Lima: 2 days to discover Peru's bohemian capital

Starting the day in Miraflores

As soon as you arrive at the airport, Lima sets the tone with its 'Welcome to Peru' posters featuring symbols of the country, such as alpacas, bulls, surfing, palm trees, paragliding and numerous monuments. Before embarking on a road trip to the mythical sites of Peru, it was impossible not to visit the capital. For two days, Lima will be full of surprises, with its historic monuments, parks, museums and archaeological sites right in the heart of the city.

As you walk along the Pacific coast to the Miraflores district, you will see a cross overlooking the city. It was erected to commemorate the visit of John Paul II in 1988. It stands out from the top of a hill in Miraflores and offers a sparkling backdrop at night when it is illuminated.

Kennedy Park and its hundred or so cats

Miraflores is one of the city's most exclusive yet secure districts. It's the ideal place to stay in Lima for a few days, as it's home to a large number of hotels. After dropping off our luggage at the Casa Andina Select hotel, we headed for Kennedy Park, just a few minutes away on foot. Located in the middle of the main avenues littered with shops and boutiques, Kennedy Park is the kingdom of cats. Volunteers and local residents look after the felines, feeding and caring for them.

It's a great place to go in the morning, when it's quieter, to enjoy a Peruvian coffee on a bench and soak up the atmosphere of the waking capital. During the day and evening, you'll find street entertainment, craftspeople and shops open until 10pm. It's a gathering place for families, couples and groups of friends. Around the park, restaurants, cafés and cocktail bars mean you can enjoy the area at any time of day.

Huaca Pucllana, an archaeological site in the middle of the city

The Huaca Pucllana archaeological site is right in the heart of the city and the Miraflores district. This pre-Inca site proves that there's more to Peru than Machu Picchu. It is a pyramid that has nothing to envy the Egyptians. Built by the people of Lima between the 1st and 6th centuries, it is composed of adobe stones laid vertically, a technique that prevents seismic activity. This shows the ingenuity of the people at that time. Other civilisations have appropriated the site, right up to the Incas, and its functions have been diverse and varied. Huaca Pucllana served as an administrative centre, a trading post and a ceremonial site where sacrifices were performed.

In 2013, a Huari tomb was discovered in the pyramid, containing the mummies of two people. During your visit, you will be able to see a reproduction of the tomb, as well as discovering the daily life of the inhabitants through representations of scenes from their lives, with figures dressed in traditional costumes. Dating back more than 1,600 years, the site was discovered under a mound that served as a football pitch for the locals. Since then, excavations have been ongoing. The best way to learn more about civilisations is to visit with a guide.

For a taste of Peruvian cuisine, head for lunch atLa Mar Cebicheria, a must in Lima. This is one of the restaurants run by Gaston Acurio, the most famous Peruvian chef in South America. In this open-air restaurant, the speciality is fish. Cooked in a variety of ways, it is prepared in front of the customers, with the kitchen open to the dining room. Among the typical dishes, it's impossible not to mention the crab causa, a starter based on potato, crab and avocado, and the ceviche of the day, marinated in lemon juice, a Peruvian favourite. Here, groups of friends, colleagues and couples come together to share a convivial moment in a simple yet chic atmosphere. Cevicherias are usually only open for lunch, to preserve the freshness of the fish, but La Mar does not break with tradition, as the restaurant closes at 5pm.

A stroll through Parque del Amor

Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the Parque del Amor is dedicated to all lovers. Locals and tourists alike can sit on the colourful mosaic benches to contemplate the panoramic view from the top of the cliff. As you stroll along, take the time to read the quotes and phrases from Peruvian poets and writers. Among the authors, Jorge Dias Herrera and Augusto Tamayo Vargas are represented by their romantic phrases.

In the middle of the small park, a 12-metre-high sculpture stands out as the true symbol of the place. Called "El Beso", it represents two people embracing and kissing. It is a powerful and majestic message by none other than Victor Delfin, a Peruvian painter and sculptor who is very well known in South America. You can also take a stroll through the avenues of the tree-lined park and head for the seafront. Next to the park, a French café plays music outside and offers customers a crêpe to savour this moment of freedom.

End of the day in the bohemian district of Barranco.

