The Humantay mountain lake

To the west of Cuzco, in the Vilcabamba mountain range, Lake Humantay (Laguna Humantay), situated at an altitude of 4,200m between the Humantay (5,473m) and Salkantay (6,270m) peaks, is one of the most beautiful lakes in the Andes. This striking lake is formed by the melting of the surrounding glaciers, and its turquoise-blue colour is due to the presence of minerals in the water (calcium and magnesium).

Lake Humantay and Humantay Mountain are considered sacred by the local population, who come here to worship. This day trip, with or without a tour operator, on foot or accompanied by a horse, is a must, as the route is as spectacular as the destination: between hills, very high mountains and streams you will come across vicuñas, llamas, alpacas and if you are really lucky you may catch a glimpse of the giant Andean condor, whose wings can reach up to 3m.

Lac Humantay

- © Creative Family / Shutterstock

Getting to Lake Humantay

With a tour operator

Of course, this is the simplest solution, but it may also be the most tiring, as you'll be getting up at around 3am, but this excursion is really worth it!

Here's an outline of a typical day:

Departure around 4am from your hotel in Cuzco by van or minibus to Mollepata.

Breakfast in Mollepata. Transport to Soraypampa.

A 3km uphill walk leads to Lake Humantay, approximately 1? hours.

Lunch at Mollepata before returning to Cuzco at the end of the day.

Price from €44, including breakfast and lunch and English or Spanish guide.

Condor des Andes

- © SL-Photography / Shutterstock

Getting to the lake on your own

In Cuzco, you should get to the Arcopata bus terminal

on the corner of Av. Apurimac and Ca 09 de Diciembre, Cuzco

(to the west of the Plaza de Armas)

Take a bus to Mollepata for around €4

After 90km and 2 hours you will arrive in the village of Mollepata

where you can take a colectivo or taxi in the direction of Soraypampa for 1 hour, about €13, negotiable.

The walk to Lake Humantay

The hike starts at the Soraypampa community at 3800m altitude. The short but steep climb is 3km long, with a difference in altitude of almost 400m. Depending on the profile of the hikers, it can take from 1 to 3 hours, and although it presents no real difficulties apart from the "soroche" or altitude sickness, you will be offered the chance to hire horses.

Lake Humantay hike

- © Curioso.Photography / Shutterstock

The inhabitants of the Soraypampa community offer horses for hire at the start of the hike to Lake Humantay. Around €30 to negotiate on the spot, this is a really practical solution for the less athletic and for children, as the climb can be difficult for them.

Can I swim in the lake?

No !

First of all, given that the lake is fed by glaciers, it goes without saying that the water is very cold (between 0°C and 10°C).

What's more, this mountain water flows through the lake and supplies drinking water to the communities and animals in the valley below.

What's more, if you can't swim, you can drink the water unless you're sensitive.

Last but not least, the mountain and lake are sacred places for the local people.

Around the lake you will see small stone mounds: the apachetas in homage to the earth goddess Pachamama and the mountain gods, the Apus.

The locals also come to make offerings with three coca leaves into which they blow a prayer (Kintu).

Lac Humantay

- © Kelley McQuesten / Shutterstock

Where to stay near Lake Humantay?

in Mollepata :

Tilcafé Bed & Breakfast

Calle Crucero S/N Mollepata, Anta, Mollepata

Located in Mollepata, very close to the collectivos to Soraypampa, you'll gain a few precious hours of sleep.

Tilcafé Bed & Breakfast has a garden and terrace.

Approximately €35 including breakfast for a double room.

Tilcafé Bed & Breakfast Cuzco
Booking.com

Tilcafé Bed & Breakfast

The rooms in this guest house have a terrace with garden views.
9 Fabulous
From
£32 / night
Book

in Soraypampa :

There are several lodges on site, most of which don't have internet, so call them to book.

The Soraypampa Hostel is a small lodge with a few "wooden hut" rooms right at the start of the hike: you'll be the first to set off on the trail to Lake Humantay in the early morning, avoiding all the groups.

Tel: +51 913 298 630

Salkantay Hostel Cuzco

Salkantay Hostel

Featuring a garden, restaurant and bar, Salkantay Hostel is located in Santa Teresa, 36 km from Huayna Picchu.
From
£47
Book

Going further: the Salkantay Trek

The Salkantay trek is a very difficult 72 km trek that links Cuzco to Machu Picchu via the Salkantay pass at an altitude of around 4,700 metres over 5 to 7 days.

It is a less-frequented and far more demanding alternative to the "Inca Trail" trek to Machu Picchu.

If you choose to embark on this adventure, you should be aware that it takes you past Lake Humantay, the Salkantay mountains, the archaeological site of Llactapata, tropical forests and waterfalls to reach the "Lost City of the Incas", Machu Picchu.

A must-do with a guide.

To Salkantay Mountain, Peru

- © Scott Biales DitchTheMap / Shutterstock
by Jude JONES
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