Visit the Antwerp beguinage, a breath of fresh air in the heart of the city

Antwerp, Belgium's most dynamic and cosmopolitan city, has been a magnet for art for centuries. Here, painters, sculptors, designers and other artists have found boundless inspiration to explore their talents for centuries. From the great Flemish masters such as Rubens to the most talented architects of the 20th century, this beautiful port city promotes itself as modern, eclectic, inclusive and ultra hip. Yet for all its attractions, it's not the most visited city in Belgium. And wrongly so! Indeed, Antwerp is a little bit between two worlds. Between the city's magnificent architecture, which goes from classical baroque to art nouveau, bearing witness to the city's prosperous eras, and the very "young" side of the fashionable districts. It's a journey between eras. What's more, Flanders has something you won't see anywhere else: the beguinage, a religious movement typical of northern Belgium and Holland!

© T.W. van Urk / Shutterstock

"Begijnhof" in Dutch, the beguinage spread across northern Europe, mainly in Belgium and the Netherlands. The movement began in the 12th century. It was formed, most often by women, although a few men were also part of certain beguinages, in a community known at the time as "the beguines". The beguines, who were mainly single women or widows, submitted to the monastic rules. However, and this is the attraction of the beguinage, they do not take their vows. It is therefore an autonomous, lay community that is not dependent on the clergy, even though its members devote their entire lives to religion. However, the various beguinages attracted the wrath of the Church, which took a dim view of the independence of the beguines, who were often accused of false piety.

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These independent women lived independently thanks to donations from wealthy philanthropists. They looked after the sick, did weaving work and, of course, prayed. Not to mention that the beguines were free to leave the beguinage. The main aim was to live in community. For many, this choice of lifestyle was an alternative to forced marriage, while at the same time giving them the opportunity to free themselves from taking their vows. Beguines were recognisable by their distinctive clothing, including a headdress. Anecdotally, the expression "to have a crush" owes its origin to the beguines. Legend has it that beguines had a kind of power to awaken the call of God in pious women. Around the 16th century, the expression "to have a crush in reverse" was coined, meaning to turn away from one's pious life for love. Over time, this expression evolved into the meaning we know today: to have your heart set on someone else.

Vue aérienne du béguinage d’Anvers

- © Chedko / Shutterstock

In the 13th century, Belgium counted up to 90 beguinages across the country. A beguinage was a community of houses grouped in an enclosure around a church. Some large towns, such as Liège, had more than 20 beguinage communities. The Antwerp beguinage was also founded in the 13th century, and by the 18th century had more than 150 women. During the French Revolution, it was completely desecrated and partly demolished by the Antwerp municipality. The rest of the beguinage was then converted into housing. Belgium was once home to some magnificent, large-scale beguinages. Bruges and Ghent are home to the most beautiful communities. Although rejected by the Church for some time, the beguinage was recognised as a "third order", an association of religious who did not take their vows. Over the course of the Middle Ages, the institution declined and virtually disappeared during the Renaissance.

Dernière extension du béguinage d’Anvers

- © Adrie Oosterwijk / Shutterstock

Antwerp's first beguinage was founded outside the city in 1240 and enjoyed a very long period of prosperity. However, in 1540, the city council decided to burn down the beguinage to prevent it from being used as a base by enemy forces. It was then rebuilt in its current location. As you can see, the beguinage is part of Belgium's heritage, and more specifically Flemish heritage. It's a unique feature that you won't find anywhere else. Antwerp is a fascinating city because it is modern, trendy, forward-looking and full of projects. At the same time, its cultural and architectural heritage bears witness to a rich history that remains engraved in the city walls.

A tour of the beguinage takes you through a fascinating maze of narrow streets lined with picturesque brick houses that are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites (as are all the Flemish beguinages, for that matter). You enter through a monumental baroque portico, surmounted by a statue of the beguine saint, Saint Begge. Despite their desacralisation imposed by the French Revolution, the beguines of Antwerp continued to live in faith until the end of the 20th century. Virginie Laeremans, Antwerp's last beguine, died in 1986. While the premises are now inhabited by ordinary people, the houses are jealously guarded in this green and peaceful setting in the heart of the city. It's the ideal place for a timeless break between two visits to one of the most dynamic cities in the flat country.

Practical information

⏰ Open every day from 8am to 6pm.

Don't forget that the Antwerp beguinage is not a museum like the one in Bruges, and that people live there all year round. So please respect their peace and quiet.

by Jude JONES
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