of North Africa's nuggets less than an hour's drive from the sea.

The mosque at Kairouan and the El Jem coliseum are both UNESCO World Heritage sites, as are the citadel and medina at Sousse. A good mix of culture and seaside resorts, rounded off by the little-known economic capital of Sfax and the Kerkennah Islands.

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Monastir

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Easy access to Monastir from France
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Day 1: Visit to Kairouan

Why not start inland? A first day away from the beaches, among mosques, medinas, ancient cisterns and mysterious wells? Considered Islam's fourth holiest city after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem, Kairouan, situated in the heart of the country, has been on UNESCO's World Heritage List since 1988. Nestling far from the coast in an austere region, this city of 300 mosques is one of the jewels of Tunisia's heritage. It has retained all its character as a traditional town and is home to one of the most majestic and ancient mosques in the world.

The mosque of Kairouan

It's the symbol of Kairouan, one of the oldest and most beautiful mosques in the world, and one of the most impressive monuments in the whole of the Maghreb! And yet the ticket costs just 10 Tunisian dinars, or just over three euros... A ticket that also gives you access to other sites in the city. Allow a good hour to do the rounds. The best thing is to have a guide explain the history of the site, whose** religious prestige makes Kairouan the 4th holiest city in Islam**. It is particularly famous for its prayer hall. Unfortunately, unless you're a Muslim, you won't be able to enter this room, which is decorated with dozens of marble columns and houses the oldest minbar in the Muslim world! But you can still have a quick look.

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© Christophe Cappelli / Shutterstock

The medina of Kairouan and its Arabian Nights souks

Are you ready to plunge into the exotic world of the Thousand and One Nights? There's no Ariadne's thread to help you find your way through this labyrinth of narrow streets and vaulted passageways where you can exercise your haggling skills! The city's speciality is carpets (there's even a museum), but they might take up too much space in your suitcase? If not, opt for leather sandals or local pastries! Among the must-sees in the medina are the Three Gates mosque, the bey's house (now a carpet temple), and the mysterious Bir Barrouta well, which dates back to the 8th century, when the town was founded. It is said to be linked by underground rivers to the sacred well in Mecca! Don't hesitate to drink the sacred water drawn by a dromedary!

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Lunch break at the Dar Abderrahman Zarrouk restaurant

Visiting the mosque and the Souk left you hungry? Then why not take a seat in this old 18th-century house where the governor of Kairouan, Abderrahman Zarrouk, used to stay! You can enjoy local specialities in the old rooms around the main patio, a real treat in an authentic setting.

The Barbier mosque

Located outside the medina walls, the Barber Mosque is actually a mausoleum where Sidi Saheb, a companion of the Prophet Mohammed, is buried. Three hairs from the prophet's beard are said to have been preserved here, hence the nickname of this 17th-century mausoleum mosque. There are some delightful courtyards and galleries adorned with ceramics and sculpted stucco.

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The Aghlabid basins

It was the Aghlabid dynasty, under the Abbasid caliphate, who made Kairouan the capital of an independent province, Afriqiya. It was in the 9th century, during the golden age of the Aghlabid emirs, that the great circular reservoirs on the outskirts of Kairouan were built, much to the admiration of medieval chroniclers.

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Hôtel Continental Monastir
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Hôtel Continental

Hotel located 1.3 km from the Great Mosque of Kairouan
8.3 Very good
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The 3-star Hôtel Continental is located just opposite the Aghlabides basins. This 100-room establishment has a restaurant and a lovely outdoor swimming pool to relax in after all that sightseeing in Kairouan. From €60 per night.

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Day 2: El Jem, its amphitheatre and museum

Allow a good hour's drive to cover the 70km between Kairouan and El Jem. It's a must for any trip to Tunisia, with the best-preserved amphitheatre from the Roman Empire and a fascinating archaeological museum housing the finest collection of mosaics in the country after the Bardo Museum in Tunis.

