Petra, the impressive Nabataean city

The magical city of Petra is a must-see in Jordan. Located 280 kilometres south-west of Amman on the Kings' Highway, Petra is without doubt the most grandiose site in the entire Near East, a World Heritage Site and considered one of the new wonders of the world. Here you are in the ancient capital and necropolis of the Nabataeans, nomads who probably originated in northern Arabia and became wealthy through the incense and spice trade. The city, which boasts no fewer than eight hundred monuments, is set in a gigantic rocky cirque, a veritable mineral chaos that has emerged from the mists of time. Carved and sculpted into vertiginous red sandstone cliffs, the monumental facades of the tombs and funerary monuments seem to defy eternity... and the visitor. This rock architecture, where Eastern, Egyptian and Greco-Roman influences blend with local traditions, is a fascinating lesson in art history.

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A city thousands of years old...

"Unless you visit Petra, you'll never know what it's like. Just know that until you see it, you won't have the slightest idea of how beautiful a place can be."

Lawrence of Arabia

It was thanks to Johann Ludwig Burckhardt's first expedition in 1812 that the Western world discovered Petra. After several unsuccessful attempts, the man nicknamed Sheikh Ibrahim managed to enter the lost ruins of Wadi Musa disguised as a Bedouin.

While it seems unthinkable today that such a site would have remained unknown to the rest of the world for so long, there are several reasons for its exclusivity. The few written traces found at Petra favour a much less precise oral transmission. In addition, the political instability in the region at the beginning of the 19th century did not favour excavations.

The Deir - or Monastery - of Petra.

- © Punnawit Suwattananun / Shutterstock

The origins of the Nabataeans, the nomadic people who built the largest part of Petra, are uncertain. They are thought to have originated either in the south, in Yemen, or in the north, in what is now Saudi Arabia. They settled in Petra from the 6th century onwards and built up a veritable trading empire.

This people dominated the region from Petra to Sinai, via the Negev, the Hauran massif in Syria and part of Saudi Arabia for several centuries. Petra is also an unrivalled stronghold, a refuge, ideal for hiding booty or for defending oneself easily in the event of an attack.

Two young Bedouins and their donkey in Petra.

- © Elena Diego / Shutterstock

Today, the descendants of these Nabataeans, most of whom have been rehoused in the new town (only a few diehards remain, settled in less touristy corners), make their living from the trade generated by the exploitation of Petra. Extremely proud of their origins, before being Jordanian, they claim to be descendants of the Nabataeans.

What to do in Petra

The Siq and the Khazneh

The highlights of Petra are the Siq and the Khazneh. The narrow red sandstone gorge, whose cliffs are often 100 metres high, is the only way into the site. This winding gorge leads to Petra's most famous monument: el Khazneh, otherwise known as the "Treasury", a commemorative monument, probably dedicated to a Nabataean queen or king.

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Your visa and entry to Petra combined in the Jordan Pass!

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The masterly façade of this Greco-Roman-inspired "tomb-temple" is truly the most memorable souvenir of a trip to Jordan. The interior of the monument is surprisingly simple: three doors open onto the cells used to hold the tombs.

The lower city

The theatre, the cardo maximus and the Qasr el Bint, the largest temple in the Lower City, remain from the heart of the ancient city. At the foot of the Khubta cliff are some of Petra's masterpieces: don't miss the huge Urn Tomb, converted into a church in the 5th century AD, and the Tiered Tomb, whose 46-metre-high facade beats all records.

The Royal Tombs of Petra.

- © Yasemin Olgunoz Berber / Shutterstock

The high place of Zibb Attuf

Situated on a rocky outcrop, the Zibb Attuf site is an open-air place of worship where sacrifices were made. After a 40-minute ascent, you can enjoy fantastic panoramic views. After the Nabataean cult installations, continue along the path back down into the valley: this route leads to some of the most interesting tombs and tricliniums (funeral banquet halls) in Petra, including the Tomb of the Roman Soldier and the triclinium opposite.

