Journey into the past at the ancient site of Jerash

Petra is not the only site in Jordan that takes visitors on a journey in the footsteps of vanished civilisations. Around fifty kilometres north of Amman, Ancient Gerasa is one of the finest examples of Eastern Roman architecture. Founded at the beginning of the 3rd century BC, then integrated into the Hellenistic confederation of the Decapolis, the city reached its apogee during the Roman era, under the Severan dynasty (3rd century AD). It was one of the ten most prestigious cities of the Roman Golden Age. Today, Jerash boasts a large number of ancient monuments, many of them very well preserved, including the hippodrome, the oval forum and the temples of Zeus and Artemis. With a little imagination, you can imagine Roman centurions, followed by legionnaires bent under the weight of their armour and gladiators, running through the ancient hippodrome on the track of victorious chariots. A real journey back in time!

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The history of Jerash

Jerash has been inhabited since Neolithic times, but it was not until the reign of Alexander the Great that it really began to develop, reaching its apogee in the 3rd century. As a central trading point between the West and the East, it became part of the Decapolis. But the development of maritime trade and disputes over Roman hegemony caused the city to lose its prestige.

The Cardo maximus at Jerash.

- © lkpro / Shutterstock

When Christianity tried to establish itself in the region, many temples were destroyed by the Byzantines and converted into churches. Occupied in turn by the Sassanids, the Arabs and the Crusaders, Ancient Gerasa went into steep decline and gradually fell into oblivion. Sand eventually covered the city, which disappeared from the maps for several centuries before being rediscovered in 1806 by the German explorer Ulrich Seltzen.

What to see in Jerash

The ancient site of Jerash is one of the best preserved archaeological sites in Jordan. The ancient city contains a wealth of remains that seem to have remained virtually untouched by time. The Cardo maximus is Jerash's main thoroughfare. This wide colonnaded avenue, 800 metres long, serves the site's main monuments. It is entered through the impressive Hadrian's Arch, a gateway 37 metres wide and 13 metres high. Look closely at the ground - you can still see the wheel tracks of the chariots!

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A little further on, the Place Ovale is a sacred esplanade. Built between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, it is exceptional for its elliptical shape, its decoration and its concentrically arranged stone paving. Every year, during the Jerash festival, a flame is lit on the plinth at the centre of the square.

The Temple of Artemis and its propylaea are the highlight of any visit to Jerash. Built in 150 AD, it was dedicated to the goddess of hunting and fertility, protector of the city. It was the centre of social and spiritual life in ancient Gerasa. The building is miraculously well preserved, with 11 of the original 12 Corinthian columns still standing. History tells us that many sacrifices were performed within its walls...

The Temple of Artemis in Jerash.

- © Hamdan Yoshida / Shutterstock

Much smaller than Rome's Circus Maximus, theJerash hippodrome** nevertheless has 10 gates, original stone seats for spectators and is surrounded by olive hedges. Originally, it was 245 metres long and 51 metres wide and could accommodate almost 15,000 people. It is still used today for theatrical performances.

The Southern Theater of Jerash.

- © ecstk22 / Shutterstock

Ancient Gerasa boasts two Roman theatres, both of which were major entertainment venues at the time. The North Theatre, built by Emperor Marcus Aurelius in 165, has just 14 rows of seats but a remarkable portico! The South Theatre, with its beautiful Corinthian-style stage wall, is still used today as a stage for the Jerash Festival. It was built in the year 90 and can hold up to 5,000 spectators.

While you're in Jerash, don't miss the ancient market halls, the temple of Zeus built on a hill overlooking the city, and the nymphaeum, a monumental fountain!

Our favourite hotel in Jerash

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Practical information for Jerash

Antique Gerasa is a historic site that will enthral history buffs and pique the curiosity of more leisurely visitors. Allow half a day to visit the site, taking your time.

⏰ Timetable for the Ancient Gerasa site

The Jerash archaeological site is open every day from 8am to 4pm from November to March, until 5.30pm in April and May and until 6pm during the summer. It opens at 8.30am during Ramadan.

👛 Prices for the Antique Gerasa site

  • Full price: 10 JOD

👉 A visit to the Jerash archaeological site is covered by the Jordan Pass, a tourist package specially tailored for visitors to the country that also includes your Jordan entry visa.

The ruins of Jerash with the modern city in the background.

- © evenfh / Shutterstock

🚗 How do I get to Jerash?

Jerash is about an hour's drive fromAmman** via Route 35**, which is nicknamed the Road of Kings.

You can take a bus to Jerash from Amman or from the airport. The journey costs €6 and the bus runs every hour.

More expensive, but also more practical, a taxi is still the most pleasant option, with nothing to worry about for around €65 (prices vary between €50 and €75).

A few tips for your visit

  • Part of the site is accessible to people with reduced mobility.
  • Although Jerash is famous for its Roman remains, it is also a modern city: don't hesitate to explore its mosque and markets.
by Lena COLLINS
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