The Canyonlands, diversity and immensity

Welcome to the kingdom of American canyons! The scene is set: a spectacular desert landscape, both lonely and breathtaking... Canyonlands National Park is intriguing. Despite its colossal size (it's the largest in the state, about the size of the Faroe Islands), it receives only a small fraction of the visits made to Utah's other national parks. It symbolises the immensity of the American West, where the landscapes of the Wild West are condensed: rugged landscape, canyons, ridges, desert plains, vegetation and wild animals. It's not the kind of place you can visit in just one day... It could take a lifetime to get to know every corner of this area, which covers 1,366 km 2. Its spaces are so strange and secret that few travellers have ever ventured there. Canyonlands was the muse of nature-loving writer Edward Abbey, who called it "the weirdest, most wonderful, most magical place on earth".

Colorful sunrise at Mesa Arch, Canyonlands National Park near Moab.

- © Edwin Verin / Shutterstock

The Canyonlands story

The Canyonlands are one of the last truly wild corners of the United States. It's a place where you can literally lose yourself. This canyon aspires to independence and freedom with an infinite horizon. This canyon is a real challenge for adventurers and nature lovers.

The history of Canyonlands goes back billions of years. Various nomadic peoples crossed the south-west after the last Ice Age. The two main prehistoric cultures to have originated in the south-west were the Frémont and Ancestral Puebloans.

The sunny spires of Canyonlands National Park.

- © LHBLLC / Shutterstock

Around 1200 AD, there were several villages in the Canyonlands. These people left behind a wealth of artefacts showing the richness of their lives. The park is littered with old dwellings such as Tower Ruin and Salt Creek Canyon. Artefacts such as the Great Gallery Tool provide an insight into human history. Some of the petroglyph panelsare the most impressive in Canyonlands.

In the 1950s, Edward Abbey wandered the canyons of southern Utah, and used the landscape as inspiration for his novel Desert Solitaire. Eventually, the region attracted enough attention within the Department of the Interior to gain support for officially protecting the land. After a lengthy debate in Congress, President Lyndon B. Johnson named it Canyonlands National Park in 1964.

A young hiker stands on the edge of a cliff facing the famous Colorado River.

- © canadastock / Shutterstock

The main defining features of Canyonlands are the two mighty rivers that meet at its centre: the Green and the Colorado. The banks of these rivers form the boundaries of the park's three districts: Island in the Sky (north), The Needles (east) and The Maze (west).

As well as its astonishing geological structure, the park is also home to a fascinating and diverse ecosystem of large and small mammals. Deer, reptiles, cougars, bighorn sheep and black bears can all be seen. Small mammals such as beavers, rats, kangaroos, mice and rabbits are common throughout the park. Finally, there are more than 273 species of birds, including blue herons and falcons in Canyonlands.

The famous Mesa Arch sunrise in Canyonlands National Park.

- © prochasson frederic / Shutterstock

What are the main attractions in the park?

Although Canyonlands is full of opportunities for ambitious adventurers, there are quite a few scenic vistas within easy reach. Most of these are located at Island in the Sky. This area attracts three quarters of the park's visitors mainly because of its ease of access. With a day at Island in the Sky, you can easily hike to Mesa Arch, Upheaval Dome and see Grand View Point.

Canyonlands National Park, the spires and surroundings of Needle Rock in Chester Park

- © Danita Delimont / Shutterstock

Canyonlands stands out among the national parks for its many roads suitable for 4x4 rides. At Island in the Sky, The White Rim Road is a great target for experienced drivers looking to take on a multi-day trail. The road quickly transitions from dirt to gravel, rock and back, and is overall considered moderate.

In The Needles, a 4x4 is almost necessary to see the main sights. Finally The Maze, the shining jewel of the park, is the ultimate destination for hardcore motorists, requiring total autonomy, a complete understanding of the roads and expert-level driving skills.

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The hiking opportunities throughout Canyonlands are almost endless. Particularly in the Needles district, the network of backcountry trails seems almost designed for fantastic journeys. Strolling the trails, backcountry camping areas, there are a plethora of goals to reach such as Chesler Park, Devils Kitchen, Big Spring Canyon, Peekaboo Spring, Angel Arch, Cathedral Butte and the Confluence Overlook.

Breathtaking view of the Island in the Sky

- © Tupungato / Shutterstock

In Island in the Sky, hikes such as the Syncline loop, which crosses the dome, and the Murphy trails are first-rate options, while The Maze requires a little more experience due to the complexity of the terrain.

The Colorado River, which flows through Canyonlands National Park, is located near the town of Moab.

- © Scott Prokop / Shutterstock

Canyonlands is also great for rock climbing, particularly in the Sky District, and river rafting.

There are also plenty of options for cycling and mountain biking through Canyonlands. The multi-day White Rim Road is one of the most scenic routes in southern Utah. The shorter trails through The Needles can also be cycled.

Sandstone monuments in Canyonlands National Park

- © Jnjphotos / Shutterstock

Practical information

👛 Entrance fee: $30 per car - ticket valid for seven days.

Visitor centre and opening hours: canyonlands is open all year round, 24 hours a day, but the park's visitor centres close for the winter.

by Jude JONES
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