Just a short drive away, the Barranco district is the perfect place to stroll at the end of the day. With its colourful walls, facades covered in street art, art galleries and street musicians playing live music, Barranco has all the makings of a bohemian neighbourhood. In the square, you can admire a statue of Maria Isabel Granda, also known as Chabuca Granda, one of Peru's most adored singers. While strolling through the streets, take a look at the historic buildings, such as the La Ermita church and its yellow façade, which, although abandoned since an earthquake, is a landmark in the district.

Before closing time, head for Jade Riveira's gallery. The Peruvian artist exhibits all over the world and many of his street art works have been created on the walls of the district, all of which are designed to make you think about the world, society and personal relationships. There is also a museum shop near the Pont des Soupirs, ideal for buying a reproduction of one of his paintings.

After a day full of discoveries, it's time to go for dinner and enjoy the bohemian atmosphere of the Barranco district. This is where the party's in full swing, at Café Victoria, a cocktail bar and restaurant housed in a former colonial mansion. With its majestic setting, festive atmosphere and delicious cocktails, we can't recommend you enough!

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Morning in the historic centre

This new day begins with a visit to Lima's historic centre, home to the capital's most important and oldest monuments. Most of the buildings date from the 18th century, and were constructed after the 1746 earthquake. They all revolve around the Plaza Mayor, also known as the Plaza de Armas, and the Plaza San Martin, which is symbolically worth a visit as it was here that the city of Lima was founded at the time of the Spanish conquest, and there are also buildings dating back to the pre-Inca period.

Let's start with Lima Cathedral, built in the 16th century and renovated in the 19th. As soon as you enter, you'll be impressed by its architecture, which blends different styles, from Baroque to neo-classical. It has 14 chapels depicting different periods through paintings and decorations. One of the most impressive is at the entrance, depicting the life of Pizarro. The Spanish conqueror is buried in a tomb in the cathedral. It's impossible not to be captivated by the building's ornamentation, such as its main nave and its altar made of wood and gold leaf.

It would take more than a day to visit all the buildings in the historic centre, but you can simply stroll around to admire the colonial architecture of the buildings, some of which, like the archbishop's palace, have large wooden balconies. A little further on, 5 minutes away, head for the Santo Domingo convent. This is one of the places not to be missed on a visit to Lima. When you arrive, you'll be fascinated by the church and its pink colour, then as you enter, the visit continues towards the cloisters and their galleries leading to different rooms. It's a haven of peace where you won't feel the heat of the outside world. Admire the cloister gardens, the fountain and the azulejos decorating the walls and beams of the galleries.

After contemplating the many colourful buildings and their wooden balconies, it's time to take a breather over a real Peruvian coffee. You can also stock up on souvenirs in the adjoining shop.

Lunch and visit to the Larco Museum

At lunchtime, we head to the Pueblo Libre district to visit the Larco Museum restaurant. The restaurant has a terrace overlooking a garden in which the bougainvilleas offer a festival of colours.

The menu is varied and the typical dishes are carefully prepared and presented. Fried squid, tuna causa, refreshing desserts, local fruit juices and pisco sour, you can sample all the Peruvian specialities.

The museum retraces the life of the pre-Inca civilisations through objects, pottery and ornaments from the Moche, Chimu, Huari and other cultures. In all, 5,000 years of history are represented in this museum, which was founded in 1926. As you wander through the galleries and different rooms, you will gain a better understanding of the rites and customs of the ancient peoples, as well as their daily lives through work and human relationships. Allow around 2 hours for the visit.

Cocktail demonstration at the end of the day

To end your stay on the best possible note, head to Hôtel B for a cocktail demonstration. This Relais & Châteaux establishment dazzles with its Belle Epoque architecture and bohemian spirit, similar to the Barranco district.

Cocktails are so famous in Peru that we were curious to find out how they are made. Workshops are organised at Hotel B to help you make your own typical recipes. The star of Peruvian cocktails is the Pisco Sour. It's made with grape liqueur, lime, bitter angostura and egg white. A delicious drink to be enjoyed in moderation, and one that Peruvians are happy to share with tourists.

On the roof of the hotel, bartender Axel Romero demonstrates 4 cocktails, which he accompanies with sweet or savoury mignardises depending on the recipe. On this terrace, you can admire the sunset while enjoying a beautifully presented drink set to music. On this last evening, Lima definitely won us over.

For more information, contact the Peru Tourist Office.