The El Jem coliseum

El Jem is the third largest coliseum in the world after those in Rome and Verona. The largest vestige of the Maghreb is also the best preserved of the Roman Empire. Take a look: this Roman amphitheatre is 148 metres long, 122 metres wide and 36 metres high! It could hold between 27,000 and 30,000 spectators... Don't miss a trip down into the underground passages to see the lion's den and the gladiators' dressing rooms! These underground galleries are unique in the world, having disappeared from the coliseums of Italy. Allow a good hour for the visit.

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EL Jem archaeological museum

There's more to El Jem than its famous coliseum. It would be a shame not to walk the 500 metres between the imposing ancient amphitheatre and the archaeological museum, especially as the ticket is valid for both sites! Quite simply, this museum houses the finest collection of mosaics in Tunisia, after the Bardo Museum in the capital. A place steeped in history, to complement your visit to the El Jem amphitheatre!

© Christophe Cappelli / Shutterstock

It's a 1-hour drive south, covering almost 70 km, to reach Sfax, Tunisia's second-largest city and the country's economic capital. A very business-like town of limited tourist interest, it nevertheless boasts a beautiful medina and a number of interesting museums.

Ibis Sfax Monastir
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Ibis Sfax

Hotel located 5 km from Thyna airport
8.4 Very good
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£51 / night
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The Ibis Sfax is a budget hotel with 187 rooms offering excellent value for money, from as little as €50 a night. With a restaurant, two bars, an outdoor swimming pool and even a gym, there's plenty to do to recuperate before tackling another day the following day! The medina is less than 500 metres away and the port less than a kilometre. Convenient for catching the ferry to the Kerkennah Islands the next day!

© Ibis Sfax/ Booking.com

Day 3: Sfax and the Kerkennah Islands

The town of Sfax is not very touristy, attracting mainly a business clientele. It is mainly the departure point for the Kerkennah Islands. That said, its medina is well worth a visit.

The medina of Sfax

Founded in 849, it is one of the few medieval towns in North Africa to have retained its early Islamic-Arabic urban planning, which is one of the best preserved. The Tunisian government would like to see it included on UNESCO's heritage list. This medina lost its role during the French protectorate, which built a new city, now the economic capital of Tunisia. The walls enclose the medina in a 24-hectare quadrilateral made up of ramparts and 34 dungeons. The Great Mosque and the ramparts are classified as national heritage. The old kasbah houses the Sfax Architecture Museum. If you're keen on shopping, the Sfax medina is home to no fewer than 30 different souks! Traditional clothing is the most popular.

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The Kerkennah Islands

Located around twenty kilometres off the coast of Sfax, the Kerkennah archipelago comprises two main islands (Gharbi to the west and Chergui to the east) and four uninhabited islets. Dream beaches and a timeless atmosphere await you on these islands, which can be reached by ferry from Sfax. On the island of Chergui, nicknamed Grande Kerkenna, don't miss a visit to the borj el Hissar (ruined fort), where you can enjoy the most extensive panorama. For a swim, head to Sidi Frej beach, one of the most beautiful on the island. Gharbi and Chergui are linked by a 600-metre-long causeway that has existed since Roman times.

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Practical tip for the Kerkennah Islands

The crossing lasts 1 hour, and you won't break the bank - it only costs you the equivalent of 40 euro cents! Get to the top for the best view of the islands - it's a magical finish, especially at sunset!

Pieds Dans L'eau in Kerkennah Monastir
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Pieds Dans L'eau in Kerkennah

Hotel located in Ouled Kacem
9.2 Fabulous
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£50 / night
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These charming, waterfront bungalows with kitchenette and terrace are available for less than 50 euros a night.

© Pieds Dans L'eau a Kerkennah/ Booking.com

Day 4: Mahdia and Monastir

Get up early and take the ferry to Sfax (1-hour crossing), then drive 100 km north (2 hours) to Mahdia, renowned for some of the most beautiful beaches in Tunisia.