The Deir

The Deir - or Monastery - of Petra.

- © Lana Kray / Shutterstock

After a 45-minute climb through gorges and sumptuous ravines, we reach the Deir, known as the "Monastery", one of the two most famous buildings in Petra. Carved out of a yellow sandstone rock, this early 2nd century religious monument boasts a colossal façade (42 metres high, 45 metres wide), topped by a gigantic funerary urn, over 9 metres high. With its broken pediment framing the tholos (circular temple), it is reminiscent of the façade of the Khazneh, but its decoration is more sober.

Ten minutes from the Deir, at the end of the mountain range, you will reach the Mecca of the Araba: the rocky promontory offers an exceptional view of the Araba valley and the Negev beyond. A panorama not to be missed.

See the Treasury illuminated by a thousand candles in Petra by night

Petra by night, le Trésor comme vous ne l’avez jamais vu.

- © Maurizio De Mattei / Shutterstock

Three times a week, at dusk, the site is covered in thousands of candles. In the darkness, you stroll through the Siq, the narrow red sandstone canyon that leads to the Khazneh, lit only by candlelight... the spectacle is as striking as it is solemn.

Our favourite hotel near Petra

Petra Guest House Hotel 4* Jordan
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Petra Guest House Hotel 4*

This luxurious 4* hotel is just a stone's throw from the entrance to Petra! We love its troglodyte bar-restaurant!
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Practical information for Petra

👉 How long should you allow for Petra?

One day will give you a good overview of Petra and allow you to discover the Siq, the Treasury and the Lower City. We recommend that youspend at least two days there to visit the main monuments without running around. Even so, three days won't be too much if you want to discover the Nabataean city in depth.

👛 Price of Petra

  • Price for 1 day: 50 JOD
  • Price for 2 days: 55 JOD
  • Rate for 3 days: 60 JOD
  • Price for 1 day for people not staying in Jordan: 90 JOD

Good to know: entry to Petra is included in the Jordan Pass, which combines your Jordanian visa with access to over 40 sites in Jordan!

⏰ Petra opening times

The Petra site is open every day, from 6am to 4pm in winter and until 6pm in summer.

🚗 How do I get to Petra?

Petra is a three-hour drive fromAmman on the desert road(route 15), or four hours on the majestic and picturesque Kings' Highway(route 35). Taxis cost around 85 JOD. A JETT bus leaves Abdali station in Amman at 6.30am and arrives in Petra at around 9.30am for 10 JOD. It leaves the same day at 5pm in summer and 4pm in winter.

From Aqaba, it takes two hours by car via routes 15 and 35, and a taxi costs around 75 JOD. A JETT bus leaves Aqaba at 8am and arrives in Petra around 11am for 15 JOD.

The Garden Hall in Petra.

- © Oleg Znamenskiy / Shutterstock

🗓️ When to visit Petra?

Temperatures in Petra vary moderately throughout the year. They fluctuate around 19°C. However, you should avoid going in February, the coldest month, with temperatures between 10 and 12°C. The best time to visit is between May and October.In August, however,temperatures can easily reach 30°C.

A few tips for your visit

  • Petra opens at 6am, so there are two or three good reasons to start your visit at dawn: you'll avoid the heat and the crowds of tourists, and above all, you'll see the monuments in their best light.
  • The site limits its visitors to 5,000 a day, although it could accommodate twice that number given the size of the estate!
  • Remember to take good shoes, especially if you climb to the monastery and the High Place of Sacrifice.
  • The Bedouins offer tourists the chance to climb the different parts of the site on donkeys, but we advise you to avoid this in the interests of animal welfare.
  • The toilets are free! If you are asked to pay, go deep into the site to find others.
  • It is now possible to hire an electric cart to take you up the Siq to the Treasury and back for 25 JOD per person round trip, making this part of the site accessible to PRMs without the need for animals.
by Jude JONES
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