Discover Jordan's desert castles

Built by the Umayyad caliphs, mainly in the first half of the 8th century, these sumptuous fortified palaces, with their hammams and refined decor, were above all places of rest and pleasure. The Umayyad caliphs were returning to the way of life of their nomadic ancestors, with hunting, banquets and poetic jousting. But their role was also strategic: by organising hunting parties for Bedouin chiefs in the desert, followed by prestigious receptions, the sovereign ensured theallegiance of the nomadic tribes, and therefore the security of the Empire.

As for the caravanserais built into these residences, they were used to protect the caravans travelling through the immense Umayyad Empire stretching from Cordoba to the Indus. At the time, dams held back the water from the wadis and helped to maintain the gardens, miracles of greenery in the heart of one of the world's most arid deserts.

While many desert castles have now been destroyed, here is a list of the best-preserved and therefore best-known:

• Qasr Al-Qastal, about 25 kilometres south ofAmman
• Qasr Al-Muwaqqar, about 30 kilometres south of Amman
• Qasr Mushatta, around 35 kilometres south-east of Amman
• Qasr Hammam Assarah, around 55 kilometres north-east of Amman
• Qasr Hallabat, around 60 kilometres north-east of Amman
• Qasr Kharana, about 65 kilometres east of Amman
• Qusayr Amra, about 85 kilometres east of Amman
• Qasr Tuba, about 95 kilometres south-east of Amman
• Qasr Azraq, about 100 kilometres east of Amman

It's perfectly possible to visit Jordan' s desert castles on your own, as they are virtually all located in the same geographical area, to the east of Amman. With your hire car, all you have to do is take route 40 and then return via route 30 to form a loop. The desert landscapes you pass as you drive towards Iraq are breathtaking! You can also use an agency to visit the castles of the desert without getting carried away.

Focus on Qusayr Amra

Built in the early days of Islam by Caliph Walid I in the early 8th century, Qusayr Amra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the highlight of the tour.

At the entrance, you will see the remains of the hydraulic system where one of the norias has been reassembled. The audience room and the hammam have preserved paintings depicting human figures, which are very rare in Islamic art. In all, 250 figures and numerous animals illustrate the themes of the court, hunting, crafts, daily life and mythology. This desert castle was both a fortress with a garrison and a holiday residence for the Umayyad caliphs.

Zoom on the Qasr Kharana

Also built under the caliphate of Walid I, the Qasr Kharana is an imposing edifice with a defensive function, unlike the other castles. Its quadrangular layout, high walls pierced only by loopholes and four corner towers bear witness to this. On the ground floor, on either side of the vestibule, were the storerooms and stables for the camels, while the flats were spread out in each wing of the building, around the central courtyard.

Zoom on the Qasr Mushatta

The Qasr Mushatta, the largest of the Umayyad castles, remains unfinished. The wall surrounding the central building, reinforced by twenty-three semi-cylindrical towers, once measured 144 metres on each side. A few fragments of the sculpted plaster decoration remain today, most of which is preserved in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin.

Don't miss out on discovering the desert castles on your next trip to Jordan! Allow at least half a day to visit them, or a full day if you want to visit several without rushing.

👛 Desert castles prices

• Qasr Kharana, Qusayr Amra and Qasr Azraq: 3 JOD for all three.
• Qasr Hallabat: free
• Qasr Mushatta: free
• Qasr Al-Qastal: free
• Qasr Al-Muwaqqar: free of charge
• Qasr Hammam Assarah: free of charge
• Qasr Tuba: free

Good to know: all visits are covered by the Jordan Pass, a tourist package specially designed for visitors to the country.

⏰ Desert castles opening times

The Desert Castles are open from 8am to 4pm from November to April and from 8am to 6pm from May to October.