The citadel of Mahdia

Mahdia's medina is one of the most charming in Tunisia, and there are fewer tourists than in Hammamet or Djerba! Its colourful frescoes and numerous art galleries make it stand out from the crowd. Don't hesitate to treat yourself to a traditional hammam session! After a coffee break on the roof of Dar el Medina, admire the panoramic view of the Borj el Kebir. This imposing sixteenth-century fortress is your next target!

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The Ribat and the medina of Monastir

A 1-hour drive from Mahdia brings you to Monastir, famous for its medina, souks, Great Mosque and Ribat, an impressive fortress overlooking the sea.

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Regency Hotel & Spa Monastir
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Regency Hotel & Spa

Hotel combining modernity and Tunisian tradition
6.2 Pleasant
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£62 / night
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The Regency Monastir is ideally located in the old town of Monastir, between the beach and the marina, less than 500 metres from the Ribat and the Habib Bourguiba mausoleum. A lively club with outdoor pools and balneotherapy. The Regency hotel is next to the Marina district, which is particularly lively with its many restaurants and bars.

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Day 5: Sousse and Port El Kantaoui

Barely 30 minutes from Monastir, and we're already in Sousse. Bis repetita, another medina and a Ribat, but we're not at the top level because in Sousse, the site is a UNESCO heritage site! And that's three, after Kairouan and El Jem, not bad for this little 4-day tour of the Tunisian Sahel!

The Ribat and the medina of Sousse

Sousse's must-see attraction is of course its medina, one of the most beautiful in the Arab world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is home to the Great Mosque and the Ribat, an impressive fortress. You can also visit the Sousse Archaeological Museum, located in the Kasbah, which houses the second richest collection of Roman mosaics after the Bardo Museum in Tunis, and a good complement to the El Jem Museum!

Relaxing in the marina at Port El Kantao

Twenty minutes or so if things are going well, and you'll have earned the right to relax on your last stopover. Forget the medinas, museums and monuments, Port El Kantaoui is all about beaches, water sports, sea outings, golf and thalassotherapy! And if you're with the family, there's no shortage of amusement parks and water parks... In the evening, it's all about the nightlife in Tunisia's Saint-Tropez!

A thalasso cure to finish on a high note

Many people don't know it, but Tunisia is the world's second-best thalassotherapy destination after France. Mahdia, Monastir, Sousse and Port El Kantaoui all offer thalassotherapy centres. It would be a shame not to take advantage of the opportunity to experience Tunisian expertise in this field... What's more, it's cheaper than in France and slightly more exotic, in a setting worthy of the Thousand and One Nights! A wellness offer in addition to the classic hammams, saunas and massages of all kinds.

Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa Port El Kantaoui Monastir
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Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa Port El Kantaoui

Thalasso with golf and tennis court
8 Very good
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£103 / night
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The 4-star Hasdrubal Thalassa&Spa Port El Kantaoui boasts a huge thalassotherapy centre, just like its cousins in Yasmine Hammamet and Djerba, belonging to the same Hasdrubal hotel group. It's a 5,500 m² temple to well-being, with two seawater pools: one indoor and one outdoor, in addition to the hotel's own huge swimming pool. No fewer than 28 cabins occupy the wet zone, where you can enjoy the benefits of hydro massage, algotherapy, jet showers, rosemary body wraps, etc. The dry zone, with its 18 cabins, is the realm of world massages (especially Thai) and aromatherapy. Hammam, sauna, herbal tea room, beauty area (10 cubicles), hairdressing and fitness complete the offer, with the must-have private spa!

© Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa Port El Kantaoui/booking.com

Practical info

Some practical advice in the souks of Kairouan, Sfax, Mahdia, Sousse and Monastir

Bargaining is a profession! Don't accept the initial price, and try to negotiate as much as possible by setting a maximum amount. This can reduce prices by 20-50%. If you like spices, stock up - they're cheaper than in France. Finally, a word of friendly advice: avoid wearing your hotel bracelet on your wrist in the souks, as you'll immediately be spotted as a pigeon tourist!

by Faustine PEREZ
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