In the footsteps of Moses at Madaba and Mount Nebo

Situated 33 kilometres south-west of Amman, the mosaic capital, Madaba is a city steeped in biblical history. It was conquered by the tribes of Israel, then recaptured and rebuilt by Mesha, king of Moab, in the 9th century BC, as attested by its stele in the Louvre. The city owes its golden age to the Byzantine archbishops, who oversaw the construction of the churches and their decoration. Even today, Madaba is home to a large Christian community (mostly Greek Orthodox). Don't miss the Greek Orthodox church of St George, famous for its mosaic depicting the map of Palestine. Around ten kilometres from Madaba, Mount Nebo is the presumed site of Moses' tomb, where he is thought to have died at the age of 120. One thing is certain: this hill, which rises to an altitude of 817 metres, has been much written about and plays an important biblical role.

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The Greek Orthodox Church of Saint George in Madaba

Situated in the heart of the small town of Madaba, just thirty kilometres fromAmman, theGreek Orthodox church of Saint George hides a secret that historians consider priceless: the Madaba mosaic, known as the oldest surviving cartographic representation of the Holy Land, and in particular of Jerusalem and the Decapolis (the territory of Palestine which, in Greco-Roman times, comprised ten towns around Lake Tiberias and on the banks of the Jordan River).

The mosaic at St George's Church in Madaba.

- © WitR / Shutterstock

It dates from the end of the 6th century. It is a unique document, both for its geographical accuracy, with 150 places mentioned, and for its Christian symbolism.

What else can you see in Madaba?

While the Greek Orthodox Church of St George and its splendid mosaic are Madaba's main attraction, there are many other things to see, starting with the Archaeological Park, which also preserves two beautiful mosaic panels: the one in the "Hall of Hippolytus" is well worth a visit! As you stroll through the city, you won't want to miss the golden roof of the King Hussein Mosque.

King Hussein's mosque in Madaba.

- © jayaibe / Shutterstock

There are also remains of the Roman town and the foundations of rich Byzantine residences. Finally, the Church of the Holy Apostles houses a superb mosaic featuring the Goddess of the Sea in the central medallion. The bell tower of theChurch of St John the Baptist offers a 360° panoramic view of the whole city.

Mount Nebo

Presumed to be the site of Moses' tomb, Mount Nebo is best explored early in the morning. With the sky still clear, you can contemplate the formidable panorama of the Jordan depression and the Dead Sea, before the strong evaporation of its waters plunges the landscape into a compact mist. In the distance, on the hills of Judea, you can sometimes make out the heights of Jerusalem.

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The Memorial of Moses, one of the most venerated sanctuaries in Jordan, consists of the remains of the basilica built by the monks in the 6th century, which incorporated older buildings. The choir belonged to the first church (with three apses) built in the 4th century, in memory of Moses.

The baptistery-diaconicon contains the most beautiful of the mosaics, a veritable lesson in early Christian iconography dated 530, depicting rural scenes. Another baptistery also features a pretty mosaic band alternating between sheep and fruit trees, while the chapel of the Theotokos, dedicated to the Mother of God, has preserved a pavement depicting gazelles, bulls and Christian symbols.

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Practical information for Madaba and Mount Nebo

Madaba and Mount Nebo are two important sites for Christians, but also for history and archaeology buffs, who will be sure to pay a visit on their next trip to Jordan. Plan a half-day visit by combining the two.

⏰ Timetable for St George's Church and Mount Nebo

St George's Church is open every day, from 8am to 5pm from November to March and until 6pm from April to October. Services are held every Friday between 9.30am and 5pm.

Mount Nebo is also open every day and its opening times vary according to the season: from 8am to 4pm in December and January, until 5pm between November and March and until 6pm between April and October.

👛 Prices for St George's Church and Mount Nebo

St George's Church:

  • Full price: 1 JOD
  • Under 12s: free

Mount Nebo:

  • Full price: 3 JOD

👉 Both sites are not included in the Jordan Pass.

The view from Mount Nebo.

- © INTREEGUE Photography / Shutterstock

🚗 How do I get to Madaba and Mount Nebo?

It's only 30 kilometres to Madaba from Amman, along the Old Kings' Road ( Route 35). It is possible to take public buses, which leave from one of Amman's three bus stations when they are full, so there is no set timetable. The most efficient solution is to take a car or taxi. Allow around 15 JOD for the journey.

Mount Nebo is located on the outskirts of Madaba, a 15-minute drive via Al-Quds Street. It is not served by public transport.

A few tips for your visit

  • Please respect the silence and switch off your mobile phone before entering the churches (or put it on silent). Proper attire is also required.
  • Mount Nebo can be climbed on foot from the Dead Sea in a hike of around six hours.
by Jude JONES
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